Gonna do studs, got a ?

[dukedrummer89]

So i plan on replacing the headgaskets and putting in studs on my truck in the next couple weeks, along with some other things (new radiator, hoses, ect). It seems to be loosing coolant. Plus, I want to get it ready for school time that way its reliable and i dont have to worry about having it down for weeks at a time. Just wondering when you do headgaskets if it would be a good idea to take the heads to a machine shop to have them checked for cracks or if the idi's generally have problems with heads cracking. I was thinking if i get them gone over maybee having the machine shop install new valve springs and seals also. What do you think??? Anything else i should replace while im in there??? After im done with school this year id like to see how much power i can squeeze outa the old girl, i figure this will be a good first step.

 

[icanfixall]

How many miles on the motor and has the coolant been kept up with SCA.... These questions need to be answered for a complete answer. Usually the heads are fine and don't crack... Unless they have been overheated. You posted that there is a coolant loss going on. You need to know this could indicate cavitation in the cylinders. If so sleeving all 8 cylinders will need to be done.. Can you see where you are loosing coolant? How long have you owned the truck and how often has the previous owner changed oil.

 

[dukedrummer89]

How many miles on the motor and has the coolant been kept up with SCA.... These questions need to be answered for a complete answer. Usually the heads are fine and don't crack... Unless they have been overheated. You posted that there is a coolant loss going on. You need to know this could indicate cavitation in the cylinders. If so sleeving all 8 cylinders will need to be done.. Can you see where you are loosing coolant? How long have you owned the truck and how often has the previous owner changed oil.

Most of those questions i cant answer... I can say that some of the coolant loss is due to a leaky radiator, if not all of it. I cant say that it is leaking past the headgaskets untill i look at them. and the temps never really get above210, even pulling 8k.

Mileage is high, the title for the frame was last retitled in 97 (the motor is an 85) with 195k on it, so id say somewhere between 200-300k, i doubt coolant was kept up with considering the poor/barley running condition of the truck when i got it. Ive owned it since july of last year, who knows when/how often the oil was changed before i got it, it gets synthetic now tho... It was a 1k dollar max truck when i got it.

I may replace the radiator and hoses and see if im still loosing coolant... i still plan on doin gaskets and studs...

Werent some of the 6.9s pretty good for not having cavitation problems?

 

[OLDBULL8]

If I were you I would do the radiator and hose's first. Get the coolant leaks stopped. Replace the t'stat, only use the Ford or IH t'stat that's a must. For a radiator go to radiator.com , they have good prices and are made by Visteon Ford's supplier. I got one 2 years ago for $280 shipped. Check the width 30" or 32" you have to know that. Then just run the truck for a couple of weeks for loss of coolant, that will kind of let you know if you have cavitation. You prolly can't see if coolant is leaking on the head gaskets, they kind of rip when taking them off. For coolant replacement use the IH Fleetgard it already has the SCA's in it at the correct amount. Just get 4 gallons of the straight and 4 gallons of steam distilled water from the grocery store cheaper that way. When you remove the heads clean them really good, but dont scratch the surface's. Don't try to do the head's without pulling the engine, it's a *****, and the rear head bolt's can't be removed, only with the head. Gonna post this now while your still looking. Might have some more advice later.

 

[OLDBULL8]

When you replace the coolant be sure and drain the block, there's a plug one on each side toward the rear, pass side is behind the starter. Only use a six point socket or wrench, plugs are brass and round off real easy.

 

[Optikalillushun]

this is gunna be one of my winter projects (coolant drain/refill and R/R the rad hoses and radiator).

 

[dukedrummer89]

If I were you I would do the radiator and hose's first. Get the coolant leaks stopped. Replace the t'stat, only use the Ford or IH t'stat that's a must. For a radiator go to radiator.com , they have good prices and are made by Visteon Ford's supplier. I got one 2 years ago for $280 shipped. Check the width 30" or 32" you have to know that. Then just run the truck for a couple of weeks for loss of coolant, that will kind of let you know if you have cavitation. You prolly can't see if coolant is leaking on the head gaskets, they kind of rip when taking them off. For coolant replacement use the IH Fleetgard it already has the SCA's in it at the correct amount. Just get 4 gallons of the straight and 4 gallons of steam distilled water from the grocery store cheaper that way. When you remove the heads clean them really good, but dont scratch the surface's. Don't try to do the head's without pulling the engine, it's a *****, and the rear head bolt's can't be removed, only with the head. Gonna post this now while your still looking. Might have some more advice later.

We use 3m "roloc" (or however its spelled) discs to clean blocks, i will use those on mine...

Im gonna lift the cab, just like a 6-leaker, easier that way

So, i should be fine with not taking the heads to the machine shop? I know my work has 6 sets of 6.0 and a set of 7.3s down there now so i wouldnt get them back for a while.

 

[OLDBULL8]

If or when you pull the engine, it would be a good idea to replace the o'rings in the oil cooler.Check my webshots for view's. If you don't have access to an engine stand, Harbor Freight has them at a reasonable cost, if one is near you. mine is the 1000 lb, will handle it OK.

 

[typ4]

I highly recommend Not using roloc's, a good wide scraper and a sanding board is what I use. One little tilt of the disc and you can make a minute ditch that will cause a leak. I have had to fix several like that and I dont care what all the bulletins say on cars and stuff I dont use them on critical sealing areas,ie:head surfaces. I would get the valve guides at least checked, if needed get bronze guides from PRP. They are the best. Get a full gasket set and seal it up once and you will be good for many miles.

 

[Michael Fowler]

VERY IMPORTANT--
Maybe you already know this, but it bears repeating on every "head gasket" thread---

LOOSEN THE HEAD BOLTS 1/4 TURN AT-A-TIME IN THE REVERSE OF THE TIGHTENING ORDER UNTIL FINGER LOOSE.

If you fail to do this, the machine shop will find that the heads are cracked.

 

[Michael Fowler]

One more detail from experience.

If you are getting the ARP studs, also get their thread lubricant. They provide specs for torquing the studs. The amount of torque applied depends on the lubricant used. They list motor oil, and then their lube. If you use another thread lubricant you will be guessing at the torque.

Also remember--we measure torque so that we can (hopefully) know how much strain we have placed on the stud. "Tight" is not right. We need to know the clamping forces. They can be measured directly using special washers. This method is becoming common in structural steel. The special washers have precise bumps on one surface, and the erectors are instructed to tighten until they cannot see the bumps.
AGAIK, no one makes these "Direct Indicating Washers" for head bold applications, but it would be nice if they did.