Injectors without o-rings... do any exist?

[typ4]

I have 10+ years on the original style . Still not sure why so many have problems.
One thought, quality control of the caps is a very likely issue. Crap hose and orings is another.
And as said operator error.
Dont use a washer on the top, an oring there does just fine with no cap damage.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

and don't get me started on those clamps.

Yes! Those are absolutely miserable!

 

[Austin86250]

I have 10+ years on the original style . Still not sure why so many have problems.
One thought, quality control of the caps is a very likely issue. Crap hose and orings is another.
And as said operator error.
Dont use a washer on the top, an oring there does just fine with no cap damage.

My buddy bought a return set off diesellogic that i tried to installed the cap fit was like throwing a hot dog down a hallway and leaked within 50 miles

 

[bumblebeer]

My buddy bought a return set off diesellogic that i tried to installed the cap fit was like throwing a hot dog down a hallway and leaked within 50 miles

This here! I've compared original return caps with multiple aftermarket ones, and the new ones are always larger by a significant amount. If there were a source for aftermarket caps that are as well fitting as the originals I don't think there'd be half as many issues.

 

[Austin86250]

This here! I've compared original return caps with multiple aftermarket ones, and the new ones are always larger by a significant amount. If there were a source for aftermarket caps that are as well fitting as the originals I don't think there'd be half as many issues.

I’ve had good fitment with Delphi and Russ caps

 

[Cubey]

I put AutoZone sourced caps on my F250 in 2017 and and they seemed fine. It's been 2.5 years since I last set eyes on the F250 but it ran when parked. AutoZone slapped their sticker on a plain brown box, so who knows who made them.

On my RV, I used a mix of old caps from the F250 and from the RV based on how good they looked. Also I broke a tiny tee the RV had so I used an extra elbow connection cap instead of a "dead end" cap for the crossover.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

This here! I've compared original return caps with multiple aftermarket ones, and the new ones are always larger by a significant amount. If there were a source for aftermarket caps that are as well fitting as the originals I don't think there'd be half as many issues.

+1 I've had OEM ford ones and aftermarket ones and Russ's replacement set, in that order. The ford and Russ's set is all smooth and good, the aftermarket was trashy with casting seams all over and they didn't seal worth a darn and leaked. One broke and I grabbed a spare I had from the other set and immediately remembered why this aftermarket set was leaking. Doh.

Since then I'm pretty much leak free with Russ' set. Just use real grease on install and viton o-rings. I've been known to wiggle the return lines many times and they rarely leak with good caps, viton o-rings, and grease.

 

[Booyah45828]

I've used the right sized socket and a mallet on a few of mine. They definitely have to snap into place, or they're not in place. Viton o-rings and good grease(I used acdelco super lube) are a must as well.

Most of the time the OE caps are fine, it's the O-rings and hose that dry and leak.

 

[Black dawg]

Every once in a while I will have a cap that just wont seal on a new set. Usually just replace those o rings and grab another cap from the box of caps.

I just use napa silicone spray on the orings and the injector during install, and let the orings shrink back down during the time that I cut hose and assemble each bank of return fittings/hoses. Silicone spray on the orings, and the caps while carefully pushing them down and together. Usually give them all a slight wiggle and push down after assembled.

 

[Cubey]

I just use dollar tree petroleum jelly on the o-rings and inside of the caps, and the caps have pressed on by hand for me just fine, even in the very cramped van chassis engine bay. No need to hammer on them at all.

 

[typ4]

I send a tube of lube with the kits to make it easier.

 

[Mulochico]

If done right (i.e., carefully with lube), with quality O-rings (i.e., Russ from https://russrepair.com/, type4) they last fine. Mine have 4 1/2 years and 34,000 miles with just a little moisture on the hoses. I usually replace them if I do injectors or at around 5 yr/50,000 mi. If no leaks and minimal leakage I just keep going and keep an eye on them. Probably not the best setup, but if you use good parts they tend to last better (as in most vehicle repairs).