Need yalls guidance on return cap o ring replacement please.

[larson]

So I make my morning trip for a redbull and smell diesel in the ac vents bad. Got to store popped the hood and see a small leak from front driver side return cap. So i take it home and start examining the situation. I realize the return lines between the caps are way to long causing the cap to want to kick to one side so I'm assuming this is what caused the leak over time. I had my new IP installed a year ago and the mechanic said I should replace the return lines also so I said sure why not add them to the list. Well I'm starting to think that all he did was replace the lines not any of the o rings along with not trimming the lines to fit right. So I get home and pull off the return line piece trimmed it up reinstalled started truck and now I have diesel flowing everywhere out of this one return cap. So I purchased a seal kit from auto parts store and have come to a stopping point for the day due to the heat outside.
A few questions?
-Is it ok to leave my hard lines off the injector's over night? (I'm assuming it shouldn't be a problem.)
I have kept it as clean as possible as to not get any **** in the injectors.
-once I get everything reinstalled what am I looking at as far as re priming the fuel lines?
-what are the copper washers for in the kit? There weren't any copper washers that came off the driver side assembly unless I skipped a step?

 

[Clb]

you should be ok,,,IF you keep it clean,,,
its been awhile,,, on the coppers?are there 8? if so they go under the injectors, cant think of much else other than possibly the #1 inj. has the rotunda fitting could use one??? the prime has been broken so loosen each hard line 1 at a time till it leaks under cranking,,,, should happen quick unless you drained the whole line or pump.

 

[chris142]

The copper washers seal the injectors to the head but your not digging that deep. As for repriming it i just start it.sometimes it may run funky a few seconds and sometimes it may die but it will start right back up

 

[smolkin]

If you tighten the hard inj line nuts to HAND tight you can crank in 10 sec intervals until you see fuel at the nuts. This will get the vast majority of air out. Tighten nuts down to proper torque and it should crank. As chris142 said it will run very rough for a few secs while it purges the remaining air.

 

[larson]

Can I use bearing grease instead of Vaseline on the o rings?

 

[smolkin]

Can I use bearing grease instead of Vaseline on the o rings?

As long as it is petroleum-based any lube is OK, i.e. no KY or plumber's grease.

 

[larson]

As long as it is petroleum-based any lube is OK, i.e. no KY or plumber's grease.

Lol right on. Just checking

 

[OLDBULL8]

To replace the O'rings, grease them with wheel bearing grease, Vasoline, gear oil or white grease. Install the first O'ring in the top groove then roll the second O'ring over it, install the cap with a little twist and make sure it SNAPS down. Cut the connecting hoses 1/8" short on each end, that's to prevent pressure on the cap, any side or twisting pressure will cause a leak. Install the clamp close to the hose end.

The copper washers always come with a kit, unless you remove the injector, they are not needed.

You can force/bend the hard lines just enough to install the caps, when replacing the line to the injector look tom see if it's aligned to the taper, line nuts should be started by hand and screwed down all the way, if you can't the line may be twisted sideways. The easy way to move the hard lines is to take the clamps off.

 

[franklin2]

The injectors will bleed themselves, that's why you are fixing the return lines. A portion of the fuel going to the injector is diverted out to the return caps to help keep the injector cool and lubed. The air can take this route also and it won't be long till it's all out of the line and running back to the tank in the return system.