HELP! need guidance to bypass ignition cylinder

[loggin350]

First off my truck is a 93 f350 with the 7.3 naturally aspirated and a zf 5 speed and heres the problem. well the ignition cylinder in my truck has been sloppy for a quite a while and yesterday was its demise. it had slowly been getting worse the past couple of days, first when turning the key to the "start" position it would not return to "run" on its own, it would stay engaging the starter so i would have to turn it back manually. then next thing that happened was when i got home from work the key slid out of the cylinder with it still on "run" with the engine running, then finally last night i was giving a friend a ride and stopped at his house for a bit and when i went to leave i turned the key on to cycle the glow plugs and when i turned it to "start" it felt like something broke or stripped out and the key can now spin freely without turning anything on.

So what i am really after is what do i need to do to wire up a push button starter and i don't know anything about electrical systems so please give it to me dumbed down and hopefully with pictures, thank you all in advance for any replies!

 

[RavenTBK]

Push button between the "hot" and "trigger" sides of the starter solenoid. Hot is the fat wire, trigger is the tiny wire. You can verify by using a screwdriver to jump them. The starter will engage. Its too damn cold outside right now (52*!) for me to go snap some pictures. I'm a Florida boy... this weather sucks.

You still need to get a way to turn the ignition "on". Hopefully the potmetal slider up in the steering column can still at least give you that much.

I drove my Bronco for years with this setup when mine gave out.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Your statement about not knowing about electricals is the deal killer on what you seek to do.

It is no big deal to completely eliminate the key-switch, but one needs to have a pretty good idea about what they are doing.

That being said, before my key-switch quit working --- like they all sooner or later will --- I one-by-one removed every function that the key performed, including the ability to lock the wheel.

Now, my key-switch does absolutely nothing.

Just about every aspect of this modification can be done at the fuse-block and the fender-mounted starter-solenoid-relay.

A good electrical diagram is a big help in tracking down just exactly what each wire does and where it goes.

I used a BIG constant-duty solenoid to control all of my "key-ON" functions; a switch flips ON the solenoid, thus everything the solenoid powers then has electricity.

Many things got wired direct that really had no real reason to be controlled by the key; things such as the wipers, radio, and such.

If you are un-fortunate enough to have power-windows, now is a good time to wire them direct also.

 

[dgr]

Drop the column and see if your ignition switch is the problem or if it is the actuator or if it if really the cylinder. That will take
all of 10 minutes to look into. Based on your description, it sounds like the actuator broke. This is so common doorman makes a replacement. Why hack up a perfectly good truck when you can likely get it fixed properly with $10 -$30 in parts.

Two bolts hold the column up. There is a plastic cover around the column that can then be removed. On top of the column is the rod that goes from the ignition cylinder to the switch. That rod should move in concert with the key. If it doesn't, the actuator in the column is likely broken.

I wouldn't want broken pieces floating around in my STEERING. So the top of the column would be coming apart anyway.

Note I own an 86 but I don't think there is much difference.

 

[dgr]

If it is the broken actuator, the link below contains a very good write up. I would NOT follow the first post in the link below as it is a lazy hack job that saves about 15 minutes. . But further down in this link is a step by step that details everything you need to chance it
http://m.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1130372&styleid=19

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70454&highlight=steering+column


If you really want to dig way down into where the problem lies, maybe this ^^^ will help.

Myself, I wouldn't have my electrics put back factory-original for many reasons; FORD went el-cheapo on these columns and they are really poorly built.

 

[dgr]

Midnight, I edited my post to clarify what I meant. It wasn't directed at you. If someone has the skills to improve this system, I think it is a good idea.
No harm intended

 

[dgr]

Good link there. I did not have to pull the shift lever or that cage. Once the pivot pins were out, some gentle prying gave me the room needed

 

[Leeland]

The FSB link shows a old column. Your ignition switch is on the bottom of the column loggin350. If you pull the black plastic off the bottom of the column and slightly pop the top up you can pull the tumbler assembly by turning to run, not start, and push the pin in on the bottom of the column for the tumbler. Also if you pull the actual ignition switch on the bottom of the column you'll know pretty quick if its the rod or switch.

You must be registered for see images attach

Tumbler was 13$ from napa btw, just bought one couple months ago

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If its just the pin on the switch no big deal, its easy to replace.

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Just so you have a better idea of location

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Leeland]

Also don't pull your whole column down, that's not necessary to replace either part. The ignition switch under the column is what provides that spring back from start to run so if it we me I'd pop that ignition switch off the bottom and check the pin and slider 1st before any thing then replace the tumbler assembly per your convenience.

 

[franklin2]

Trying to figure out and re-wire the system versus taking the column apart and fixing it? Both are not too easy, but I I believe I would try to repair it, I have done it on two different trucks now.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Why hack up a perfectly good truck when you can likely get it fixed properly with $10 -$30 in parts.

+1 on putting a doorman replacement and keeping it stock. I had mine get sloppy and do some "key out/won't return to stop position/generally not right" stuff, and a doorman replacement ignition tumbler and key fixed it before it got worse. Yes, there's some soft spots on the OBS column and ignition switches, but I'd keep throwing stock replacement parts at it when they start to get worn out and at least you'll be able to trouble shoot/fix it with factory parts.

Good luck, no fun being stranded with a truck you can't turn the ket and start

 

[rhkcommander]

If yoy do fix it, install a push button for the starter anyway. Key-on takes a lot less force than starter, then key on.

Mine gave out just like yours. Got it fixed and run manual glow plugs and starter. Not some 'hack' job IMO. Radio is wired direct too, key is just for unlocking the steering and turning truck on and off. (made a wire to bypass that too if it tries to strand me)

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

If yoy do fix it, install a push button for the starter anyway. Key-on takes a lot less force than starter, then key on.

Mine gave out just like yours. Got it fixed and run manual glow plugs and starter. Not some 'hack' job IMO. Radio is wired direct too, key is just for unlocking the steering and turning truck on and off. (made a wire to bypass that too if it tries to strand me)

Like he ^^^ said, it is just good practice to already have a back-up plan in place, BEFORE things quit working on some dark rainy night in the bad part of town.

At the least, one should have a starter push-button under the hood, along with toggle-switch control to the fuel-solenoid, plus a kill-switch on the starter-relay wire for when the slider-switch won't let the starter dis-engage.

 

[redneckaggie]

I ran with the trim removed and a push button starter for about 2 years, still have the push button starter and manual glows even though both work fine, just in case they break again I wont have to redo them to get home