Headlite Lense Restoration

[gdhillon]

Alright rjm it is, thanks for steering me in the right direction!

edit so the h3, 9004 is the correct harness, or is it 9007 that the guys on psnation are running?

 

[RavenTBK]

My answer to crap headlights was a couple hours with 600 grit, rinse, dry, and coat with Krylon Fusion Clear (yes fusion..the one specifically for plastic). The clear has a UV inhibitor in it. Total cost, $6.

One of my lenses had moldy crap inside, so I used my torpedo heater to split the lense from the housing. Ended up doing both. Made it easier to sand... and easier to "paint".

Also learned that the chrome had peeled all off the inside of one of the reflectors. That pissed me off. I went ghetto, and used plasti-dip (aka liquid electrical tape) as an adhesive, and layered tinfoil shiny side out inside the reflector. Made it so much brighter.

Next project on the list is to completely remove the composite POSes, and replace with actual sealed beams. Have a line on a source for the 165mm lenses and buckets to easily retrofit onto my core support, but am looking for 200mm buckets in a similar setup before I start.

 

[gdhillon]

I looked it up on rjms links seems like its 9007 can someone confirm

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

yes obs trucks use the 9007.

 

[Socal88]

I've been using 3M superduty rubbing compound (for paint) with a polisher to get the dead plastic off, then Meguiars clear plastic polish with a micro fiber wheel on the polisher with good succes. Make sure you tape off the paint or plastic around the light to keep from damaging the surrounding surfaces. I can do a set of lights in about an hour, with a refreshment break between lights!

 

[Fordsandguns]

This is a general question to anyone who's done this mod...have you seen any negative effect on bulb life? I've considered doing something like this, but I've always heard that you risk reducing the life of the bulbs considerably...IIRC due to the extra heat, but I'm not certain.

Warden, I haven't done this yet, but I saw a post by another member about wiring the low beams around the dimmer switch so that it only switches the high beams on or off. Same idea as a bright box only cheaper.
I figure if you wanted to test for bulb life this is the way to do it.

 

[Wicked97]

I really don't think it was a factory install. Just looking at the installation I'm almost positive that it was a dealer installed option for the trailer package.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

I think these are pretty shnazzy lol.

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[SparkandFire]

Good point on replacing the headlight switch. Mine let the smoke out going up Hwy. 17 on my way home a month or so ago. I just barely got off the highway in one piece, tore the dash apart and jumpered the headlights to get home.

The switch had been replaced, it had the word "Standard" stamped on the metal portion of the switch, But someone had just slapped it back together with the original Ford harness all melted with wires falling out of it.

It is truly amazing more of these old Ford's don't burn to the ground more often. I remember as a kid my parent's '89 bronco had the alternator charge wire go up in flames and needed a fire extinguisher to quench the combustion... Took my dad weeks to get it all put back together.

 

[Dave 001]

Warden, I haven't done this yet, but I saw a post by another member about wiring the low beams around the dimmer switch so that it only switches the high beams on or off.

While it's not a bad idea, it only removes the load from the headlight switch....not the factory wiring (which may or may not be under-sized, depends on who you ask). And like you said, the hi beams are still powered thru the headlight switch, the hi beams of couse drawing more current than the lo beams.

lo beams = 13 amp draw
hi beams = 16 amp draw
(at least on my truck)

 

[Dave 001]

Recently fixed this on my truck when I had the dash out.

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Red w/ yellow = head light circuit

Tan w/ white = running lights

This connector was already a replacement connector installed in the past before I got the truck. The connector I installed is at least the 3rd connector. Like somebody else said....it's a wonder more of the Fords don't burn to the ground. FYI....the heater blower switch is just as bad of a design. I've fixed several of them also.

Once the weather gets warmer, I will be installing 3 relays......one for the parking lights, one for the lo beams, and one for the hi beams. And the lo beams will remain "ON" with the hi beams. When I get done the only load on the head light switch will be the relays.

 

[Fordsandguns]

While it's not a bad idea, it only removes the load from the headlight switch....not the factory wiring (which may or may not be under-sized, depends on who you ask). And like you said, the hi beams are still powered thru the headlight switch, the hi beams of couse drawing more current than the lo beams.

lo beams = 13 amp draw
hi beams = 16 amp draw
(at least on my truck)

I have the lmc relay harness on mine. I plan on either buying the other one that diesel brad had listed or redoing the lmc one. It barely reached across to the driver side. Plus knowing the relays are oddballs is another good reason to redo it or replace it.
Either way, I'm good as far as the load on the headlight switch.

 

[franklin2]

About running the low beams and the high beams at the same time;

I have heard that this may cause a false sense that you are getting better vision at nightime. Of course you are getting more light with both filaments on, but you have now doubled the light right in the front of the truck, not far away. This can actually hinder your long distance vision by all that light right at the front of the truck. I have also heard these blue lights people are running give a false sense of better vision, and the lower frequency yellow light gives better long distance vision.

It's all about the human eye and how it reacts to different types of light. I can't back this up really, just one of those internet things that makes you think a little bit.

 

[79jasper]

Franklin2, sounds like you read the "discussion" on sylvania silverstars.

There are some truths to that. But I'm not following the whole "my eyes are tricking me."
When I can see an object faster and further away, I KNOW I am seeing better.

But if your headlights are adjusted correctly, you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[franklin2]

Franklin2, sounds like you read the "discussion" on sylvania silverstars.

I didn't see that one, but there are several debates about it on different boards. You have to watch out for this stuff sometimes. A lot of manufacturers these days want to sell you something, no matter if it really works or not.