Installed Dreg's Garage's brass return caps

nelstomlinson

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And it looks pretty good. The caps look like jewelry, and they seem to fit just right.

The finished product:
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I was smelling hot diesel while I was plowing, so I looked on top of the engine and saw that a couple of the glow plugs were swimming. I figured I could deal with the leaks, or wait and deal with the fire, so when I got a chance to stop plowing I put it into the shop and got to work.

I got the layout for a turbo engine, so I had to adapt things a little to make that work on the NA engine in the '91 plow truck. The NA engines have a tee mounted on the left rear of the block, and that wasn't going to work with the crossover moved to the #3-#4 cylinders. I abandoned the tee in place, and attached the 5/16 hose which runs back to the tank directly to the back return cap. I zip tied the hose firmly to the abandoned tee, and I used a screw clamp to compress the 5/16 hose onto the 1/4 barb.

The tee, before I removed the 5/16 hose:
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Other than not being able to use the tee, there weren't any issues at all with installing the new brass caps.

I noticed that the fitting on the filter housing which connects to the return line has a plastic plug in it with a tiny hole:
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I haven't started it up and looked for leaks yet, but assuming they all seal, I'll be very happy with them.
 

atc92

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looks great, where can I purchase a set? I want to redo my plastic caps (original 130K miles on them). Im not sure if I need new injectors? or how long injectors last?

Id like to replace the rubber lines and o rings to seal things up well. Im having a strange idle issue where sometimes it like to idle at 100 instead of 500.

Also the NA motor looks so much easier to work on than the turbo setup. So much room in there.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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And it looks pretty good. The caps look like jewelry, and they seem to fit just right.

The finished product:
You must be registered for see images attach


I was smelling hot diesel while I was plowing, so I looked on top of the engine and saw that a couple of the glow plugs were swimming. I figured I could deal with the leaks, or wait and deal with the fire, so when I got a chance to stop plowing I put it into the shop and got to work.

I got the layout for a turbo engine, so I had to adapt things a little to make that work on the NA engine in the '91 plow truck. The NA engines have a tee mounted on the left rear of the block, and that wasn't going to work with the crossover moved to the #3-#4 cylinders. I abandoned the tee in place, and attached the 5/16 hose which runs back to the tank directly to the back return cap. I zip tied the hose firmly to the abandoned tee, and I used a screw clamp to compress the 5/16 hose onto the 1/4 barb.

The tee, before I removed the 5/16 hose:
You must be registered for see images attach


Other than not being able to use the tee, there weren't any issues at all with installing the new brass caps.

I noticed that the fitting on the filter housing which connects to the return line has a plastic plug in it with a tiny hole:
You must be registered for see images attach


I haven't started it up and looked for leaks yet, but assuming they all seal, I'll be very happy with them.
The brass fitting on the filter is for purging air in the fuel line. Air will go out that tiny hole to the return system easily but it will bypass only a little liquid-- a pretty good idea really. The plastic plug inside should have a spring behind it and is a check ball to keep the fuel from draining back after shut down.

Only thing besides leaks to pay attention to is if it runs poorly at WOT. The IP bypasses a lot of fuel and if the fuel cannot run through the return tees fast enough it will create pressure which will jack with your timing. I had that happen when I switched to the smaller return caps once and bypassed the dedicated return line. You'll likely be fine but I just wanted to mention it.
 

nelstomlinson

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My '89 crewcab doesn't have that nifty plastic plug, and I was having terrible problems with air leaks in that one. I finally removed that return line from the filter on that one.

Is there a source for the proper fitting with the holey check valve? I'd like to get one for the '89.
 

mf7lakes

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If you use the fuel heater delete kit from Classic Diesel Design, it comes with a metal plug to get rid of that return line (plastic plug) off the filter head
 

Lumberjackchuck

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I’m looking into getting a set of these or R&D’s return rail. How have these held up?

If you want ease of maintenance, go with the brass caps. I have the R&D fuel rails and they are beautiful and work nice but are a pain in the ass to install.

Having to remove and trouble shoot a single injector becomes a big chore with the fuel rails, which I’ve had to do several times already.
 

Minuteman96

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I’m looking into getting a set of these or R&D’s return rail. How have these held up?
Wouldn’t recommend grabbing a set of the rails for the exact same reason stated above. Seriously, they’re a nightmare to install/reinstall, but if you’re stubborn and end up wanting a pair of them, I’ll give you mine for 100$. Reach out if interested.
 
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