Heater core delete or bypass?

BlackNoma

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Which line should I block off? The one going from head to core or water pump to core?
 

renjaminfrankln

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Which line should I block off? The one going from head to core or water pump to core?

I am wondering the same thing. I'd wager it does not make a difference at all, but it does not hurt to ask.

Also the ID of the hoses are 5/8 correct?

I definitely need to do this. Getting a lot of heat in the cabin with the AC off, not to mention the AC not as cold as it could be.
 

Thewespaul

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Hoses are 5/8 on regular trucks and 3/4 on ambulance packages. You will need to plug both since the entire cooling system is pressurized
 

BlackNoma

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Here is what I ended up doing:
I decided to let the coolant circulate because I plan on putting in a coolant filter one of these days.

The line on the right is the line off the head (to core) and the "T" on the left goes into the line off the water pump (from core).

So I can close the valve on the right and open the one in the "H" to block circulation to the core, but still have circulation in the system.

Then I can close the valve in the "H" and open the other valve and have heat/defrost quickly.

It's redneck, but it was all I could cook up at my local hardware store when I had a few minutes free.

Interesting note, the line off the head is 3/4 and the other line is 5/8. I plan on replacing the hoses with the correct size and relocating my "Arctic Blaster 5000" when I put in a filter. (I'm working on a patent)

Air is 40° now. I didn't measure it before, but will when I get a chance to drive it. I will route it through the core like it's stock and check temp.

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IDIBRONCO

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It's similar to what I did also for the coolant filter install. Both of the hoses should be 5/8". That's how they did it from the factory. The earlier 6.2 Chevys used the different sizes, but I've never seen this on a Ford. Wes is most likely right about the ambulance package having 3/4" hoses. I can only remember working on one ambulance and I can't remember what size the heater hoses were. Maybe someone put a different fitting in your head?
 

BlackNoma

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It is a rebuilt engine, who knows. If the fitting is 3/4, I will choke it down the 5/8 and run 5/8 the rest of the way so it's all uniform.

You can see that they put on 2 hose clamps on the core to hold that 3/4 on. I followed suit on my fittings. Can't have too many clamps. I almost put a few zip-ties and pieces of duct tape to make the job look right. Hahaha
 

renjaminfrankln

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I yanked the hose from the block off of the heater core and re routed it to circulate back to the water pump. Will report back if my AC is colder tomorrow. Should be another warm day here in NC.

5/8" hose on my 1985 6.9 4x4 pickup
 

IDIBRONCO

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You can see that they put on 2 hose clamps on the core to hold that 3/4 on. I followed suit on my fittings. Can't have too many clamps. I almost put a few zip-ties and pieces of duct tape to make the job look right. Hahaha
I make hose protectors out of old heater hoses. I slice it lengthways and slide it over my new hose wherever it touches something. Then I hold the old hose on with zip ties. It doesn't take much vibration or a lot of time to rub through a new hose. I don't care that it doesn't look real neat. I just care that it works.
 

austin92

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I make hose protectors out of old heater hoses. I slice it lengthways and slide it over my new hose wherever it touches something. Then I hold the old hose on with zip ties. It doesn't take much vibration or a lot of time to rub through a new hose. I don't care that it doesn't look real neat. I just care that it works.
You should see my coolant filter lines. I have those chafe protectors everywhere lol


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BlackNoma

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I make hose protectors out of old heater hoses. I slice it lengthways and slide it over my new hose wherever it touches something. Then I hold the old hose on with zip ties. It doesn't take much vibration or a lot of time to rub through a new hose. I don't care that it doesn't look real neat. I just care that it works.
Aesthetics are overrated... And most of us drive trucks that look like a brick. So I would assume I'm not alone in that statement. Function always wins over looks.
I like the idea and will do the same.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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I make hose protectors out of old heater hoses. I slice it lengthways and slide it over my new hose wherever it touches something. Then I hold the old hose on with zip ties. It doesn't take much vibration or a lot of time to rub through a new hose. I don't care that it doesn't look real neat. I just care that it works.

Yes sir, great minds think alike! I just added 3 of those exact protection fixes to my rig. And one on the drivers side ground cable where it runs over the power steering bracket. Sometimes it shifts just right for the pulley to rub on it a bit.
 

genscripter

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A long time ago, I used those same plastic tees on my Jetta TDI. After a year or so, they began to deteriorate and crumble. On a day when I had a major appointment in downtown Los Angeles, one of those plastic tees broke and I lost a bunch of coolant on the road. I was stranded.

If I were you, I would pull those plastic tees ASAP. And while you have it off, why not install some NPT nipples instead of all the rubber hose and clamps? Then you can have your valves on a sturdy interconnected assembly of brass nipples, tees, and bib fittings. I've found that McMaster has good prices and pretty much any elbow, diameter, and threading you could ever want.
 
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