Manual GP glow time

[jayro88]

So I switched my ‘88 e250 over to manual GP’s. I have tested the 6 rear GP’s (the ones I get at from inside the van) and they all test good. I will be testing the front 2 as well.

My question is, how long do people usually glow their plugs at different temps?

My van has been sitting in 20* temps for 4 days. This morning I did an 8 second glow and it didn’t start. I did another 8 seconds glow and it kinda acted like it wanted to start. I did a 10 second glow and it fired of and ran.

Also, the clicking Afterglow helps keep the GP hot/warm during cranking to help heat the air coming in. Is it suggested that that behavior is somewhat simulated when manually glowing the plugs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MtnHaul]

Even at 60 degrees my truck likes a full 10 second glow to fire right up--8 seconds it might start with a cough. From what I have read 10 seconds is a safe number in terms of avoiding burning out the GPs. I've been doing it this way for about 4 years and no issues, although I haven't tested my plugs since I installed them.

 

[Black dawg]

How long did they stay on when plugs were good and controller was functioning? 20 degrees needs more like 15 seconds with factory wiring intact (voltage drop). I am sure you know this, but glowing them, then glowing them again manually will burn them out.....even berus.

 

[riphip]

Before I went to updated GP controller (years ago) I did the 10 second, wait about 30 seconds, another 10 seconds, crank for really cold temps (0* around here) without damage to the GPs. With new controller, I don't remember when I put it in since it has worked so well. Same GPs...Berus. Won't go back to manual

 

[jayro88]

How long did they stay on when plugs were good and controller was functioning? 20 degrees needs more like 15 seconds with factory wiring intact (voltage drop). I am sure you know this, but glowing them, then glowing them again manually will burn them out.....even berus.

That is the situation I am trying to avoid. I want to glow them long enough to not have to re-glow them. But have it be a safe amount of time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[riphip]

Patience can save you $$ & GPs

 

[pelky350]

One of the wires is still connected to the controller in my truck so the wait to start light comes on still and I time it by that my glow plugs are manual control though

 

[jayro88]

One of the wires is still connected to the controller in my truck so the wait to start light comes on still and I time it by that my glow plugs are manual control though

I just removed the white wire and added a push button ground.

My WTS light just does a quick flash when I turn the key to the on position.....like it does when you have multiple plugs burned out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[franklin2]

How long did they stay on when plugs were good and controller was functioning? 20 degrees needs more like 15 seconds with factory wiring intact (voltage drop). I am sure you know this, but glowing them, then glowing them again manually will burn them out.....even berus.

I have never had trouble glowing my plugs multiple times. Maybe you are saying glowing them without cranking inbetween the glow sessions?

The original poster's first experience is what I do all the time. On a summer morning I will hold it 1000-1, 1000-2, up to 5 and then crank it. It will usually almost start. Another 5 and it starts. As it get's colder I will count to 8 and when it is really cold I will count to 10. I always get a almost start, and then stop and glow them again for another 5 and it fires off. I have been doing this for years with no problems.

I am finding out recently that cranking speed is very important for it to start. I swapped starters because the one I had would grind occasionally without turning the engine over. After I swapped starters, it would not fire off at all. I could tell it was not cranking as fast as it did with the original starter. So what I did was take the motor part of the original starter and swapped it onto the drive of the newer starter and it cranked right up and no more grinding either.

 

[jayro88]

I have never had trouble glowing my plugs multiple times. Maybe you are saying glowing them without cranking inbetween the glow sessions?

The original poster's first experience is what I do all the time. On a summer morning I will hold it 1000-1, 1000-2, up to 5 and then crank it. It will usually almost start. Another 5 and it starts. As it get's colder I will count to 8 and when it is really cold I will count to 10. I always get a almost start, and then stop and glow them again for another 5 and it fires off. I have been doing this for years with no problems.

I am finding out recently that cranking speed is very important for it to start. I swapped starters because the one I had would grind occasionally without turning the engine over. After I swapped starters, it would not fire off at all. I could tell it was not cranking as fast as it did with the original starter. So what I did was take the motor part of the original starter and swapped it onto the drive of the newer starter and it cranked right up and no more grinding either.

Yes, cranking speed is very important. To help with this I replaced my positive cable, installed a powermaster starter and 2 new Group 31 batteries. It turns over much better now.

I just never really trusted the stock GP setup. It works great when in good working order, but you really don’t know if it’s not in good working order until you need to to be strong in the cold.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nostrokes]

When all my plugs we're good 10 seconds once in 10 degree worked good little long on the starter but it would fire. Now that half the plugs don't work, just haven't had time to get new ones in it, 2 10 second cycles with no crank between worked good. Still spit and sputtered but started.

 

[ttman4]

I just cut & spliced my ground wire, ran it thru push button, then on to good ground. I turn key on, hit the button & the WTS lite comes on for 8-9-10 seconds. Generally I then hit the starter. If no crank fairly shortly, I then hit button for another 10 sec cycle. If it's very cold I may glow twice, then hit starter.

By going thru the push button there is no cycling after the button is released. & like I say, I have to turn on the key, then hit button & then watch the WTS lite & count to 8-9-10.

My ground wire I cut & spliced thru my button is the 4"-5"-6"ground wire (black IIRC) that comes from underneath the controller & then goes to ground.

& yes a good starter do help!!

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Well I'll throw in my two cents...

I've owned my rig for 12 years, had manual GPs for maybe 6-7 years. In the 100,000+ miles I've put on my pickup I've had 3 sets of gp's but none since I switched to manual.
One of those sets was when I first bought it.

I use about 8-10 seconds for any temperature over 50*. Like @Thewespaul my engine doesn't like any less than that.
And of course I give it more and more time as the temperature drops. When it's in the teens outside I'll give it 15 seconds, and ultimately up to 18 seconds if its colder than that.
Here in western WA it's only in the teens about a month at worst. So it's not like 3 months of this every winter. But my GPs are fine after 6 years like this.

I also do use a manual after glow, just hold the button down for 2 seconds, off for two, on for two, etc. Some days it seems to help and others not really at all. But the colder the more it seems to help.

I've kept those glow plugs(all Beru) I pulled out of my rig in the past and most of them still work fine, as it turns out. I hooked a few up straight to a battery to test amperage draw and durability.
One at a time, each plug slowly heated up and glowed. **I could not get them to burn out**. 3 different plugs, each one glowed till I got bored. 30 seconds, 2 mins, 5 mins. So I wouldn't be too worried about the GPs failing from over-use.

 

[YJMike92]

I found this in some Ford service information. It appears to me the right column is the appropriate times the glow plugs can be on at a particular temperature. Of course, you would only want them on as long as needed to get the engine running.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Runningaford]

Lotta good info so far; I've got the regular controller, but did splice the ground to a momentary switch under the steering wheel; just in case I need to do it manually. Another option is one of the more reputable gear reduction starters. Another option I think is fairly good, are the newer flat pancake heaters you glue directly to the bottom of the oil pan. Plug'er in for an hour, or 2, and your oil is warmed; no harsh starting.