FIPL Smokeshow

Dirtleg

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Okay on a road trip. In the SLC area and trans is shifting way, way too early. This in turn creates a ridiculous Smokeshow. Plus I've acquired a 6x10 enclosed trailer and another motorcycle on this trip and the early shifting is causing stupid high EGT's when I lose boost due to the untimely upshift.

I just replaced my FIPL a week ago due to the other one failing.

So checking voltages at max adjustment they are 1.16 at idle and 3.99 WOT. This is with the FIPL bracket turned all the way counter clockwise.

I'm attempting to reclock the FIPL actuator on the IP throttle shaft and am concerned due to the one set screw having a pin that engages the hole in the shaft. I'm just going to rotate it and lock it down with the set screws. Anyone have a legit reason I should not do this? I'd like my range to be near the 1.35V at idle no more than 4.5V max.

Anyhoo I'm going to do it and will report back good or bad.
 

Dirtleg

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Update.

Worked beautifully. Set idle to 1.35V. WOT is 4.22V.

Test drive. Went and climbed some hills around here. Went up towards Snowbird. Revs out further before shifting but doesn't drop out of the boost range when doing so. And if you do need to step into it and revs are too low it downshifts with minimal smoke creation.

Shifts are firmer but not bad. Egt's are so much lower that engine temp stays lower as well. I've been having to drive around with the OD off and manually regulating the 2 - 3 shift in town. Now I don't have to worry about it.

I think my permanent fix will be to add 2 more tapped holes to the FIPL bracket that give a second range of adjustment and reclock the actuator knob back to it's original position.

I should mention I wrapped the crossover pipe with heat shield wrap and wired the Watergate closed as well this morning. But I haven't worked it hard enough for any of that to have affected my test drive. Never saw over 3lbs boost. Adding the trailer will change all that.

Anyway, truck is much more drive able than before.
 

BeastMaster

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Thanks for the tip on the voltages!

I had to replace my FIPL sensor too.

It still flashes the OD light on the transmission shift lever when I idle, but stops when I accelerate. Not near as bad as it was, but still isn't quite right. The old one was definitely bad, as confirmed on my old Triplett 630 VOM. Very noisy.

I need to insert a voltage monitor tap in the TPS line. My friend's scan tool doesn't say much, other than the TPS is out of range. Won't say which way or how much.
 

Nero

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Why not set the fipl with the shims at 0.515?
 

Dirtleg

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Thanks for the tip on the voltages!

I had to replace my FIPL sensor too.

It still flashes the OD light on the transmission shift lever when I idle, but stops when I accelerate. Not near as bad as it was, but still isn't quite right. The old one was definitely bad, as confirmed on my old Triplett 630 VOM. Very noisy.

I need to insert a voltage monitor tap in the TPS line. My friend's scan tool doesn't say much, other than the TPS is out of range. Won't say which way or how much.

Stick a paper clip in the center pin of the TPS connector. Slides right in next to the wire.

Key on engine off, use a multimeter, negative on the negative battery terminal, positive on the paper clip, to read the voltage. Adjust as necessary by turning the FIPL bracket.
 

Nero

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You got me on that one. I have no idea what you are referring to.
Funny, I can only find info on other forums..


There's a tool you can use to set the fipl, you have to place a 0.515 shim (I use a huge stack of feeler blades) between the throttle arm and the wide open throttle stop, to lock it at a certain point. Then you adjust your fiple to a set voltage.

As for voltage, I can't remember what it is. I have an OBD1 scanner I used when I last set it. Tells you when it's too high, too low, or just right.
 

Dirtleg

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Funny, I can only find info on other forums..


There's a tool you can use to set the fipl, you have to place a 0.515 shim (I use a huge stack of feeler blades) between the throttle arm and the wide open throttle stop, to lock it at a certain point. Then you adjust your fiple to a set voltage.

As for voltage, I can't remember what it is. I have an OBD1 scanner I used when I last set it. Tells you when it's too high, too low, or just right.

Okay I understand what you were mentioning now.

My issue was that the new sensor, mounted normally to the IP, even at it's highest adjustment setting, was 1.16V idle and 3.99 WOT. Transmission was lazy and upshifting way to early, not downshifting soon enough.

So I reclocked the tab on the IP throttle shaft to get me in a proper range and it has made a night and day difference.

Since I don't have my scanner with me (oops) I just have a multimeter to set it with. Works for me.

Also I think gear ratio and tire size will affect what the proper setting for a truck is.
 

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