Modified IDI to run on WVO or WMO

sassyrel

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the only thing with burning them in tins--not the same as the combustion heat inside teh chamber--same as if you burn a tire in the open air--lots of smoke!!!! but if its burned in a furnace--almost no smoke at all--hotter combustion---
 

93turbo_animal

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Hey Rob how about some info on that new filter head I'm running a 100% WVO I built a fuel tank to fit between my stacks and above the splitter pipe to try and help heat the oil but so far it hasn't heated it much but the bottom does get warm where the fuel pickup is plus I'm going to add some more shields to help hold heat in I mounted the fuel valve in the engine compartment to keep it warm plus I have a very short purge time the fuel line from the veg tank is ran beside a 5/8 copper line 6' long heated with coolant inside a larger heater hose and the veggie return line just loops back in to the feed line so far so good but a heated filter would be a nice safety feature
 

F350camper

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Aric,

I’m using the Fleetguard FH23000 filter. I got it off EBay for $95. This thing it huge, and looks to be originally designed for medium duty trucks. Its 17” from the very top to the bottom of the drain.

I have it all installed now and I have to say that the system is working great. The only other thing I did was add a heat exchanger after the filter. Sounds a lot like your hose in hose setup Aric. So the garbage runs from the tank, through the mega-heated filter, through a 10’ all copper heat exchanger, and into the IP.

My garbage fuel is now being injected between 160° and 170°. My opinion is that heat is king when modifying one of these IDIs to run on alt fuels. This is based on viscosity tests that I have run, and just looking at smoke color while cruising around. When I first started this it was 80° out and I thought just thinning the WMO with mineral spirits would do the trick. Well, since then we have had several mornings in the 40s, and it became clear that the temp of the fuel was much more critical than how much I had tried to pre-thin it. White smoke was abundant, and the metering valve in the IP was totally confused. The truck would stall when the RPMs were allowed to quickly drift from 2k down to idle.

So I’m still tweaking, and learning. But I just about have it dialed in. I’ve successfully run WMO, WVO, and used hydraulic oil. I’m up to about 80 gallons on these various forms of garbage, and I’m starting to like the hydraulic oil the best. It’s by far the cleanest, and easiest for me to get. Although, having your truck smell like Chinese food is kinda fun too.

I’ll to take some pics of the install tonight and get them up.
 
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sassyrel

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glad someone else is happy not having to pay high fuel prices!!!! :Sly :Sly
 

F350camper

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Here are some pics of the mods thus far. It still looks like a rats nest under the hood. I’ll get that all tidied up in phase 2.
 

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towcat

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hey rob-
have you thought of throwing a heater core into the tank that stores the waste oil? that should clean up the tubing fun under the hood......I got the idea from the heating pads I sold for feul tanks in the northern climates. My goal is to avoid adding any more rubber hose for the waste whatever oil to pass through. If I can get the system to be able to burn whatever I throw into the secondary feul tank then I will be happy. Kinda like the multifeul motors the military trucks used. yes, I did get all the publications from the military for the cocktails that are approved for the multifeulers.
 
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93turbo_animal

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Looks good Rob how did you make the heat exchanger I never understood how to do HIH thats why I did HOH when I get a chance I'm gonna revamp my set up a little I still dont think its getting as hot as neededI can touch the fuel line as soon as it exits my HOH and its hot but not yank your hand away cause your going to get burnt kinda hot but I ran my WVO return line back into the feed line and that hose is as hot or hotter then the heated line so I'm hoping that most of the fuel is hot enough. How did you find enough room for all that stuff I just added a 6 way valve and it seemed crowded
 

93turbo_animal

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also how long is yor purge time mine only has to purge about a foot from the lift pump thru the filter and IP but it still seems like it needs atleast 3 miles to clean it all out
 

F350camper

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towcat said:
hey rob-
have you thought of throwing a heater core into the tank that stores the waste oil? that should clean up the tubing fun under the hood......I got the idea from the heating pads I sold for feul tanks in the northern climates. My goal is to avoid adding any more rubber hose for the waste whatever oil to pass through. If I can get the system to be able to burn whatever I throw into the secondary feul tank then I will be happy. Kinda like the multifeul motors the military trucks used. yes, I did get all the publications from the military for the cocktails that are approved for the multifeulers.

Ya, sounds like we have similar goals Calvin. My long term plan involves replacing the rear tank with a Bronco tank. I plan to prep it and install a heater core or tranny cooler of some sort in the tank before I install it. But I’m prolly a year away from finding time to do that. With all the love I’ve been giving my truck these days, the honey-do list is really starting to stack up. So for now, I’m gonna clean up the stuff I have and make it work.

Looks good Rob how did you make the heat exchanger I never understood how to do HIH thats why I did HOH

OK, the outer tube is what the coolant runs through. it's 3/4. Inside of it is 3/8 soft copper. I'm sure that’s easy enough for you to picture. its the ends that get tricky, but not really. OK so if you imagine one end of the 3/4 pipe, it has the 3/8th coming out the middle. So, all you do is cover the end with a copper 'T'. The 3/8ths comes through the straight part of the 'T', and you solder a bushing to fill in the extra space between the 3/8ths and the 3/4" T. That leaves you with the 'L' part of the 'T' to attach your heater hose, and the fuel attaches to the 3/8". Make sense? Also, if you use 1" outer, and 1/2" inner, I think it is easier to find the bushings you'll need, but I needed all the space I could get.

Mine takes about 1 minute to purge, but I usually go for 3 to be safe
 

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F350camper

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towcat said:
yes, I did get all the publications from the military for the cocktails that are approved for the multifeulers.

Nice! I'd like to kill a couple of 6 packs with ya and read those over. Should be some good info in there.
 

Agnem

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As long as your heat exchanger doesn't develop a leak in the internal fuel pipe, you should never see coolant in your fuel. But, it does look possible. Let's hope your water in fuel light is working. I assume the fuel is under vacuum, while the water is presurized, so I wouldn't expect you could get fuel in your water from this arrangement.
 

F350camper

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Agnem said:
As long as your heat exchanger doesn't develop a leak in the internal fuel pipe, you should never see coolant in your fuel. But, it does look possible. Let's hope your water in fuel light is working. I assume the fuel is under vacuum, while the water is pressurized, so I wouldn't expect you could get fuel in your water from this arrangement.

That's was one of my biggest fears of putting a heater in the fuel tank. Lots of folks are putting a heater core or tranny cooler in the tank to act as a heater. I've never heard of one leaking, but if one did they would dump loads of coolant into the tank.

With the heat exchanger, the fuel pipe is all one piece end to end. So I feel the water in fuel risk is minimal. If i get a leak, more than likely it will be coolant on the ground from a faulty solder joint. But as you say, if that fuel pipe develops a crack for some reason, the IP would suck coolant like nobodies business. Here's to hoping I don’t see that :D.
 

wwwabbit

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When I was doing some reading, there was a fuel line that had coolant lines beside it all wrapped up in one bundel. Should be easy enough to do something like that and wrap it up in the gray pipe foam or something of that sort to keep the heat in.
 

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