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I'm back in the IDI game!

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by homelessduck, Apr 16, 2020.

  1. homelessduck

    homelessduck Full Access Member

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    I thought that at first but it did the same thing to a non-rusty side too :dunno . I will be replacing the pushrods and lifters , but hoping to salvage the rockers.
     
  2. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    You could always media blast those to keep the pitting down. Pull them apart and you can blast the pieces individually and make sure that you remove all of the rust that way.
     
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  3. homelessduck

    homelessduck Full Access Member

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    Well farts.. 20200814_125949.jpg
     
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  4. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Man! That sucks. That MUST be related to your burned off glow plugs. The only little good news that I can see here is that it appears to be a standard piston in your picture. It's hard to tell for sure. It appears that there's some cross hatch left in your cylinder too. A rebuild would be a good excuse to buy new rockers and push rods. Not like you were wanting to hear that. My biggest thought here is that maybe the water in the oil is related to the rust on the upper end and wasn't the oil cooler after all?
     
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  5. homelessduck

    homelessduck Full Access Member

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    I agree, must be related. I don't see any size stamps on the pistons so I'm assuming they are standard bore , though I also don't see STD on them. The bore is pretty scored up on that cylinder. I don't think the oil cooler leaked. I'm wondering if some of the piston smacked and cracked the head. I can't see any obvious signs of a head gasket failing. I think at this point , unless the bottom end looks GREAT, I will find a good running ( hopefully ) used engine.
     
  6. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    I don't think they always say STD for standard. I'm pretty sure that the oversize is always on the pistons.
     
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  7. YJMike92

    YJMike92 Full Access Member

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    The only problem with that thought is there aren't too many engines as old as these with a lot of life left in them. Maybe sleave the cylinder and do a rebuild
     
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  8. aggiediesel01

    aggiediesel01 Full Access Member

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    I don't think a chunk came out of that piston. I think it got hot and started to flow, it looks more melted than impacted. Doesn't this truck have really low miles? I think I'd try getting a new standard or maybe try to find a standard + piston and see if the wall will hone out. I don't think you have to go for perfection here. Did you run a compression test on it before you pulled it? If so, how low was this one? If not that far out, a new piston and bore polish might bring it right back into the game. As Wes has demonstrated with his various projects, these engines can run pretty well with all kinds of maladies and if you can minimize the problem here you might be smiles and dollars ahead.

    Also, try the WD40 Rust Soak on the lifters. I've had great luck with that stuff.
     
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  9. homelessduck

    homelessduck Full Access Member

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    You are right, it most definitely melted. But there was some piston material stuck to the head. I didn't try to remove it so I don't know how bad it is stuck to it. I was in a hurry to get them to the machine shop. This truck has 87k miles on it. I did do a compression test prior to pulling it. They were all above 450lbs except for this one, which was around 200. I will hopefully have time this evening to take a look at the bottom end. I'll give the wd40 soak a shot!
     
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  10. homelessduck

    homelessduck Full Access Member

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    20200817_165205.jpg 20200817_165214.jpg 20200817_165219.jpg 20200817_165224.jpg
     
  11. Dane Rickford

    Dane Rickford Full Access Member

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    I don’t know if this is any help, but I have a parts engine I’ve been trying to sell, but if you want I could just pull the rockers and pushrods and make you a deal on them. I don’t know if you need lifters but I have those too
     
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  12. laserjock

    laserjock Almost there... Supporting Member

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  13. homelessduck

    homelessduck Full Access Member

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    So the machine shop called the other day. One head is cracked , probably on that melted down cylinder. We will see when I go pick them up. But , I did pick up a replacement engine the other day . The guy I bought it from rebuilt it for a project , then changed direction with the project. One small issue... He broke a flywheel bolt off in the rear of the crank. It is flush, nothing to grab. He tried to remove it before I got there by cutting a slit in it , which unfortunately made it worse. Now I can't get a punch on it and the drill bit just walks and will not bite. Any suggestions??
     
  14. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    Make up a jig to hold a drill rock solid steady. Then use a tiny end mill bit instead of a drill bit.To make a pilot hole or indentation, at least. Then used bullet nosed drill bits until you have enough of the bolt drilled out that you can get the rest out, otherwise.
     
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  15. homelessduck

    homelessduck Full Access Member

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    Thanks! I'll give that a shot. Here is what I'm working with :
    20200903_120712.jpg
     

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