How do you get to the steering box adjustment!

[gerlbaum]

Out of curiosity, do they make a steering box reinforcement plate like they do with Chevys that all seem to suffer from this? Not saying I can't just make one out of 3/16 or 1/4 plate but the Chevy ones also include a bar to triangulate that corner.

This is the ORD one for Chevy trucks:

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

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[gerlbaum]

Here is a pic of a weld in Chevy frame repair plate (also from ORD):

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[Christian9112]

I have had three rebuilts, all sloppy. I destroyed one in the driveway by over tightening.[/QUOTE]

how did it fail? I am concerned that I over tighten mine. how do you know its over tightened?

 

[raydav]

I have had three rebuilts, all sloppy. I destroyed one in the driveway by over tightening.

how did it fail? I am concerned that I over tighten mine. how do you know its over tightened?[/QUOTE]

It was binding and I could not back it off.

 

[Christian9112]

how did it fail? I am concerned that I over tighten mine. how do you know its over tightened?

It was binding and I could not back it off.[/QUOTE]

binding? as in, you feel it resisting the torque youre putting on the steering wheel while turning?

 

[raydav]

It was binding and I could not back it off.

binding? as in, you feel it resisting the torque youre putting on the steering wheel while turning?[/QUOTE]

Yes

 

[franklin2]

I have never adjusted a steering box mounted in any car or truck and had any positive results. There is another adjustment also, and all these adjustments are properly made with the box out of the vehicle.

A very common problem is the steering can get off-center. All these types of boxes are designed to be tighter in the center for good tight steering while going straight down the road, and the gear mesh is designed to be loose on either side for easier parking lot steering.

It's very easy for a lazy alignment guy to straighten a steering wheel that has been installed wrong by turning both tie rod ends. This makes the steering wheel level in the cab, but it offsets the steering box, so you are driving straight down the road in the "loose" area of the steering box.

When you adjust the box too tight, you can feel this designed in tight area of the box as you pass through it when turning the wheel. You should be driving straight in this tight spot area.

 

[Christian9112]

I can feel the powersteering "back off" if i keep pressure towards left or right. I feel like its electronic control that is doing this. If I turn the wheel to the left/right and keep the torque constant, the steering assist would "let go". when I put more torque, it goes back easy. I am not sure if this is normal.

 

[Cubey]

Out of town for the moment, will have another crack at it next week.

Meanwhile, are there any tips & tricks for removing the steering box? (I do know the basics of disconnecting everything that goes to the box first)

It looks like removing the left front wheel and working through the gap in the fender liner will give the best access to the PS lines and the rag joint clamp. Thoughts?

I'd also like to replace the rag joint while I'm in there but have read that some replacements don't fit?

I did my gearbox from below. No need to take off a wheel.

Rag joint was in the Help! Section are oreillys. I had to hack it with a box cutter, as I recall. I also had to get a machine shop to drill out the old studs in the shaft. Now it’s held together with bolts and nylon insert lock nuts.

 

[Cubey]

I have never adjusted a steering box mounted in any car or truck and had any positive results. There is another adjustment also, and all these adjustments are properly made with the box out of the vehicle.

A very common problem is the steering can get off-center. All these types of boxes are designed to be tighter in the center for good tight steering while going straight down the road, and the gear mesh is designed to be loose on either side for easier parking lot steering.

It's very easy for a lazy alignment guy to straighten a steering wheel that has been installed wrong by turning both tie rod ends. This makes the steering wheel level in the cab, but it offsets the steering box, so you are driving straight down the road in the "loose" area of the steering box.

When you adjust the box too tight, you can feel this designed in tight area of the box as you pass through it when turning the wheel. You should be driving straight in this tight spot area.

Hmm wish I could picture that in my mind or see a visual representation.

 

[264WSM]

I have never adjusted a steering box mounted in any car or truck and had any positive results. There is another adjustment also, and all these adjustments are properly made with the box out of the vehicle.

A very common problem is the steering can get off-center. All these types of boxes are designed to be tighter in the center for good tight steering while going straight down the road, and the gear mesh is designed to be loose on either side for easier parking lot steering.

It's very easy for a lazy alignment guy to straighten a steering wheel that has been installed wrong by turning both tie rod ends. This makes the steering wheel level in the cab, but it offsets the steering box, so you are driving straight down the road in the "loose" area of the steering box.

When you adjust the box too tight, you can feel this designed in tight area of the box as you pass through it when turning the wheel. You should be driving straight in this tight spot area.

I have been a victim of this and didn't know why - Good info!!

 

[Fixnstuff]

My truck was pulling slightly to the right after installing new Moog tie rod ends and an alignment at Less Schwab Tire Co.. The technician also corrected the Steering wheel to be centered as it had been off by about 5-10 degrees since I bought the truck 3 years ago.

I took it back to them for an inspection about 8 months later to see if they could detect why it was slightly pulling to the right AND this symptom: When turning LEFT all the way to the end point and proceeding from a stop to make a U-turn (wich I have to do every day to get out iof my parking space) I feel a sort of single "bump" as I am pulling forward like I ran over a 2x4 board and some slight scrubbing of one of the tires on the pavement.

The results of their inspection: "The steering gearbox is SHOT." I asked if it could be adjusted and he said "NO, It has to be REPLACED." I trusted this guy because he is one of the older mechanics who work there and he obviously has a lot of experience working on trucks.

I have a new "Remanufactured" "Ford" steering gear here in a box awaiting the time to install it. I ordered it from Rock Auto Parts and I didn't choose the lesser expensive ones. I usually like rebuilt parts from A-1 Cardone but this time I had reasons to chose the one offered by AC DELCO for $105. plus $75. core charge. It's supposed to be all adjusted, centered and ready to install.

The reason I posted is to advise that you CAN have it inspected at Les Schwab, at no cost to see if it is still adjustable and since you are probably going to need an alignment anyway, (certainly if it is replaced you will) then maybe they can adjust it and do the alignment on the same visit. However, It would take someone with experience to know if it is too far gone to be adjustable.

That might help someone reading this topic.

 

[79jasper]

It can also be a liability reason/policy to just replace instead of adjust.

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[david85]

That adjustment is for backlash of the gears to remove slack. Centering the steering wheel is done by adjusting the tie rod end sleeves.

If the box was in fact making a hard bump when exiting a tight turn, then I can certainly see why the mechanic wanted to replace rather than adjust. If that box locked up on you down the road, who would get blamed for it?

In most cases, adjusting the blacklash on the steering box will not solve the problem of loose steering. Usually the problem is elsewhere. Adjusting it too tight also introduces friction that can make things worse because it requires a larger input from the driver before the box "breaks free" and transmits movement to the front tires. It can also cause poor return to center, which negatively affects lane tracking performance.

I'm not saying to never attempt adjusting the steering box, but don't over do it. Some slack is normal and necessary. Excessive play is usually from worn ball joints or steering knuckles.

 

[DrCharles]

That adjustment is for backlash of the gears to remove slack. Centering the steering wheel is done by adjusting the tie rod end sleeves.

Only after counting turns from lock to lock and turning the steering wheel exactly half that number of turns back towards the center. Otherwise the box will not be in the "high spot" on the worm which is what it's designed to do when going straight ahead.