One new tire

[gandalf]

A couple months ago I blew a rear tire and bent the rim when I couldn't avoid a road hazard, a mid-size chunk of cement in the road.It got only the outside rear tire.

I finally decided it was time to replace. I've been driving on the spare, and carrying an oversize (non-dually) tire in the back. The over-size tire, and wheel, was given to me through the generosity of a fellow member here on the forum.

The new tire is a Bridgestone Duravis M700 All Terrain. That's the closest I could get to the other three Bridgestone tires across the rear. The Costco tire people even put the spare in it's correct place tucked up under the rear end. It took two of them to do it, but the spare is where Ford decided to put it. That was NOT one of Ford's better ideas. The two Costco guys were very good natured about that spare, though I suspect they had some evil thoughts.

Their computer came up with some numbers I'm not sure are right. It said to set the front tire pressure at 51, and the rear at 80. What I'm really suspicious about is that it told them to torque the lugnuts to 140. That seems awfully tight. What do you all think?

 

[gandalf]

Oppps, my thread, above, was intended to go into the "What did you do to your truck today". Sorry. Mods, feel free to move it if you'd like.

 

[Big Bart]

I think you are good, see this link and go to the lug nut specs. See page 11-10-3

Says spec is 125-155ft-lbs so 140 is right down the middle. Now can you get those off with a small tire iron? Well that is another question!

I see a new 1/2 breaker bar with an extension and correct socket behind your rear seat in the near future!

 

[gandalf]

...

I see a new 1/2 breaker bar with an extension and correct socket behind your rear seat in the near future!

If you look carefully you'll see it there now. I recently bought a 2 foot 1/2 inch breaker bar, and already have the socket. I'd really like a 3 foot breaker, but they're hard to find, and even harder at a reasonable price.

Thanks for confirming the torque specs.

 

[chillman88]

Yeah 140 is correct, if you look closely, it might even still be stamped in the lug nuts although after 30 years, who knows.

Spec for the stock 215/85/16 tires is somewhere around 52 front and something similar for the rear, don't remember exactly. I did some looking and 80 is unnecessarily high unless you're always running overweight. Going by the specifications for the firestones I have 80psi in all four rear tires is a rating of 11,000# on just the rear tires which is more than the GVW of the whole truck. I'm running 235/85/16 and I believe 65psi is factory spec for that size, that's still a load capacity of around 9,000#

As far as removing the lugs, you need one of these babies!

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It wasn't cheap, but it's paid for itself already in the few weeks I've had it. It's really quite impressive. Doesn't even struggle with the lug nuts even with all those adapters. I bought the 3/8" drive model because I could only afford one and wanted to be able to get in tighter spaces. That's a 3/4 drive socket and it didn't even hesitate. Took the axle nuts off my brother in law's Jeep like they were just put on yesterday and not rusted on after years up here in the rust belt.

 

[Big Bart]

Summit and Harbor Freight have some 3/4" ones for under $90.


I use one of these from tractor supply with 3 feet of pipe. Yet to break it!

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...ual-drive-spud-ratchet-1-2-x-3-4?cm_vc=-10005

 

[Big Bart]

Chillman88,

That is cheating!

But if you are going to cheat you better keep one of these in your truck too!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...SsBloSU6mSJ2guPgIE4aAm_XEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Milwaukee Fuel 18V 1/2 brushless is a monster on lug nuts, just comes with a monster price!

Two years ago I bought a couple Ryobi 1/2 inch 18v impacts on clearance at HD for my son and I, its no slacker. ($79 with large battery, charger, and a bag!) But its not in the same league as the Fuel 18v.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I can say that some of the newer (by just a few years) trucks with lug nuts shaped like Chillman88's are are rated at 150 Lb-Ft and are stamped that way. I know that in the past, I've torqued mine to 140. Although I can't do that on the Blue Truck. Someone covered the studs with grease before I bought the truck. I learned while at the Good Year store that you don't lubricate the studs because you won't get an accurate torque on the lug nuts then. The studs are just about dry enough that I can start torquing the lug nuts on it. It's only taken 8 years.

 

[gandalf]

I too have an impact, a DeWalt 20v 3/8 drive. That's not as large, or as powerful I'm sure, but it should get the job done. I'm not sure, though, that I want to carry it in the truck all the time.

I bought the DeWalt at a garage sale, but no battery. I paid $5 for it. I get a battery and charger on Amazon for $50. All told, I think it was a pretty good deal. It hasn't failed me yet on anything I've tried.

 

[gandalf]

Chillman88, where did you get that air setup? That is one thing the Costco tire guys did complain about. They couldn't check the air on the dualies, particularly with the sim covers on.

 

[Big Bart]

I can say that some of the newer (by just a few years) trucks with lug nuts shaped like Chillman88's are are rated at 150 Lb-Ft and are stamped that way. I know that in the past, I've torqued mine to 140. Although I can't do that on the Blue Truck. Someone covered the studs with grease before I bought the truck. I learned while at the Good Year store that you don't lubricate the studs because you won't get an accurate torque on the lug nuts then. The studs are just about dry enough that I can start torquing the lug nuts on it. It's only taken 8 years.

I take the opposite side of that argument. For 30 years I have put wheel bearing grease on all my steel to steel studs and nuts. (I got fed up with stuck, rusted, and then broken lug nuts.) I always torque them in 2 or 3 stages. Then double check a second time when at final torque. I have never had a issue with loose or missing lug nuts. If the lugs or studs are rusty, I would argue you will not be able to torque those correctly.

My opinion is like head bolts and crank main bolts, pro's lube them for better and smoother torquing not worse. (You don't have the binding of the threads tricking the torque wrench.) If there was any argument for grease it would be, the lug nuts could loosen and cause havac. But I find the grease acts like a vibration barrier and helps keeps nuts/studs in place.

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Best part when you want the lug nuts off, they come off!

Also on all of my gear pullers, first job when I buy one, put wheel bearing grease on the entire length of the stud/bolt. Nothing kills a puller faster than the lack of grease! I killed a few before I started doing that. Have see others kill theirs and they thanked me later saying greasing them worked much better.

 

[chillman88]

That is cheating!

But if you are going to cheat you better keep one of these in your truck too!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...SsBloSU6mSJ2guPgIE4aAm_XEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Milwaukee Fuel 18V 1/2 brushless is a monster on lug nuts, just comes with a monster price!

It really wasn't that horrible. I figured it'll get used all the time, so I was able to justify it. It was something like $330 with two batteries. It's rated for 600lbs/ft. You can definitely feel it when the batteries start getting low. I will be buying bigger batteries but the 2ah batteries are doing the job for now and saved me a little over $100.

I learned while at the Good Year store that you don't lubricate the studs because you won't get an accurate torque on the lug nuts then

Technically you can, and you'll get a more CONSISTENT torque, the problem is you have to calculate the correct spec. It's something like 10% less if the threads are lubricated, although I'd have to look ot up to be sure.

I too have an impact, a DeWalt 20v 3/8 drive. That's not as large, or as powerful I'm sure, but it should get the job done. I'm not sure, though, that I want to carry it in the truck all the time

I don't either, but I make sure to have it on the long trips now. I have a tire iron, and I'm a big enough guy to break them loose, but it's sure nice to have!

Chillman88, where did you get that air setup? That is one thing the Costco tire guys did complain about. They couldn't check the air on the dualies, particularly with the sim covers on.

Look up "Crossfire Tire Equalizers". I got mine on eBay for about $130 for the pair. I got those stainless brackets made up at work because I didn't like the ones they came with, although I could have made them work.

When I went to Texas a few years ago I blew 3 tires. No way to check the inner tire without pulling it, hands are too big to get in there!

This not only gives you a single fill point, but it will equalize the pressure between the tires so they are evenly loaded. Plus, it's great to be able to tell if they're at the right pressure just by looking at them.

 

[Old Goat]

Summit and Harbor Freight have some 3/4" ones for under $90.


I use one of these from tractor supply with 3 feet of pipe. Yet to break it!

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...ual-drive-spud-ratchet-1-2-x-3-4?cm_vc=-10005

When I saw it I said "Oh a Spud Wrench". I see they refer to it as a Spud Ratchet.
When I worked on the Highways doing guard rail work. we used those lining up the Guard Rail sections. There are 8 bolts on ea section where they over lap and can be a PITA.

I bought one of the HF 3/8" battery impact guns. Works ok for the most part. Bought it for when I go to PNP and some bolt/nuts it won`t budge.
For the Lug Nuts I would go with the 1/2" drive.

There is a ring to hold the socket on. Some how it must have got tweeked, and had to use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the sockets off. And finally it got bent enough I had to remove it. Now nothing to hod the socket.

Asked HF if they have replacements for it...NO. You should have bought the warantee.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-m...in-xtreme-torque-impact-wrench-kit-63536.html

What ever battery operated tools you use, should have all the same brand, that way you don`t have a bunch of batteries that fit only that tool.

I have all DeWalt except for this HF one, but do keep it behind the seat with a Socket. Also use a lil bit of Anti-Seiz on the threads.


Goat

 

[chillman88]

I take the opposite side of that argument. For 30 years I have put wheel bearing grease on all my steel to steel studs and nuts.

I've had a few people laugh talking about "those idiots who put anti seize on their lug nuts". I said to them I've been doing it for years, if you torque them correctly you're fine. Besides, you're seating against the taper, so there's a friction fit there regardless.

They don't usually have anything to say after that

 

[riphip]

Get a rubber o-ring for replacement that will hold the socket and slip some silicone grease on it.
I use anti-seize on my lugnuts also.