Head gasket parts list

03wr250f

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I am gearing up to pull the engine this winter and stud the heads. Most of this gearing up is preparing myself to pull the engine. lol. But i am still in a huge debate phase. I also have a spare 7.3 engine, but everything about it is unknown. I think over thanksgiving I will bring it back, as it sits 5 hours away from me now. I also have a spare set of heads with exhaust valves in them. I am going to get them this weekend and plan on checking them out. If they look good I may look into having them machined before hand, but then again no intake valves...
I plan on pulling the heads. Machine work, I have no idea, I think I have found a good shop to do idi heads, but not sure. Any suggestions here as to what to do would be encouraged.
I have studs for studding the heads. I plan on buying comp 910-16 springs and comp 4754 shims.
felpro head gasket set and intake manifold gasket. Ford oem oil cooler o-rings and gaskets and I figure a motorcraft water pump while I am down this far. Old one is working fine, but while it is that easy I figure I should? Also I was thinking about putting a r&d or typ4 cam in, but have heard a couple horror stories about how much more careful you have to be in order to not have pistons kissing valves. I dont want that. I also understand there isnt a huge possibility of that but it is there. I also dont want to have to do more machining in order to run a cam, but the power benefits of a cam are nice.
I am honestly just putting feelers out there to make sure I am doing this right, am not overlooking something, and have all the necessary parts. I am trying to do this cheap, but quality is necessary if I am going this deep I want it to hold up to whatever I could throw at it. Heck the whole reason for me tearing down the engine in the first place is preventative maintenance. Thanks!
 

Thewespaul

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So you are pulling the entire engine or just the heads? I really like to have my block decked along with my head machine work
 

IDIoit

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send the heads directly to the machine shop if you don't find any cracks. have them mag'd
get new valves. the shop can get them for you, im sure I got a crappy set, but I would just buy new.
Inconel exhaust valves are kinda pricey.
but when I have heads done, I prefer new valves.
unless youre on a budget.
then some lapping compound and a drill can do the job :)
 

03wr250f

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Pulling entire engine, in order to pull heads and to oil cooler when its easy. Why do I need new valves?
 

Macrobb

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Re-lapping/grinding old valves should be easier on the clearance front, as the stock valves were already ground to spec, then worn in.

New valves will probably be a bit tall, and need the seat recessed to spec

Also, when you need clearance on the valve/seat, take it off the seat, not the valve. you don't want the edge of the valve any thinner than you have to, so it will hold high temps better.
 

Dieselcrawler

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reseal everything you can while it is out. front and rear main, oil pan, and timing gear covers, even if they are dry.
 

IDIBRONCO

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If the heads don't already have them, have bronze liners installed in the valve guides to help with the "chuffing" issue. Also, this would be a good time for the "cooling mod". Now that I know about it, I feel that it's a good idea to do when you have the engine out and torn apart.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Actually there's only two on each side of the block and two in each head. You have to use 6.9 head gaskets. They have the special inserts with them. They have a rubber coated steel seal (I assume) around them that crushes when you torque down the heads. As for the plugs, they were simple to remove. I first tried to drill a hole in them. I thought my drill bit was a little dull so I decided to use a center punch to make a starting divot. The first one just pushed through into the block when I hit it in the middle. The rest of them, I used the punch towards the side of them and turned them sideways. Then I could hook a screwdriver in the side of them and just lift the plugs out of the block. I'm not too worried about the one that's in the block. I looked closely at one after I had it out, and I think they are stainless steel like the block plugs (freeze plugs) on the sides of the block. That would also why my drill bit wouldn't make a hole in them very easily. It's really less than a five minute job.
 

raydav

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I recently bought a reman 93 turbo IDI. It was complete, but I pulled the rotating assembly to get it balanced. And I discovered a part that is obvious, but I had never encountered or thought of; head shims. You cannot just take ten mil of the deck of a diesel and call it done. You need the put it back somehow.
 

03wr250f

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in looking for a rear main seal I have come across two different options.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Fo...ash=item25bb7f46cf:g:WSkAAOSwYmZXKfDG&vxp=mtr
I REALLY like this one just in the fact of so many gaskets but it was warned to me that the rear main may be different than a brand new one? thoughts? said to contain"
F350. F250 pick-up. E250-350 vans.
Includes Oil Pan Gaskets, Rear Main Seal, Oil Pump Gaskets, Front Cover Gasket & Seal, Fuel Pump Gasket And Water Pump Gaskets.; 7.3L DIESEL. 7.3L DIESEL - 1992-94" also this 92-92 arent all 7.3 engines gaskets the same?
and
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-...ash=item41a8f0dafa:g:m3EAAOSwVghXEm4x&vxp=mtr
 

Macrobb

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I recently bought a reman 93 turbo IDI. It was complete, but I pulled the rotating assembly to get it balanced. And I discovered a part that is obvious, but I had never encountered or thought of; head shims. You cannot just take ten mil of the deck of a diesel and call it done. You need the put it back somehow.
Not really, but you might have to shave your pistons to compensate.
Some aftermarket pistons for IDIs come with the pin holes .01" higher on the piston to account for it.

I would /not/ use any steel/shim/anything other than a single layer of gasket between the head and block, or it will end up leaking. The felpro/victor reinz material is amazing stuff overall.
 

raydav

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in looking for a rear main seal I have come across two different options.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Fo...ash=item25bb7f46cf:g:WSkAAOSwYmZXKfDG&vxp=mtr
I REALLY like this one just in the fact of so many gaskets but it was warned to me that the rear main may be different than a brand new one? thoughts? said to contain"
F350. F250 pick-up. E250-350 vans.
Includes Oil Pan Gaskets, Rear Main Seal, Oil Pump Gaskets, Front Cover Gasket & Seal, Fuel Pump Gasket And Water Pump Gaskets.; 7.3L DIESEL. 7.3L DIESEL - 1992-94" also this 92-92 arent all 7.3 engines gaskets the same?
and
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-...ash=item41a8f0dafa:g:m3EAAOSwVghXEm4x&vxp=mtr

I am replacing an 89 with a 93 turbo. I don't see any difference in the gaskets. So, $62 for just a rear seal, or $50 for a complete lower set. What was the question again?
 
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