NOS 7.3 turbo engein

genscripter

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I wrapped my EM's on my van to try and reduce some of the heat transferring to the doghouse. Every little bit helps. When I'm hauling up a steep grade and getting 1100 deg EGT's, I can feel the heat through the doghouse near my accelerator pedal.
 

Thewespaul

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I can coat anything y’all need, my high temp ceramic coating is rated for up to 2000* and I can typically have it back to you within the week-10 days depending on the size of the parts.
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Clb

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For those unfamiliar, this stuff is hard,cleans up the look, held down the heat in my case.
Anyone on the fence, I give it a ;Sweet.
Having a vendor here is great...
Prior pipes were hot as Hades, this held the temps down on the inner thigh at a stoplight.:thumbsup:
 

saburai

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Those are from ford, for running on a test stand. They wouldnt fit in an engine bay from the ones Ive seen, basically just to keep the fish from burning the hands on the obviously toasty manifolds.

I would tear that engine completely down before starting it, who knows what its hiding inside.
+1
That thing lived at a tech school...
 

buckgnarly

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Update....after a year of scouting Fleabay, Book of Faces, CL, and local leads, this thing is just about ready to go. A freaking virus will make the install wait until next school year so my students can share in the fun.
One question, where the heck can I find the grommet that fits the CDR into the valve cover. Ordered a Ford E3TZ 6A892 A in Hope's of making it work, heard you can cut the piece down to make it work. Pics......

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buckgnarly

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A few other things.......
1. any ideas what can I use for the airbox into the turbo?
2. Is the 1/8 pipe plug in the back of the block where the normally 1/4 (IIRC) feed line for the turbo goes? Pic.....

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aggiediesel01

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A few other things.......
1. any ideas what can I use for the airbox into the turbo?
2. Is the 1/8 pipe plug in the back of the block where the normally 1/4 (IIRC) feed line for the turbo goes? Pic.....

1. If Russ doesn't have the correct reducer hose and clamps for it I'm sure Wes has a few used ones laying around from the kits where he's eliminated the air box.
2. Yes, your interesting hybrid engine seems to have the ATS style oil feed on top of the turbo, which Russ's oil feed line will resolve, yet it has the ford style exhaust housing casting. With Russ's line, you will probably use the ats recommended oil feed location from the driver's side rear lower portion of the block. However that 1/8" plug you referenced is where your oil pressure sensor will go unless you add a T where you connect the turbo line. Normally there is a standoff in that hole to bring the oil sensor connection up to the level where it's easier to access.

Another note; I see you have the heat shield for the clutch slave cyl and I would recommend adding a heat shield sleeve to the line up to the MC. Some people have problems with this and some don't but I thinks it's good protection regardless since it's so close to the exhaust manifold.
 
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Knuckledragger

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I agree with several others about tearing it down completely before trying anything, but if you decide to start it up without tearing it down, maybe at least turn it over, take off the oil pan and check the torque on the main and rod caps. Wiggle everything to make sure there are actual bearings in there. Good Luck!
 

Thewespaul

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ID be most concerned about gear timing being off, most diesel monkeys cant get that right, tech school engine I would not be suprised to see a history of valve imprints on the pistons.
 
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