First off, I'd like to say thank you to Hypermax for the high quality made in America product!
This is a really simple installation project. I'm definitely no professional metal fabrication specialist, and I was able to do this start to finish in less than two hours.
First, remove your stock intake inlet. Next, place the plastic cowl induction horn on the firewall, grab a Sharpie and mark the inside of the horn on the firewall. (I had to grind off about 3/16" of material from the bottom of the horn so that it would clear the lip on the firewall.) On my firewall, I had to cut some of the sound suppression material away and I had to remove a vacuum line/wire harness holder:
Next, cut the firewall. I don't have a torch or plasma cutter, but I've got a 4 1/2" grinder! Here's what the area looked like after I made the two horizontal cuts:
After trying to use a Dremel tool with a wheel for the vertical cuts, I reshaped one of the many cutoff wheels I've got for my 4 1/2" grinder so it was small enough to make the vertical cuts. The inboard cut was fine, but even with my smaller cutoff wheel, I couldn't position my grinder to be able to make the outboard cut. After monkeying with the metal for a couple of minutes, trying to figure out what to do, I just worried it until it broke. Not the best way to cut metal, but it worked.
The plastic horn came without holes predrilled, so I carefully laid them out and drilled the horn, then marked their position on the firewall with my trusty Sharpie. The outboard two and the top inboard one were a piece of cake to drill, but the bottom inboard hole was angled so that I really had to hammer on the firewall with a punch to be able to make a big enough mark to start the drillbit with. The only thing about the kit that was kinda chintzy were the screws. They're not of a very high quality. Fortunately, I had some panhead 1" wood screws laying around that worked great. Hypermax includes a sticky black adhesive to apply to the firewall side of the horn. I just stuck it to the horn and maneuvered it into place. After that, you've just got to spin on the ductwork. I spun on the air cleaner side end and manhandled the cowl induction horn side on:
So far I've put about 230 miles on the truck, and I really like the sound improvement. Much more throaty intake sound. On my truck, the PO had a set of headers with long glasspacks installed but had left the intake stock. This cowl induction mod has made the exhaust note slightly throatier.
All in all, I'd recommend this mod to anyone with $100 and a couple of hours to spare.
EDIT: I just remembered, I also installed a drilled-out air cleaner hat that had the soup bowl removed (you can see it in the third picture). My thinking is that more air = more power. However, this will draw in (a small amount of) hot air from the engine bay. Is this a good idea?
This is a really simple installation project. I'm definitely no professional metal fabrication specialist, and I was able to do this start to finish in less than two hours.
First, remove your stock intake inlet. Next, place the plastic cowl induction horn on the firewall, grab a Sharpie and mark the inside of the horn on the firewall. (I had to grind off about 3/16" of material from the bottom of the horn so that it would clear the lip on the firewall.) On my firewall, I had to cut some of the sound suppression material away and I had to remove a vacuum line/wire harness holder:
You must be registered for see images attach
Next, cut the firewall. I don't have a torch or plasma cutter, but I've got a 4 1/2" grinder! Here's what the area looked like after I made the two horizontal cuts:
You must be registered for see images attach
After trying to use a Dremel tool with a wheel for the vertical cuts, I reshaped one of the many cutoff wheels I've got for my 4 1/2" grinder so it was small enough to make the vertical cuts. The inboard cut was fine, but even with my smaller cutoff wheel, I couldn't position my grinder to be able to make the outboard cut. After monkeying with the metal for a couple of minutes, trying to figure out what to do, I just worried it until it broke. Not the best way to cut metal, but it worked.
The plastic horn came without holes predrilled, so I carefully laid them out and drilled the horn, then marked their position on the firewall with my trusty Sharpie. The outboard two and the top inboard one were a piece of cake to drill, but the bottom inboard hole was angled so that I really had to hammer on the firewall with a punch to be able to make a big enough mark to start the drillbit with. The only thing about the kit that was kinda chintzy were the screws. They're not of a very high quality. Fortunately, I had some panhead 1" wood screws laying around that worked great. Hypermax includes a sticky black adhesive to apply to the firewall side of the horn. I just stuck it to the horn and maneuvered it into place. After that, you've just got to spin on the ductwork. I spun on the air cleaner side end and manhandled the cowl induction horn side on:
You must be registered for see images attach
So far I've put about 230 miles on the truck, and I really like the sound improvement. Much more throaty intake sound. On my truck, the PO had a set of headers with long glasspacks installed but had left the intake stock. This cowl induction mod has made the exhaust note slightly throatier.
All in all, I'd recommend this mod to anyone with $100 and a couple of hours to spare.
EDIT: I just remembered, I also installed a drilled-out air cleaner hat that had the soup bowl removed (you can see it in the third picture). My thinking is that more air = more power. However, this will draw in (a small amount of) hot air from the engine bay. Is this a good idea?
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