Intercooler Install.......

[4x4TruckinGirl]

Quick question.... what all do you suppose would be involved in moving the fuel filter? is this an impossible feat? Given it's location if it were moved it'd be wayyyyyyy easier to get a nice air filter on there....... I've noticed most people i've seen have intercooled, either with the setup made for the truck or with a PSD intercooler but on the aftermarket ATS setup. Am i the only one crazy enough to do the PSD on the stock setup? I mean either way this is gunna work, I'm just trying to make it easier. Also, what kind of pressure are the hard lines going into the fuel filter seeing? thanks in advance guys!

 

[tractorman86]

i think you'll see like 7psi 10 tops if you have a epump. if you decide to move it give me a hollar and i'll build you a rubber line, bout 30 bucks shipped i think all that is involved is un bolting it and making new lines to and from the filter head.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

Okay, I guess you guys figured out by now that I finished well sort of finished the intercooler install on the hoss here...... I ran it to kentucky all hooked up..... I think i need to replace one of the elbows with a rubber boot instead under the hood, I need to get some pictures........... For all rights and purposes it works properly I think. I have noticed a decrease in top speed and RPM.... is this normal? I'm sorta topped out at 2500/2600 rpm.... my speedo died on the way home, no big deal there...... Am I just running out of fuel basically? I did modify the wastegate a little to hold it open longer, trick the turbo into a little more boost, and it ran a little better. I need to turn the pump up I think but I need to get gauges 1st... Im just tapped out right now.

Also one more thing, I sprung an oil leak under the hood, it appears to be coming from the pedestal area? Theres a drain of some sort there isnt there? Anyways, I guess thats why I havent taken pics yet, cause the top of my motor is covered in oil spray......... The leak under the truck has gotten a little worse also......... Any ideas?

Either way, intercooler install is a good thing to do, you need some patience and some custom fabbing.....

 

[FordGuy100]

With the engine cool check where the intake and exhaust turbo housings meet the center section of the turbo. Check them and make sure that no oil is coming from there.....I hope not.

Yes there is a drain that goes into the back of the valley pan behind the opening to the intake manifold is. There is also that rubber grommit that might have done something where the turbo sits onto its cast iron turbo pedistal.

 

[GenLightening]

Quick question.... what all do you suppose would be involved in moving the fuel filter? is this an impossible feat? Given it's location if it were moved it'd be wayyyyyyy easier to get a nice air filter on there.......

I'll take some shots of where I mounted mine. My hood is lower than the Fords, so it had to be moved. I went with -6 steel braided lines, because not only do they look cool, but I had a bunch sitting around.

I removed the plate that the filter mounts to, and that requires some spacers to keep the alt and vac pump lined up. Cleans up the top of the engine too.

 

[icanfixall]

On the adjustment for the boost. You posted you made an adjustment "to hold the wastegate open longer"??? That really backwards. As boost increases, more pressure is applied to the diaphram. As this increases the wastegate will start to open. Its always spring loaded in the closed position so. I hope this is what you did by increaseing the length of the rod that connects the gate to the diaphram. The more pressure on the gate the higher boost pressure you will see because it takes more pressure to open the spring loaded gate...

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

Yes, I had it backward then, I was afraid I did after reading what I wrote...... The guy who rebuilt my turbo said it would be fine once I had the intercooler up and running.


The rubber gromit thing you speak of... where is this? The turbo has been on and off and moved around quite a bit, I've had it off the pedistal probly three times here recently while doing the intercooler..... There is oil all on the valley pan and sort of sprayed on the top back part of the motor........ oil pressure is holding okay though...... This gromit though....

 

[FordGuy100]

Yes, I had it backward then, I was afraid I did after reading what I wrote...... The guy who rebuilt my turbo said it would be fine once I had the intercooler up and running.


The rubber gromit thing you speak of... where is this? The turbo has been on and off and moved around quite a bit, I've had it off the pedistal probly three times here recently while doing the intercooler..... There is oil all on the valley pan and sort of sprayed on the top back part of the motor........ oil pressure is holding okay though...... This gromit though....

First off, lets make sure we are thinking the same pedistal, some people get it wrong. If were on the same level the pedistal should mean where the turbo mounts to the cast iron kinda y shaped piece, and is held onto it with 2 studs and bolts on the bottom of the turbo. Well where they come together, there is supposed to be a rubber grommit that fits into a grove in the pedistal. If you dont get it on there good, you could pinching that grommit which would make the turbo not tighten down all the way, which would mean oil would spray.


I should warn you.....before my turbo let go it was flinging oil just like yours is........

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

I just had the turbo rebuilt, so Im not worried about that........... I just have had it moved around quite a bit, especially messing with this intercooler, getting the intake snail on n' off, etc.... so this rubber gromit sounds to be the issue..... I have no idea how or where it goes, but i can get it off the pedistal pretty easy now, ive done it enough times..... does anyone know where i can see an illustration of this? Thanks justin, think youre on the right track here....

 

[FordGuy100]

I just had the turbo rebuilt, so Im not worried about that........... I just have had it moved around quite a bit, especially messing with this intercooler, getting the intake snail on n' off, etc.... so this rubber gromit sounds to be the issue..... I have no idea how or where it goes, but i can get it off the pedistal pretty easy now, ive done it enough times..... does anyone know where i can see an illustration of this? Thanks justin, think youre on the right track here....

Are you getting them tightened down good? You might need to pull the turbo off, and install the studs into the turbo itself, then put it onto the pedistal, and bolt it down. I rememeber doing something, and the studs came out some, and when I went to tighten it down, it didnt really get tight.

Just a warning, maybe to scare you a little bit......it probably isnt the case but my turbo only had 1000 miles after a rebuild when it let go. Thats why I said check where the housings meet the center section for an oil leak.

 

[typ4]

I am picky about terminology, grommet= the part that goes into the valley pan.
O-ring= between the pedestal and the turbo base.
The larger intercooler does give a little lag ,but not much, I have an '00 intercooler that I cut down in mine now and it does pick up boost quicker and lets more air across the radiator.


Sam, your lack of rpm is probably the throttle cable being disturbed , check for full travel.
Here is a pic of mine cut down.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

Hmmm..... I checked the throttle cable, it didn't look disturbed, but what can I do to adjust it? '


If for some reason it is the turbo..... the guy would redo it again, but I dont believe this to be the case.......... Ok I believe the leak is coming from under the turbo, where the 2 bolts hold it down (the pedestal i believe) That seems like the only culprit...... so this from what your saying russ, would be the "o ring" and not the grommit, correct?

 

[Diesel JD]

The lack of RPM is NOT from the turbo being bad or the intercooler being too much. The way to check the throttle for sure is to pull it and the cruise cable off the side of your pump, then open the throttle until it stops, you should be able to get 99-100% of this travel with your pedal and cable, I'm not real sure how to adjust it if its out. Good luck

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I had to adjust the cables on my truck, one cause the pedal one was stretched and pedal was hitting the floor without reaching WOT at the IP, and two cause it was a bit too low for my liking anyways, even when in its fully up position. So what I did was bend the bracket that attaches to the intake and that holds the ends of the cable housings, stock setup kinda sucks anywas so most trucks I've seen needed some help in that department - I bent my bracket so it moves the cables a bit towards the valve cover, and quite a bit towards the rear of the engine - now the cables need to pull further out in order to reach the IP lever, which results in either taking up the slack from them being old and stretched, or translates to a pedal lift in the cab, depending on how much you bent the bracket. If you wanna lift your pedal too just keep in mind there's a small tab in the bracket that holds the pedal to the floorboard, that tab limits how high the pedal can lift and needs bent slightly for you to obtain higher pedal.

 

[typ4]

Hmmm..... I checked the throttle cable, it didn't look disturbed, but what can I do to adjust it? '


If for some reason it is the turbo..... the guy would redo it again, but I dont believe this to be the case.......... Ok I believe the leak is coming from under the turbo, where the 2 bolts hold it down (the pedestal i believe) That seems like the only culprit...... so this from what your saying russ, would be the "o ring" and not the grommit, correct?

yes, thats the o-ring, parts store item, well should be.