Going to look at a turbo

wmoguy

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Mine has the crushed down pipe. How much is the upgraded one?

Also I was wondering once a turbo is installed does it affect timing any?

I got quote from banks yesterday for $111. Supposedly the banks pipe will work on that ATS turbo. I will find out in a few weeks. Phazertwo has that down pipe on his pickup with ATS turbo.

I didn't believe it until I heard it with my own ears. Tha crush pipe is a dog, and robbing you of cooler egts and that oh so lovely turbo whine. My 93 will not break 1k degrees no matter how hard I try. The 94 has no problem ******* 1200. And the 93 builds more boost and much faster. I chalk that up to the down pipe and I'm sure a fresh typ4 build helped.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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I got quote from banks yesterday for $111. Supposedly the banks pipe will work on that ATS turbo. I will find out in a few weeks. Phazertwo has that down pipe on his pickup with ATS turbo.

I didn't believe it until I heard it with my own ears. Tha crush pipe is a dog, and robbing you of cooler egts and that oh so lovely turbo whine. My 93 will not break 1k degrees no matter how hard I try. The 94 has no problem ******* 1200. And the 93 builds more boost and much faster. I chalk that up to the down pipe and I'm sure a fresh typ4 build helped.

SWEET!!!;Sweet
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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wmoguy

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Id just have a muffler shop toss in 4" pipe past the down pipe. I have the Hypermax Exhaust sans muffler on my 93. IMO it wasn't worth what I paid for it. The 94 is getting 4" exhaust with a turnout before the rear wheel. It should be pretty cheap and easy to do.
 

wmoguy

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update on downpipe:

I called Banks and ordered a complete turbo back kit from them. Includes downpipe and complete 3.5" exhaust (would have preferred 4" but thats ok) Including shipping to my door and deleting the muffler it came to $466.29. I thought that was a pretty darn good deal really! All I'll have to find is a 3.5" section of pipe to account for the muffler deletion.

Just thought I'd share the info for fellow OB's thinking about ditching the downpipe for a real downpipe. Might as well upgrade the exhaust while your at it at this price IMO.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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update on downpipe:

I called Banks and ordered a complete turbo back kit from them. Includes downpipe and complete 3.5" exhaust (would have preferred 4" but thats ok) Including shipping to my door and deleting the muffler it came to $466.29. I thought that was a pretty darn good deal really! All I'll have to find is a 3.5" section of pipe to account for the muffler deletion.

Just thought I'd share the info for fellow OB's thinking about ditching the downpipe for a real downpipe. Might as well upgrade the exhaust while your at it at this price IMO.

cool. as you allready know you will have to take pics and tell us how it sounds and the performance.;Sweet
 

Cincinnati Guy

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Did a little work over the holiday weekend.

Got my pump turned up one more flat. Fabricated a air intake with a 46637 wix huge filter.

You must be registered for see images attach


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Found out why Im getting a slight rattle and why my truck would shut off when I stomped the pedal when sitting in park. the #1 injector was bad. I cracked all my injectors and the #1 didnt make and sound differences when it was loose, so I swapped it out with one of the 6 typ4 injectors I have and what a difference. No more stalling and it sounds 100% better without the injector knock. I also advanced the pump slightly.

Here is a short video before I swapped the injector, notice after I hit the throttle it kills the motor. Now after the swap it no longer stalls.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cHV3pClc2Q
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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The intake looks impressive.

But, and I hate to rain on your picnic, I know from a friends bad experience that you need to re-engineer a bit before it costs you an engine.

If I am seeing right, that is a plain old plumbing supply rubber adapter connector with plain old garden variety hose-clamps, right ??

This guy built such a custom intake for his Ford/Cummins.

In about two weeks, the hose-clamps slipped, allowing the flimsy plumbing boot to get sucked through the turbo.

Bits and pieces made it into the cylinders, burning holes in the pistons.

The turbo was destroyed.

And, somehow, the top of the engine burnt.


All over a three-dollar fitting.


Best is to use genuine SUCTION/VACUUM intake boots and TEE-BOLT clamps.
 

Cincinnati Guy

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Yea there the plumbing grade boots, well with the ones I have they seem pretty stiff, and there are grooves in the rubber where the clamps fit into. I really doubt its going anywhere, but I am taking it into consideration.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Yea there the plumbing grade boots, well with the ones I have they seem pretty stiff, and there are grooves in the rubber where the clamps fit into. I really doubt its going anywhere, but I am taking it into consideration.



:angel: I tried to warn him also before the :eek: disaster and that is almost word for word his reply. LOL


I hope it does work for you.

There is a lot of vibration going on under the hood, plus slippery clamping surfaces, plus the strong vacuum/suction of the turbo; one little slip and she's gone.

Maybe all that will happen is you will pop the hood and see it merely slipped apart, with all the pieces still where you can see them.
 
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