Manual Tank Selector Valves

[sle2115]

Ok, for those of you who have converted to manual tank select valves, what did you use? Someone posted valves with three inputs and one output, which is how I plan to go, then I can add an in the bed tank for a long trip if I want. Now, what about fuel gauge wiring, I'm guessing there is a switch that would allow for three tanks to be monitored as well. Anyone done this?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

My 1985 F250 seems to have an air leak when I switch to the rear tank. The front tank runs and starts fine, but the one time I used the rear tank, there wasn't any fuel at the filter head when I came out from work. It's been sitting for a couple of months since due to a bad head gasket. I'm not sure if it's the selector valve or not. If it ever stops raining or having 20 t0 30 mph winds long enough I'm going to get the engine back together and into the truck. If I decide that it's the valve, I'm going to leave it on the front tank. Then I'll hook up a small universal electric pump to the feed line on the rear tank and pump fuel into the front tank with it. I've tried to find another one online with no luck. Saturday I stopped by my closest Ford dealer and they told me that a new valve is well over $300! I probably won't be buying one of those any time before I win the lottery. I'm going this route instead of yours because you didn't mention return lines and if you don't switch return lines as well as your feed lines, then you're going to pump all your fuel back into the one tank with a return.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I figure sle2115 has enough sense to use TWO manual valves.

I use WeatherHead myself and, although they are getting nigh impossible to find, I much prefer the ball to be stainless and not plastic.

The plastic balls are fine and will work for about three years, until the diesel-fuel finally swells the plastic to the point that they become so tight within the housing that the stem snaps off when trying to turn the valve.

I always buy the 4-port/3-tank valves, whether I need that 4th port or not; a simple pipe-plug will close it off and it is always there should one change things later.


As for the gauge wiring, it is easily accessed right at the old electric junk valve.

You should have THREE wires; one goes to the dash gauge; the other two go to the front and rear tank.

Put the gauge wire on the center terminal of a SPDT switch; put a tank wire on each of the end terminals.

Flip the switch to switch from one tank to the other.


As for gauging the auxilliary, I prefer mine being on it's generic SunPro gauge/sender, independent of the factory gauge.

If one prefers the auxilliary to also be on the factory dash gauge, then it is a simple matter to use one of the generic J.C.Whitney sending-units that matches the ohms signal of the gauge in question.

To switch the one gauge between three separate sending-units, a 3-position rotary switch comes to mind.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

So I still have the stock tank selector valve in my truck, however, Parker makes a XV633 three position, dual ball valve that would be a nice manual version. They also make a long handled version that would be really cool to mount someplace where you could easily actuate it.

In regards to three tanks, I do believe Parker also makes a 4 way diverter valve, although I don't think they make a dual version. The dual version is nice because it takes care of your pressure and return lines with just one turn of the ball valve.

Just my .02 worth, good luck and take lots of pics

 

[kc0stp]

So silly question for those with manual valves, every time you swap tanks do you have to pull over and get out or have you set it up so its switchable from inside the cab?

 

[sle2115]

Mine will be cab accessible, I'm thinking of mounting it through the floor board beside the seat. That's where I've had them mounted in many other trucks I've owned. And yeah, I'm quite aware of the return line setup, figured on two 4 ways, but the Parker Valve sounds intriguing!

 

[sle2115]

Parker Valve

 

[laserjock]

I've seen this topic come up a few times and it makes me wonder if there is a reliable electric replacement out there. It's not hard to switch a pair of 3 way solenoid valves using the switch in the dash. That's essetially what the stock selector valve is (a pair of 3 way valves). I would think a latching solenoid might do the job or something with an actuator linkage.

 

[bike-maker]

After pouring a few gallons of diesel all over the Interstate when my stock selector valve hung, I've not once regretted going to my manual setup.
That Parker valve would be nice, but 2 separate valves allows you to transfer fuel from one tank to the other. You can even transfer fuel with the truck off if you have an electric fuel pump.
I bought my valves from McMaster-Carr.

 

[79jasper]

Somebody here mounted the valves on the trans tunnel. Easy access. Shifting sticks and switching valves.

 

[gatorman21218]

subscribing.

 

[franklin2]

There seems to be a common denominator with most of the problems on these trucks; Electrical. I wonder if these trucks will ever get popular enough to where they will start making new wiring harness for them. That would cure a lot of people's problems if they wanted to try and keep it original.

 

[warhog]

Somebody here mounted the valves on the trans tunnel. Easy access. Shifting sticks and switching valves.

That would be me. Worked out perfect. Completely out of the way, but right there and visable for checking which tank i'm on, and switching on the fly...BAM 4th gear BAM rear tank

 

[79jasper]

So that's how it goes.

I'm sure someone could send a harness into painless or someone to have it copied.... Maybe....

 

[sle2115]

That would be me. Worked out perfect. Completely out of the way, but right there and visable for checking which tank i'm on, and switching on the fly...BAM 4th gear BAM rear tank

Pictures? Can supply an email if you can't get them on here. It's a pain, even uploaded elsewhere then linking, but would be cool for ideas!