I'm back in the IDI game!

[homelessduck]

I put a magnet to it , it is definitely metal.

 

[homelessduck]

I guess you could pull one main and rod cap and see what it looks like. Could the grit possibly from rust caused by moisture/condensation? Perhaps the engine sat in an area with high humidity. It's amazing how nasty things can get when left for a while.

Definitely not rust. It's metal shavings / grit. He cut the bottom of the pan off to clearance it for his project , and never finished it. I'm thinking he must have cut the pan with it on the engine.

 

[YJMike92]

It definitely requires further inspection. If it was my engine I'd be having the sinking oh sh** feeling about now.
There shouldn't be anything like that in a new motor.

 

[YJMike92]

The pan cutting would leave that kind of residue. And that's what it looks like now that you mention it. Maybe clean her out whit a bunch of brake clean, look at a rod and main bearing and see what they look like. If they look good it might be good to go

 

[homelessduck]

It definitely requires further inspection. If it was my engine I'd be having the sinking oh sh** feeling about now.
There shouldn't be anything like that in a new motor.

Oh I am definitely having that I'm f'ed feeling. The main reason I bought it and didn't rebuild mine is because I don't have a clean shop to assemble a bottom end in. I live in the mountains with a long dirt driveway that dusts everything out. So it's looking like I have to disassemble it and clean everything out , and reassemble the bottom end after all . I don't see how I could effectively get all of that metal out. It's everywhere.

 

[homelessduck]

I just talked to him again. He said he pulled the pan for the first cut , but the engine was right beside the bench , upside down. He checked fitment, and cut more off the pan. But the second time he left it on. So that makes sense. It definitely looks like metal / cut off disk material. It wasn't fired after that. So now I just have to figure out how to clean it all out.

 

[YJMike92]

Get a case of brake clean put the engine right side up. Spray the whole inside of the bottom from every angle imaginable. Better put your hazmat suit on you'll be wearing it.

 

[homelessduck]

Get a case of brake clean put the engine right side up. Spray the whole inside of the bottom from every angle imaginable. Better put your hazmat suit on you'll be wearing it.

That should be fun haha.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I have no experience with this sort of thing but @Thewespaul has mentioned that during oil changes he fills the crankcase up to normal level with diesel, lets it sit overnight and drains it out the next day, which get all manner of crud out. (I've tried it once and will probably always do this especially with my Volvos that gum up like crazy from PCV valve issues).

**this could be totally wrong, but:**
So my thought is instead of spending $100 on brake clean and a hazmat suit, could you put the pan on and fill it up with diesel to get more places? Like fill it up until pistons are touching the diesel. Maybe roll it over by hand a couple times. The brake clean will strip the oil off of everything it touches. I figure you'll be ahead of the game in lubricity with the diesel.

Or for that matter, spray it down with diesel! It's not the solvent you need, its the washing.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

**this could be totally wrong, but:**
So my thought is instead of spending $100 on brake clean and a hazmat suit, could you put the pan on and fill it up with diesel to get more places? Like fill it up until pistons are touching the diesel. Maybe roll it over by hand a couple times. The brake clean will strip the oil off of everything it touches. I figure you'll be ahead of the game in lubricity with the diesel.

Or for that matter, spray it down with diesel! It's not the solvent you need, its the washing.

I agree so completely with this that I was going to suggest something similar before I read this. After you drain the diesel, pull the pan back off, check for metal shavings, and then, if it's pretty clean, you can pull a rod and main cap to check the bearings. If it's not clean enough for you, repeat the above procedure. While the diesel is inside it, you can even tip the engine to one side and then the other to help put a kind of "slosh" to the diesel to help wash the metal shavings off of things. All is not lost with this engine.

 

[hacked89]

X2 what @IDIBRONCO said.
Fill it with diesel.
The only places I use brake kleen on an engine are on mating surfaces that are being prepped for RTV because any oil and grease needs to be stripped.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[homelessduck]

Wow , really? I always thought diesel wrecked bearings.. I have a ton of diesel , I'll give it a shot! To fill it up passed the pan I'll have to seal the pan. But I'll just use a cork gasket. It should seal it good enough.

 

[YJMike92]

Wow , really? I always thought diesel wrecked bearings.. I have a ton of diesel , I'll give it a shot! To fill it up passed the pan I'll have to seal the pan. But I'll just use a cork gasket. It should seal it good enough.

Filling the crankcase that full of diesel will wash the oil from the bearings. It doesn't sound like a bad idea for cleaning the crankcase. You would want to pressurize the lubricating system with oil prior to starting.
Prelubricating the oil system is not a bad idea under any circumstance.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

But I'll just use a cork gasket. It should seal it good enough.

Don't forget to put some bolts in the back of the crankshaft. Those are through holes. The diesel won't hurt the bearings themselves, just the oil film on them like YJMike92 said.

 

[homelessduck]

Don't forget to put some bolts in the back of the crankshaft. Those are through holes. The diesel won't hurt the bearings themselves, just the oil film on them like YJMike92 said.

I absolutely would have forgot to do that