Hard start even with new injectors, injection pump and glow plugs...help

chris becker

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With full batteries this morning. It tried to start but would not catch. Gave it to small shot s of ether starts right up. Tried to take a video but could not upload it.
 

Selahdoor

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There's your problem. These need to be timed correctly and the "timing marks" are only to get it going to put a meter on it. Look up the timing registry on here to see if anyone is near you or PM @icanfixall about meter rental. If it's good when running now wait until it's "right".
Timing registry?
 

Selahdoor

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With full batteries this morning. It tried to start but would not catch. Gave it to small shot s of ether starts right up. Tried to take a video but could not upload it.
Chris, Try jumpering the batteries, from another vehicle. Put on the jumper cables and let the other vehicle run for a bit, before you ever try to start this. Then have someone rev the other vehicle while you are trying to start it.

You've probably already checked the batteries and alternator, but please humor me on this. Won't take long.
 

franklin2

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White stinky smoke means you are getting fuel.

Voltage dropping way down means the glowplugs are working and pulling power.

Hard starting while hot means you have plenty of heat in the cylinder and it is still not firing. I would say low compression, or possibly what the other guys were saying about timing. I do not know enough about the timing of the diesel engine to get into that, except you could mark where it is now, move the pump a little bit one way, tighten it down and try it, and if that didn't work move it a little bit the other way and try it, see if it got better.
 

chris becker

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So figured it defiantly timing. Loosened the bolts for the injection pump and moved it around. Advanced it about a dimes width. Now it starts just fine but hav thick black smoke upon hard acceleration and it runs kinda doggy. If I put it back to we’re the timing marks line up it runs awesome but won’t start without ether. So I am going to split the difference and get it dynamic timed as soon as I find some body in Portland Oregon.
 

chris becker

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There is also someone in tri cities area Washington but still 5+ hours away does not help. I think I will retard if back to almost where it was on timing. Harder to start but runs much better then now.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Diaclaimer: this post is not about your starting issues! Those seem to be IP internal transfer pump related.

I'm late to the party but thought I would say-- your timing won't matter nearly as much now as it will with a Ford mechanical lift pump. I had the Facet for 4ish years and moving the timing a little advanced or retarded didn't change much of anything, especially MPGs and top end.

I recently got a Ford lift pump back on(I retained the facet for cold start priming and emergencies) and my engine runs WAY better now. Timimg actually makes a big difference, especially in low end torque and MPGs have gone way up.

I say Ford pump because they put out 5-6psi and it stays in that range from idle to WOT, which is what these IPs are calibrated for. The Facet makes the timing change all over the place and screws up a lot of what a good IP is actually doing right.
From other members posting the average aftermarket lift pump only pushes about 3psi. Better but not ideal.
I really need to link this info so I can stop typing it over and over...

-Joshua
 

bbjordan

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Is the cold advance solenoid working? It advances the timing about 3* when the engine temp is under 120* F.
 

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