Help with E4OD shift issues and FIPL replacement

[jc9793]

Hoping someone might be able to lend some assistance. I recently completed a manual pushbutton glowplug conversion and when I test drove afterward, the transmission was shifting funny. Engages all gears, but it seems as if the torque converter is dropping in and out periodically. The OD light is not flashing and there are no codes on the OBD-1 scanner. After research here and over on FTE, I thought maybe it was the VSS so that was replaced...still doing it. Tachometer and Speedometer seem fine. So I'm in the process of replacing the FIPL/TPS...which is where I need some help I think. Used voltmeter to check numbers. The middle wire is 1.45v at idle and 5.20v at WOT....I guess it's not going into limp mode with those numbers because the bottom wire measures 6.2v. Any thoughts on why the signal might be that high and how I could get it to within specs? And any other thoughts on things to check that might be causing the tranny quirkiness?

Thanks much in advance.

 

[gandalf]

Try dropping the middle wire on the FIPL to 1.1v, key on engine off.

 

[jc9793]

Thanks much for the quick reply. I'll try that again and see how low I can get it. I actually tried to adjust by loosening the two T15 screws and could only lower it to 1.3 within the narrow range those screws allow. The heads on the two T27 screws that mount the bracket to the IP are filled with epoxy so I can't loosen the bracket to gain more adjustment.

 

[Thewespaul]

Use a pick and heat gun to get the epoxy out so you can adjust it back into range

 

[jc9793]

Sounds like a plan.

Any concern that the reference signal is over 6 volts instead of closer to 5?

 

[Thewespaul]

Check your battery voltage, if it’s higher than normal it could affect your reference voltage.

 

[icanfixall]

The wide open voltage is too high. You cannot have 5.0 volts or higher because that will cause the trans to get into limp home mode. Hopefully you still have the old flp switch. Look closely at the drive end where the tab from the throttle shaft fits.See the way the tab fit into the switch.You MUST fit the new switch the same way. Now when you adjust voltage try for 1.2 volts key on engine not running. Wide open voltage really is dependent on the idle setting key on engine off.You need the engine warmed up to make this voltage adjustment too. Factory setting is .96 for a very sift shift to 1.3 for a firmer shift. The bracket the flp switch attaches to is completely adjustable. No real adjustment is found with the switch to the mounting plate.The center wire is where you measure the .96 to 1.2 volts.No other wire means anything for adjustments.

 

[jc9793]

Looks like my next action is to get a better multimeter; looks like the one I have may be out of calibration which is skewing results . My resting battery voltage reads 15.45; I checked another vehicle and it reads 15+ volts as well, so that doesn't sound right at all. I'll check back when I have better equipment. I feel dumb now. Thanks for your help and patience though .

 

[gandalf]

Looks like my next action is to get a better multimeter; looks like the one I have may be out of calibration which is skewing results . ....

Out of calibration is a possibility. With that in mind I'd suggest not making any further adjustments until you have a more reliable multimeter. I wouldn't touch it again until that point.

I too have had an out of calibration multimeter. I was having a bit of problem with my computer and did a pinout reading on the power supply, maybe ~15 pins. Every pin read high. That would cause the problem, so I went out and bought a new power supply, a good one, and installed it. A while later I tested the house voltage, and found that my house was apparently running on 142 volts. I went out and bought a new multimeter.

 

[jc9793]

Happy New Year! I got the FIPL installed and set. After borrowing a better multimeter, the Reference voltage is 5.0 volts and the FIPL measures 1.21v at idle and 4.16v at WOT. However, that doesn't seem to help my issue. Took it for a 5 mile test drive; still seems to shift ok but when cruising along at ~55mph and 1500RPM and steady load (no changes in "go" peddle), the RPMs will occasionally increase a couple hundred and then drop back down pretty quickly. Feels like something is slipping. I assume that is the TC disengaging and engaging? Thoughts on what might cause that?

 

[snicklas]

I would check you electrical. Also, make sure all your brake lights are working (both in the tail lights and the 3rd brake light on the back of the cab (if equipped)). Have you switched the stop/turn/tail lights to LED's?

Take a look at this thread:

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/testing-e4od-solenoid-pack-and-code-referrence.70217/

Check the condition of the solenoid plug on the transmission. The E4OD is finicky when it comes to electrical.....

 

[retiredinhomer]

did you replace the FIPL or just adjust the old one ?

 

[jc9793]

All the lights are working well; no LED conversions...all stock. I'll check the solenoid plug next; it has been VERY wet lately, so something electrical down there wouldn't surprise me. Thanks for the link....I'll give it a look.

The FIPL sensor is a new one. I have no idea when it was changed last so thought I'd start with a new one in case the old one had any dead spots in it. I also got a new wiring harness for it, but haven't switched that out yet.

 

[trackspeeder]

Happy New Year! I got the FIPL installed and set. After borrowing a better multimeter, the Reference voltage is 5.0 volts and the FIPL measures 1.21v at idle and 4.16v at WOT. However, that doesn't seem to help my issue. Took it for a 5 mile test drive; still seems to shift ok but when cruising along at ~55mph and 1500RPM and steady load (no changes in "go" peddle), the RPMs will occasionally increase a couple hundred and then drop back down pretty quickly. Feels like something is slipping. I assume that is the TC disengaging and engaging? Thoughts on what might cause that?

You have assumed correctly. The TCM is getting a faulty signal from the TPS (FIPL) or VSS.

Another cause for your problem is a failing Transmission Range Sensor. (MLPS) Something else to look at.