Formally Introducing... Red Fred the Rusty ol Flatbed

nitroguy

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Hey all! Perhaps you've seen me lurking around, but this site is phenomenal. It has quickly become my number one visited site, which is both entertaining as well as enabling.

Here is my truck as it sits today:
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For those that don't know, the story started a few months ago when I went to the Seattle area to pick up a Brand New, showroom condition, 0 mile 1984 Ford F-350 Flatbed. At least, it started that way 34 years ago. By the time I got there, it was a $900 rusted out truck that doesn't start (no starter), doesn't stop (leaking brake m/c that drips a quart every 15 minutes), and needs a new flatbed floor. But it was bound to be mine.

It started with an attempt to drive it home to Montana from Seattle, but to those of you that remember, it didn't end well (https://www.oilburners.net/threads/bought-one-now-to-drive-it-600-miles.83516/)

Life has gotten simply crazy in the intervening months (I have 4 kids. Need I say more?!) but on Labor day weekend I was able to make a round trip to go and pick up the truck using my buddy's truck and trailer. Drove over and back the same day, 1,100 miles in 23 hours.

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It was a long trek made longer when I pulled just a biiit too far forward loading the truck at 1am before locking in the ramp. D'Oh!

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Huge shoutout to The_Josh_Bear for being willing to meet me outside Seattle to help diagnose this beast. Unfortunately my timing didn't allow the meetup (left later than I wanted, had to be back earlier than I planned), but I sure appreciate the friendliness of this community. You guys are awesome!

So, from there, I got the truck home, where he sits now. My son, who thinks sitting in the front seat is aaaahhhhmazing, named the truck: Fred. But not just Fred, it's Fred the Flatbed. But it's also Red. So... we now have Red Fred the Rusty ol Flatbed. We'll call it Fred for short.

With that dramatic retrieval, I now am the proud owner of ... a project. We live on 10 acres in the woods which means at this point I essentially have a diesel powered wheelbarrow to lug my wood around. There are a few pretty major issues I'd like to address, and I'll keep the progress updated here as i discover the roots. I feel some may be connected, but I'd love to hear your guys' thoughts.

Major Known Issues List:
1. Doesn't start. Well, that's not fair. It does, but it takes a shot of ether to start up. I've never been able to start it without ether, regardless of outdoor temps. Glow Plugs are completely dead (from what I can tell) with no light that comes on in the dash. I assume that means I need a new controller and some good beru plugs. Where is the recommended vendor for these?

2. Dies. I touched on it in my previous thread, but two times now it has died driving up a hill at 50mph, and then again at 60mph on the freeway. Both after it was fully warmed up, after about 3/4 of a mile at speed, and it sputtered and died. The mechanic who had it (previous goal was to drive it home, so it started at the mechanic) put in new return lines, a new fuel pump, and bypassed the Fuel/Water separator (I believe? Can someone confirm this from the pictures below?) and he said neither fix addressed it. I think the next thing to look at will be the Tank Selector Switch. Is there a tutorial here that shows the best method to get to these?

3. Tank(s?) leak. When I filled up the truck for the drive home I got it full, but as it was loaded on the tow truck it was leaking pretty badly. I assume there's a hole in the tank, but could it be something else down there? A bad gasket perhaps? Has anyone had that happen?

Minor Known Issues:
4. Seriously need some new bed-wood. It's completely rotten out. Bonus though - it will make working on the tank super easy.

5. Pops out of third gear on deceleration. I assume it's a worn tranny component, but it's not a huge deal at this point.

6. The seat is destroyed, I need to get a new one.

7. Fuel Selector Switch (see above). I was told by PO that rear tank didn't work at all. I'd like to address this.

8. Pound out the significant dents by the doors

There we go. Before I can really start to dive into it I've gotta get the doors on my shop I'm building before the snow flies. Then I'll have a place to work on it when it gets coooooold here in just a month or so (-20F last year). I'd love to hear your input of where go begin when it comes to diagnosing.

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riphip

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Nice truck for the age. Rare to see original hood insulation.
Get either a cowl seal or trash can lid to cover that air filter housing to keep water out of intake.
Get a short alternator to water pump belt belt to cut out the vibration on the long (alt-wp-crank) belt.
Dayco #17425
Looks like it is earning it's keep for winter.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Nice rig!! Now I'm even more bummed I couldn't help out, pretty sweet.

I have a pretty cheap/easy way to solve about 3 of your problems:
Order the 38 gallon Bronco tank, drop the other two and cut out the FSV. Use fuel-rated hose to splice the nylon lines back together and you'll never have to worry about leaking tanks or valve failure! Just dont over-tighten the hose clamps, they become oval and ruin the seal. Better yet are spring clamps or t-bolt/constant pressure clamps. But I used regular hose clamps 8 years ago with no issue since.
You'll have to buy 4 longer bolts for the tank and make your own spacers for the skid plates(I used PVC pipe cause it's cheap and easy). Dont forget the blue thread locker! (Ask me how I know)

For glow plugs, I think theres a tech article on the old-style controller and setup you have.
However you can also bypass the controller and use a momentary switch instead. It's rather easy and no one will ever be able to steal it, lol.
I've run one for years...8 or 9. No issues at all. I even have my old controller removed and it made re-routing the GP relay way easier when my turbo install happened.
 
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u2slow

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Love the firewood bin/deck... I gotta build me one :Thumbs Up

+1 on the momentary glowplug switch. Best way to go IMO.

+1 on the Bronco (or larger) tank. I did a Blazer tank on a chevy crewcab years ago. Worked slick.
 

IDIBRONCO

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The first thing I'd do is to put a starter on it if you haven't already. I assume that you have. Just assume that all 8 glow plugs are bad and buy all 8. That way, if you're lucky, you may have one or two spare Motorcraft glow plugs. I'd have to agree on the Bronco tank and bypassing the FSV. Another thing, you have the short, wide radiator. I don't believe that there's an aftermarket replacement. I HATE those things with a passion anyway. I only ran into 3 or 4 at the most, but I think that they're WAAAY harder to pull out than the tall, narrow one. The extra width just seemed to get in the way of everything when I was pulling or installing them.
 

hce

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Saw the bikes hiding in back, now I just want to go ride single track in the mountains.
I would check out Novco in Missoula. I used to get parts from Novco in Great Falls before its closing. Novco had better part lines then the national stores.
Check rock auto and ebay for glow plugs.
Fred should have screw in glow plug controller. Warning they like to break when being removed, but they do work just lying on the intake not screwed in. I have one from accurate diesel, works fair, needs to stay on a little longer for Montana winters. I recommend a push button to activate the glow plug relay when the controller is not quite enough. The pins on the glow plug controller connector can be pulled out and squeezed down to make better contact after 30 plus years of use they may be due.
 

nitroguy

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See? This is why this forum is the best. Awesome advice guys!

Couple follow up questions:
1. If I go the 38 gallon tank route (liking this idea, seems simpler), does it hang lower than stock? If so, I'd need to look at something else. This truck will spend more time driving overland to collect things from my property than on the highway. I'll want taller tires in the future, but to hang the tank lower is going the wrong direction.

2. I like the idea of a push-button Glow Plug. The PO wired up one in the engine compartment all messy-like, but it doesn't seem to work very well (at all, actually). I need to dig into the multimeter to figure out where it's dead, but from what I can tell right now, the whole dang system is just dead in the water. Is there a good article to show where to test the leads to see which component is bad?
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3. I'll check Rock Auto for GP's. I remember there are two kinds of connectors, as an 84 which would I have? Will RA have a controller too, or is there a special vendor recommended there?

4. Yes, I did get a new starter on it. I got a Gear Reduction one so he fires up right away! Here's a link to the start up when it's warm:
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5. Dumb question - where is the FSV? I see the switch in the dash, is it just behind there?

6. The Mechanic put in this fuel filter. Is this black canister behind it on the firewall the fuel/water separator?
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7. riphip - Thanks for the tips. You mention trash can lid, not sure what you mean? Is there a seal I'm missing?
 

u2slow

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The short, wide radiator is still made.... Spectra Premium CU1166 or ADI/PRO 8011166. Rockauto carries them, maybe be other places too.

I absolutely love the little DC clamp ammeter I picked up for automotive stuff. Makes checking glowplugs a breeze. An AC clamp can also be used if it can catch a peak/snapshot value.

IIRC, the bigger rear tank only takes up space your spare tire would anyway. A flatdeck usually sits higher than a pickup bed, so you have more room above the tank than stock. Spectra Premium's website lists tanks sizes. There's stock, Bronco, plus an even larger oversize tank.
 

nitroguy

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Here's a couple videos I shot of the truck idling. I'd love to hear any thoughts you guys have on them. Does it sound right? The second video is me revving it up a bit. It's smoking quite a bit, seems to do it hot or cold. It didn't do it when I picked it up, I am assuming it's because of my 3300ft elevation. Would that be a correct assessment?

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riphip

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The seal on the firewall where the hood closes goes bad (over the air filter housing) and will let water get into the intake. I used 'trash can lid' as an example for some thing to cover the air filter lid to stop this from happening.

I see you still have the original water separator next to the brake booster. Those are bad about letting air into the fuel system when the ring is pulled. IF you do pull that ring to get rid of water, be sure to push the pintle back down & insert a short 3/8" bolt in the bottom of the drain hose (under the driver's side floor board). Easy to get to. Will keep it from sucking air at that point.
You got the right starter:thumbsup:
 

IDIBRONCO

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The short, wide radiator is still made.... Spectra Premium CU1166 or ADI/PRO 8011166. Rockauto carries them, maybe be other places too.
Thanks for the info. Obviously I didn't realize this.
I see you still have the original water separator next to the brake booster. Those are bad about letting air into the fuel system when the ring is pulled. IF you do pull that ring to get rid of water, be sure to push the pintle back down & insert a short 3/8" bolt in the bottom of the drain hose (under the driver's side floor board). Easy to get to. Will keep it from sucking air at that point.
It's been bypassed already. I don't see any fuel lines hooked up to it in the picture. Maybe the filter was used to connect the lines when they were taken off of the water seperator.
 

Thewespaul

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38 gallon tank does not hang down that low
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If you have no power to anything, check the connector on the passenger side of the engine. These like to melt and kill gp power

Tank selector valve will be on the frame between the trans mount and front tank

Looks like the water seperator has been bypassed

The seal he’s talking about is the cowl seal

Listening to the video the truck sounds too advanced to me on my crappy phone speaker but white smoke usually means too retarded timing, advanced is usually black.
 

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