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[Coyote_Red]

Well this thread is to start my planning process for my diesel build. All tips, suggestions and answers welcomed by me.

Background:
I have wanted a diesel truck since I was in second grade. Well now my skills and finances are in a state where I can make that dream into a reality. I fell in love with the 6.9l my grandpa had is his 80's truck and have always wanted a 6.9 powered truck. So I started to acquire parts over the past year and a half or so and want to tally up my prices here, as well as turn this into a build thread once I get started. I love the 70's dent side and want something to pull a trailer with.
Disclaimer: I am not showing cost to look like a high roller or anything special just want to know my total cost incurred with the love affair.

Parts on hand:
1976 F-350 cab and chassis dually. The frame is extremely solid and sitting with a 360 FE that needs only minor attention to run. Transmission is either a NP435 or T-18 with a Dana 70 Rear and factory dually spindles up front. Cost, $600

6.9L with a C6 2wd. This was pulled from a truck that was going to be scrapped on CL. Not too sure of mileage since the guy scrapped the cab, but everything turned freely and trans fluid looked good as it was drained. Cost $350

Factory International 6.9L Overhaul kit. Includes every gasket and seal, all bearings, new pistons, wrist pins, rings, valley pan, and many other parts to take a block and rebuild it. Hell it even had the international packing slip that itemized the box and plastic handle on the box. Cost $200

Good solid cab and front clip from 70's dent side. Cost a little horse trading by my father and a gift for my birthday so no cost in sheet metal.

Hydraboost master cylinder and hoses. Cost $60

ZF-5 Close Ratio with flywheel, clutch, master and slave cylinder. Cost $450

Now this is where I need opinions and advise from everyone:

From my signature you can see that I want to convert this truck to 4wd. I live in the rust belt which means snow and ice for the winter and wet grass and a diesel dually are arch enemies to each other. I have the chance to do a little bit of trading and get a 1990 extended cab long bed frame that is already set up for a diesel 2wd and use this a the frame for my truck and just do a cab swap and 4x4 conversion. OR I can continue with my plan to convert the 1976 frame to accept a diesel and then also convert that to a 4x4. Which frame should I use for this project if you were going to do it? I have a welder and awesome grinder skills so I am not worried about fabrication.

For the front axle, should I be looking for a Dana 60 or use a TTB that can be sourced for half the cost of a D60? I am not sure if I will be plowing with this truck yet. I have no need to now but in five years I can not say. My thoughts with this are the camber changes that a TTB experience from hauling heavy to unloaded are going to wear tires out quickly. I have thought about using the TTB as a starter just to get the truck on the road and then I can worry about a solid axle when it is not going to hold up progress. Thought or opinions from anyone else on this issue?

Sorry for the long read and thanks in advance for any input.

 

[lindstromjd]

You don't need a Dana 60 unless you plan on beating the crap out of your 4wd. The TTB will provide a better ride than a straight axle. It's really up to you which one you want to go with, but the old dent-side is only going to have Dana 44 axles (stock) under it. You'll need to make sure you don't break anything if you really plan on building up the 6.9 for it. I don't foresee any problems with it though. And if you go with the dent-side frame, then you'll be looking at an easier time swapping in a straight axle. IIRC, the TTB's are hard and intensive to swap into a 2wd frame.

Secondly... WHERE did you get a full rebuild kit for only $200?

And as far as the ZF-5... yes, if it's in good condition it's worth more than that guy is asking for it. Even better if you get the transfer case with it.

 

[Coyote_Red]

The only thoughts I had for justifying the 60 was with the extra weight sitting on top of it. The idi might be a little more weight than the housing and wheel bearings can handle for the 44. Also I can get dually hubs/spindles for the 60 so I won't be running two different wheels. Just my thoughts, not trying to discredit you or your opinion.

As for the rebuild kit it popped up on CL just shy of a year ago. I couldn't get there fast enough to buy it!

Thanks for the reality check for the ZF-5. I thought I heard rumor that they were worth a pretty penny just wanted to verify.

 

[hesutton]

After have both Dana TTB 44's/50's and now two trucks with Dana 60's........go with the 60. In my experience, it's heads/shoulders above the TTB 44's and 50's. Get a kingpin 60 and enjoy.

The price on the ZF5 seems good to me, but keep in mind it may need work. My used ZF5 shifted great on the shop floor, but would NOT go into or stay in reverse when it was in the truck with a load on it. It needed a new reverse gear, reverse slider, and synchro. That was $800 worth of fun.

Have you had the 6.9 apart to see if you need bearings, pistons that are other than the standard size? Not trying to jinx you, but some of the parts in the rebuild kit may not work for ya. It's not the end of the world as you got a great price on that kit and even if you need to buy different bearings or pistons, you still saved money in the long run.

If you are turbo'ing the 6.9 (now or down the road) , go ahead and add head studs while you've got it out. Much easier now than latter.

Heath

 

[Coyote_Red]

Heath,
That was the kind of info on the ZF that I was looking for. It doesn't matter if I can get the ZF for free if I have to drop 1000 plus labor into it. I will have to see what everything looks like and how I feel about the guy when I buy it. I am planning on studs and any other modifications that are required while the engine is torn apart. As for seeing the insides of the 6.9, I have not so, you bring a valid point that I may not be able to use the pistons/rings and bearings. That will be determined when I tear everything down and inspect it all with plastigage and a micrometer.

 

[hesutton]

Have a good look at the heads as well. They can be a source of problems on high mileage IDI's (seats, guides, valves, precups, springs, valve seals). Might want to get a set of 7.3 rocker arms. The 6.9 rockers can also be a failure point on well used engines. The 7.3 style rockers are an updated/better design.

Heath

 

[Coyote_Red]

Heath,
Thanks for the advise about the heads and rockers arms. With very little history and unknown mileage, I will be doing a very in depth examination and upgrade process.