F350camper
BOOST!
Ok guys, as promised here is the rundown of my MWO/WVO setup.
The drawing shows how I have things rigged, and it’s all controlled by the stock dual tank switch. When its all said and done, what I ended up with is one filter that is only used with the rear / garbage tank, and one filter that is only used with the front diesel only tank. The filter that works with the garbage tank is heated via a copper coil hooked to a heater hose that I tightly wrapped around the filter. The copper coil is held tightly to the filter by a ‘C’ shaped piece of aluminum that is bolted around the coil. And finally the whole filter is covered with foil backed insulation to keep the heat in. To allow me to switch between the two filters, I wired an extra stock tank switcher valve directly inline with the stock wiring. So when I flick the switch in the cab, both valves are switched to their respective positions.
The other pictures show my filling station setup. It’s just a 55gallon barrel that once held soy sauce. I have a long piece of copper tubing for the pickup. This is hooked to the pump. On the output side of the pump is a 3way valve. If I have the lever in one position, I’m in mixing mode. In this mode oil is pulled from the bottom of the tank and dumped right back in at the top. If I throw the lever the other way the oil is directed through a 30 micron filter, and then into a hose that I just hang into my rear tank.
So far I have been focusing on WMO. This is what I plan to burn during the winter months. I hope to venture into WVO in the spring, and I believe I’ll be able to use everything I have put together just the same. And since I plan on WVO for summer months only, I don’t even plan to heat the rear / garbage tank.
This is how I’m preparing my WMO for use. Basically through trial and error, I’ve found the best thing to do is thin it down 12 parts WMO, and 1 part mineral spirits. This gives the oil a viscosity very similar to hydraulic oil. It makes it nice and thin. Since it is so thin, it’s much easier to filter, and I believe it burns better since it will produce a better pattern out of the injectors. Mineral spirits only cost $6 per gallon, so that’s 13 gallons of fuel for 6 bucks. 46 cents per gallon aint bad. So far, I’ve successfully burned 40gallons of my 100% WMO mix. I start up and shut down on good ole #2, and with the dual filter setup it only takes 3 minutes to totally purge from garbage to diesel. I only notice more smoke in 1 situation with this setup. If I’m idling at a stop light long enough for the EGTs to get down below 300°, when the light turns green I’ll leave a moderate grey cloud when I put in the clutch and take my foot off the accelerator for my 1st to 2nd gear shift. The same thing happens on my 2nd to 3rd gear shift though it’s a much smaller cloud of gray. Other than that, the truck loves this stuff. As long as the engine is warmed up I think it actually runs better. And I’m seeing about a 10% increase in fuel mileage.
Am I ruining my IP and injectors? Dunno, prolly. Am I coking up the inside of my engine with all that extra carbon. Dunno, prolly. But as we know, an entire fuel system for an IDI can run as low as $600. So if I foul something up beyond repair, It wont be fun, but it wont break me either.
The drawing shows how I have things rigged, and it’s all controlled by the stock dual tank switch. When its all said and done, what I ended up with is one filter that is only used with the rear / garbage tank, and one filter that is only used with the front diesel only tank. The filter that works with the garbage tank is heated via a copper coil hooked to a heater hose that I tightly wrapped around the filter. The copper coil is held tightly to the filter by a ‘C’ shaped piece of aluminum that is bolted around the coil. And finally the whole filter is covered with foil backed insulation to keep the heat in. To allow me to switch between the two filters, I wired an extra stock tank switcher valve directly inline with the stock wiring. So when I flick the switch in the cab, both valves are switched to their respective positions.
The other pictures show my filling station setup. It’s just a 55gallon barrel that once held soy sauce. I have a long piece of copper tubing for the pickup. This is hooked to the pump. On the output side of the pump is a 3way valve. If I have the lever in one position, I’m in mixing mode. In this mode oil is pulled from the bottom of the tank and dumped right back in at the top. If I throw the lever the other way the oil is directed through a 30 micron filter, and then into a hose that I just hang into my rear tank.
So far I have been focusing on WMO. This is what I plan to burn during the winter months. I hope to venture into WVO in the spring, and I believe I’ll be able to use everything I have put together just the same. And since I plan on WVO for summer months only, I don’t even plan to heat the rear / garbage tank.
This is how I’m preparing my WMO for use. Basically through trial and error, I’ve found the best thing to do is thin it down 12 parts WMO, and 1 part mineral spirits. This gives the oil a viscosity very similar to hydraulic oil. It makes it nice and thin. Since it is so thin, it’s much easier to filter, and I believe it burns better since it will produce a better pattern out of the injectors. Mineral spirits only cost $6 per gallon, so that’s 13 gallons of fuel for 6 bucks. 46 cents per gallon aint bad. So far, I’ve successfully burned 40gallons of my 100% WMO mix. I start up and shut down on good ole #2, and with the dual filter setup it only takes 3 minutes to totally purge from garbage to diesel. I only notice more smoke in 1 situation with this setup. If I’m idling at a stop light long enough for the EGTs to get down below 300°, when the light turns green I’ll leave a moderate grey cloud when I put in the clutch and take my foot off the accelerator for my 1st to 2nd gear shift. The same thing happens on my 2nd to 3rd gear shift though it’s a much smaller cloud of gray. Other than that, the truck loves this stuff. As long as the engine is warmed up I think it actually runs better. And I’m seeing about a 10% increase in fuel mileage.
Am I ruining my IP and injectors? Dunno, prolly. Am I coking up the inside of my engine with all that extra carbon. Dunno, prolly. But as we know, an entire fuel system for an IDI can run as low as $600. So if I foul something up beyond repair, It wont be fun, but it wont break me either.
Attachments
Last edited:
I think we are just starting to see the design and simplicity of these older trucks really start to pay off.
