Yessir, looking forward to having you out
Glow Plug Solutions from Classic Diesel Designs
- Thread starter Thewespaul
- Start date
First batch of orders shipped out today, tracking info should be in those your email if your order has shipped. I have a few conversion kits ready just waiting on relays and will be sent out as soon as my overnight order of white Rodgers relays come in.
I am back in stock with our billet check valves, if anyone wants one to go with their harness I can bundle them together to save shipping costs. Thanks again oilburners!
I am back in stock with our billet check valves, if anyone wants one to go with their harness I can bundle them together to save shipping costs. Thanks again oilburners!
You must be registered for see images attach
Oledirtypearl86
Full Access Member
The check valve works wonders Wes thank you and here soon I'll need a new harness you'll be the first call when I need one
Randy Bush
Full Access Member
Where is the check valve used?
Randy Bush
Full Access Member
Wes does the IDIT factory engine with the controller on the valve cover use a different harness? and if so cost?
You can use the check valve where you see fit, I like to install them in the soft line between the frame and lift pump, the routing for the factory turbo trucks is different and requires some heat shielding, those are $45 right now
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
This is something else that I forgot about while I was there. It appears that you were out anyway so it really doesn't matter that I forgot.
WarNose
Full Access Member
I'm reading that 10 AWG wire should have 1 ohm resistance per 1000 feet. That is .001 ohm per foot. If there is 4 feet added to each of the 8 glow plug wires for a total of 32 feet, the added wiring would add .032 ohms to the system. I'm reading different things about what the ohms of the glow plugs should be, but it is roughly somewhere between .5 and 1.5 ohms. I'm sure somebody can get better numbers than this. But I don't think .032 additional ohms should affect anything significantly. I'm willing to give it a try, anyway.
Oledirtypearl86
Full Access Member
At work I've been working a lot with the electricians on a project we had this conversation and they have proven that this theroy isn't exactly accurate with full spools of wire of the same gauge 10 spools all read different with the same meter but same readings with second meter
DrCharles
Full Access Member
Very low resistance measurements are more difficult to perform accurately. The average toolbox meter will show several tenths of an ohm on the display with the leads shorted. Oxidation on the wire ends and on the probes, contact pressure, movement during reading, all affect the reading too. When you're trying to measure even a 500' reel (0.5 ohm) there is just no way to get a repeatable, accurate measurement with a two-lead DVM. You need a four-lead (Kelvin connection) meter which is not something most electricians have, or are familiar with...
In WN's example, you can't really say it's "adding .032 ohms to the system". In fact each of the eight extra .004 ohm wires are in series with a glow plug which constitute about 1% extra resistance per circuit. Those crappy bullet connectors probably introduce more than 4 milliohms which varies with age anyway!
Four feet is a lot of wire, too. It won't be that long. Look at the original harness and there is a difference in lead length to each glow plug to where the feeder line is crimped. Bottom line is, don't worry about it!
In WN's example, you can't really say it's "adding .032 ohms to the system". In fact each of the eight extra .004 ohm wires are in series with a glow plug which constitute about 1% extra resistance per circuit. Those crappy bullet connectors probably introduce more than 4 milliohms which varies with age anyway!
Four feet is a lot of wire, too. It won't be that long. Look at the original harness and there is a difference in lead length to each glow plug to where the feeder line is crimped. Bottom line is, don't worry about it!
Good points all around, I dug through my manuals and havent found that ohm spec yet, but did find that the service manual states the glowplugs are actually PTC, so resistance does go up with temp.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
I missed that error, but you are quite right. If the resistance dropped as they got hotter, the plugs would run away until something burned up!
Randy Bush
Full Access Member
Got my harness today. Very nice job Wes! Think I will do glow plugs and return lines now too.
Thanks again.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
Thanks again.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
Thanks Randy!
The brain in the controller reads the voltage drop across the z bar on top of the controller itself. That is how it's measuring the current flow to the glowplugs. I bet you can't even measure the resistance of the z bar with a regular meter.
Let's say the glowplugs when they are cold are .5 ohms. 12v divided by .5 ohms equals 24 amps per plug. 24x8=192 total amps from all 8 glowplugs. 192 amps x .032 ohms added resistance =6.144 volts dropped across the new added wire. Divide 6.144 by 8 =.768 volts per plug lost by the new added wire.
The thing of it is, the factory figured some voltage drop in the wiring. The picked their wiring sizes (which I think we can all agree is a little on the small side) and then calibrated the controller according to this standard wiring harness. So you can put wiring that is too large in there and run into the same problem as adding wiring of the same size.
I am not sure why they did not have a controller with a temp sensor screwed into the engine. It would measure the temp of the engine directly, not indirectly like it does by measuring the current draw of the glowplugs.
