Looking at Diff Lockers & LSD

m67tang

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So I have this dually F350 2wd automatic with open differential.
considering how to increase wheel traction since this truck does so many things for me; gravel, firewood, building materials, hauls mulch and soil, barns cleanouts a couple times per year.
Also I tow trailers a lot, Both my 12’ and 16’.
I sell and deliver a lot of firewood and sometimes this includes pulling behind a house to fill a wood shed. This is a concern with open diff.

I believe a Detroit Locker could be troublesome while towing?
That brings me to Limites Slip Differential options.
From what I’ve read, Seems the best rated is the Eaton TrueTrac. ?
I’m open to other suggestions. Just need something that will work on my dually.
Probably not wanting e-locker. ?
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IDIBOBS

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I’m be built 100s of trucks. I’ve towed with everything under the sun and for my own f you can swing the price the Detroit works great towing and off road. If you want an LS go with a geared ratcheting one not a clutch. Also what gears are you running if you’re not already running 410s on d slap those in as well. Your already doing bearings and set up
 

u2slow

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I use a lockright in both my trucks, for all purposes. One is 2wd.

What bothers me most about the LSDs is they give up when the going gets tough. My 95 F350 made me throw in the towel on them; worked great when empty. Was like an open diff with a load on.
 

Clb

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Drive a Detroit first.
They flat work, they have some ill manered handling issues in short wheel base rigs.
+1 on a geared unit.
But the holy grail is a selectable.....
Take a seat before you price 1.
 
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u2slow

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Drive a Detroit first.
They flat work, they have some ill manered handling issues in short wheel base rigs.
Once I adjusted to the quirks, no surprises. (and didn't take long). This is first-hand experience for 131-168" wheelbase. My '95 F350 crew got the Detroit treatment.

One thing I noticed is automatic trans don't let a locker release much. More control with a manual trans.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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I'm basically here to agree with the boys... I have a Detroit Locker in the rear of my F-250. The most I tow is maybe 7k but once the locker is "broken in" it's pretty smooth. The only issue with it is that it drives the INSIDE tire on turns, which of course always loses traction first and then they both lock in so it's a little goofy to get used to. Works fantastic for anything except cornering at speed with lots of skinny pedal, then it drifts very well.
LOL :peelout


I have the same wheel base as you do and it's behavior has never really been an issue, especially towing, though early on it does BANG when it un-loads pretty good. I have a 5-speed so it's easier to manipulate as stated above, though I don't really think about it.
If I was setting up an axle from zero I'd go with the TrueTrac, since they are close enough to the same price(or were the last time I checked). I don't have personal experience with it but they seem to be the best of all worlds as long as both tires are still on the ground.
 

u2slow

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If I was setting up an axle from zero I'd go with the TrueTrac, since they are close enough to the same price(or were the last time I checked). I don't have personal experience with it but they seem to be the best of all worlds as long as both tires are still on the ground.
My buddy had the factory 'true-trac' device in his common-rail dodge (6spd). Wasn't delivering the traction he wanted so he upgraded to a Grizzly. Usually drives light, but hauls a 24' fishing boat or 14k# equipment trailer as needed.
 

u2slow

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Dodge uses the "TracRite GT" as provided by AAM. It is also a Torsen type design.

Another friend got the Ford Motorsports branded Torsen for an Explorer years ago, and was quick to get rid of it after trying it out.

In both cases, the device did what it was supposed to - it just fell short of expectations/needs.

Edit: Torsen is the original maker/design. Now that the patent has run out, it is widely copied.
 

mexicanjoe

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I've got a factory limited slip diff running 4.10 gears. Even on ice I get pretty good traction. On the dirt roads at the ranch I have zero problems with it. I pull my 24' gooseneck and it handles just fine.
 

Black dawg

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I wouldnt say the detroit locker would be troublesome when towing, but, they for sure can be annoying at times, all the funny and not so funny noises they can make. Long wheelbase, and auto trans can make them not even noticeble, but even in short stuff, driving style can make them barely noticeable.

True tracs do work good, but do require some wheel spin to put power to the other side. I have put in quite a few, and they always surprise me how good they work for daily driver type stuff.

the factory trac loc preloaded clitch disc limited slip, works anywhere from not at all to pretty impressive. Would never try to sell anybody one.

Doesnt the superduty e locker work in the 10.25?
 

u2slow

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Doesnt the superduty e locker work in the 10.25?
Supposedly yes, lots of threads about it when you start googling. Pricing for a used one is highly variable.

Since driving with a Detroit or Lockright for close to 20 years, selectable sounds cumbersome to me.
 

david85

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Doesnt the superduty e locker work in the 10.25?

Affirmative. I'm running a factory ford E-Locker in my 1986 sterling 10.25" for about 2 years now. Moderate off-road use and no issues so far. Only problem so far is finding something similar for the front axle. I'm not impressed with the ramp mechanism on the Eaton E-Lockers.
 

Old Goat

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Thank you david85 for your wonderful write up on going through one of these.



Goat
 

parkergn

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Hey y’all, been looking into lockers my self. Spinning lots of tyres with my factory Dana 60 “limited slip” in the snow the last few weeks.

Would rebuilding the clutches help or be worth the time and money? Parts are cheapish

If not I’ll be saving up for Detroit Locker or TrueTrac.
 
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