gdhillon
Full Access Member
Eric, do you know the advantage od the rj kit over lmc?
Headlite Lense Restoration
- Thread starter icanfixall
- Start date
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
79jasper
Chickenhawk
That's a lot of good info. I wanna do the relay mod and the "bright box" mod on my 94 and 88.
One thing for the headlights...there's a film you can buy to cover lenses with that should help protect them from getting pitted and sand-blasted. I don't know how much it'll protect from UV rays, but I know that it keeps them in better shape longer. A couple of the vehicles in my company's fleet have this installed, and hte difference is noticeable. You can buy them custom-fitted for newer vehicles; I don't think a pre-cut pattern exists for any of our trucks, but you can buy a universal sheet and cut down to size.
http://www.protectivefilmsolutions.biz/3M_Headlight_Lens_Restoration.htm
http://www.lamin-x.com/Universal-Sheets-s/289.htm
http://www.clearmask.com/lightgard.php
I'm just giving you those links as examples; I have yet to try a specific brand that I can comment on. I plan to get a set for the E-code headlight assemblies that I plan to install in my Jetta when I have time, though...IMHO it's a worthwhile investment after you polish the lenses up
http://www.protectivefilmsolutions.biz/3M_Headlight_Lens_Restoration.htm
http://www.lamin-x.com/Universal-Sheets-s/289.htm
http://www.clearmask.com/lightgard.php
I'm just giving you those links as examples; I have yet to try a specific brand that I can comment on. I plan to get a set for the E-code headlight assemblies that I plan to install in my Jetta when I have time, though...IMHO it's a worthwhile investment after you polish the lenses up
My '84 slant-nose has a relay in about the same spot as you described the brick-nose relay being at (near the vacuum cannister); I think it's for the trailer running lights but I'm not certain. I'm pretty sure it's factory. FWIW...
79jasper
Chickenhawk
It keeps the low beams on with the high beams.
The warden- I've been wanting to see if they sell a cut to fit version.
This is a general question to anyone who's done this mod...have you seen any negative effect on bulb life? I've considered doing something like this, but I've always heard that you risk reducing the life of the bulbs considerably...IIRC due to the extra heat, but I'm not certain.
I have yet to find one, but I would love to...if you come across one, let me know
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I could see that being feasible. I haven't done it yet myself. But with the newer cars that have the "flash to pass" engages both beams. On my girlfriends car, that's how I drive it, instead of flipping it forward to high beams only, I hold it back. A few months ago we did have to replace a bulb(did both of course), they were the original bulbs with 100k miles on them. So I guess it'll depend on the bulb. I know those "bright white" ones don't last as long. Like these-(silver package) http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/parts/SilverStar-Headlight/_/N-iufowZ9ci8c?id=343438
But I've been using these with great success-(purple package with green writing) http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobi...n-P-U-4WD/Headlight/_/N-iufowZ9ci8c?id=723040
I have yet to find one, but I would love to...if you come across one, let me know
Well well well.... http://www.autoanything.com/lights/60A1218A0A0.aspx
Up til 96 all f-series had the same setup right?
Those do have a UV protection.
You make a good point; OTOH the newer cars are designed to only operate both fliaments momentarily, although as you pointed out, some do it differently. Be interesting to see what others who've done this have experienced...
Good find!!!
Looks like they even have film for brick-nose trucks...I'm pleasantly surprised. THANK YOU for finding that!!
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Correct. That's why I hold it back instead of just using the brights.
It's most talked about with the obs trucks, but from what I've read, no one seemed to have any complaints about bulb life. Of course the exception of the "bright white" type bulb I mentioned. They're higher wattage, so they will burn out faster.
Good find!!!
I have heard pretty good things about that brand. I'll definitely be buying some eventually for my small fleet of vehicles.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
That's surprising. I haven't had a problem with them "yet." The one time I did wasn't brand related. It was the sealed beams on my chevy, had a good voltage spike burning out both low beams. Talk about fun while driving on ice lol.
I used the extra visions in my girlfriends car. When I mentioned the flash to pass, I actually HOLD it back, and it does keep both on.
Where do you get the GE nighthawks? I'll look into them for my 94 to compare durability.
I also want to add, I have only used them on 4 vehicles. All of which running factory wiring. 2007 aveo, 1979 chevy, 1993 f350, and my girlfriends dads Pontiac g6.
So with the relay mod, I may start seeing problems with the xtravisions, since they'll be getting more power.
I used the extra visions in my girlfriends car. When I mentioned the flash to pass, I actually HOLD it back, and it does keep both on.
Where do you get the GE nighthawks? I'll look into them for my 94 to compare durability.
I also want to add, I have only used them on 4 vehicles. All of which running factory wiring. 2007 aveo, 1979 chevy, 1993 f350, and my girlfriends dads Pontiac g6.
So with the relay mod, I may start seeing problems with the xtravisions, since they'll be getting more power.
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Blind Driver2
Full Access Member
When I got my '92, the headlamps were yellow. I got some buffing compound and buffing wheels from Harbor Freight. After 30 minutes the outsides of both headlight housings looked brand new. The problem was the long time water leak into the housings. The chrome looking lining inside the housing had peeled away which made both housings nearly useless at night.
On went the euro housings and HID light kit. Too bad the kit wasn't waterproof
. In went the Syvania Silverstar Ultras.
On went the euro housings and HID light kit. Too bad the kit wasn't waterproof
. In went the Syvania Silverstar Ultras.
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There is no relay in my duallie that im aware other than my trailer package relays.and there isnt a part of this truck that I haven't touched, kicked, punched, tasted or fingered.
Lcam mine is a 250 and I have worked on several 85-86 duallys that were identical.
All but one had that relay and its part of a separate harness that runs all the way to the back of the truck. It ties into the tail light harness in the back but unplugging it doesn't effect the marker lights just the trailer marker lights.
All but one had that relay and its part of a separate harness that runs all the way to the back of the truck. It ties into the tail light harness in the back but unplugging it doesn't effect the marker lights just the trailer marker lights.
lilredtdi
Registered User
Heres my two cents.........
Plastic headlight housings yellow, pit and sometimes leak due a broken seal or plugged vent. If they leak and have moisture inside of them they need to be replaced or removed, resealed or vent unplugged and dried thoroughly or you will continue to be plagued with burned out bulbs, poor lighting and restoring just the yellowed lens will be fruitless.
Yellowed lens on most all cars need to be fixed by starting with an aggressive sand paper and go up the grits 200 at a time and finish with something like a polishing compound ( one for paint is fine) and a buffing wheel on a drill, something low speed 1000 RPM or less. "I" even go as far as to spritz the lights with water on final polish to really make them crystal clear. Make sure while doing this to protect everything around the lens with painters blue tape.
No need to go spend 20-30 bucks on dedicated stuff for headlights. They are just trying to separate you from your money with good marketing.
Bulbs- In my experience, the $8 bulb works just as good as the $40 bulbs. The expensive bulbs "look" brighter but are not and burn out much faster. Those damn markerters have us consumers pegged as suckers. Go on the web site Daniel Stern lighting and do some reading and you will learn alot.
New headlight housings- Anything other than OEM stock suck and will yellow faster and probably leak. If you do have to buy them make sure they have a good, open vent and spend a few bucks on some silicone and seal the lens to the housing before installing you will thank yourself later.
Plastic headlight housings yellow, pit and sometimes leak due a broken seal or plugged vent. If they leak and have moisture inside of them they need to be replaced or removed, resealed or vent unplugged and dried thoroughly or you will continue to be plagued with burned out bulbs, poor lighting and restoring just the yellowed lens will be fruitless.
Yellowed lens on most all cars need to be fixed by starting with an aggressive sand paper and go up the grits 200 at a time and finish with something like a polishing compound ( one for paint is fine) and a buffing wheel on a drill, something low speed 1000 RPM or less. "I" even go as far as to spritz the lights with water on final polish to really make them crystal clear. Make sure while doing this to protect everything around the lens with painters blue tape.
No need to go spend 20-30 bucks on dedicated stuff for headlights. They are just trying to separate you from your money with good marketing.
Bulbs- In my experience, the $8 bulb works just as good as the $40 bulbs. The expensive bulbs "look" brighter but are not and burn out much faster. Those damn markerters have us consumers pegged as suckers. Go on the web site Daniel Stern lighting and do some reading and you will learn alot.
New headlight housings- Anything other than OEM stock suck and will yellow faster and probably leak. If you do have to buy them make sure they have a good, open vent and spend a few bucks on some silicone and seal the lens to the housing before installing you will thank yourself later.
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