First diesel purchase - need advice

[DavidS]

So I'm about to enter the world of diesel Fords. The truck in question is an '89 7.3 4x4 5 spd, extended cab, long bed. 290k on the odometer.

I know these engines have a reputation for running forever, but I'm worried about suspension/drivetrain. Anything common failure items on this year that I should keep an eye out for?

Seller is asking $3k. Is this reasonable (assuming fair condition). I haven't actually visited the truck yet, that's tomorrow morning.

Truck would be used for occasional boat towing (~5000 lbs), and other chores. It won't have a hard life in other words.

Thanks in advance for any info!

-David

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the best idi forum on the net. The engine is concidered a high mileage runner but some things you need to ask. Was a coolant sca used. If not then you may want to walk away.Supamental coolant additive (sca) is used to stop the cylinder errosion that happens in a thin wall diesel engine. Ask how often the injection pump or injectors are replaced. They last around 125 to 150 thous miles. Some shorter but rarely some longer. How often was the oil changed. Being a 4x4 they need attension too. U joints are a wear issue up front. Some differantials have only outers and some have inner and outer. The 5 speed is a great trans. Has it been rebuilt. Others here can tell more on them than I can. I don't use one. The clutch these engines came with is a dual mass setup. They wear out and start to rattle terribly. Replace them with a single mass clutch flywheel kit. If it has a single mass in it now there probably will be some gear rollover noise. Again I can't say what its like or what is ok. Some noise will be heard. Hopefully others will add to what I have started.

 

[DragRag]

IMO that is a lot of money for 300k miles truck. $1500 would be more in line with the maintenance and repairs you inevitably will need to perform.

 

[DavidS]

I tend to agree

I just looked it up on KBB (as a 1991 even, it doesn't go back to 89!) with all the options I think it might have, and "Good" condition was $2,436. From the picture is looks like the paint is shot, which would move it IMO down to "Fair" ($1,961).

Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming!

 

[OnDaRoad]

Take someone with you that has experience

Dave,

No advice on the internet compares with a live person
who has firsthand experience present with you ...

If you don't have a friend - find one fast ...

Try posting your zip code here - maybe someone is close



Jim

 

[Rot Box]

If it runs good and looks good I'd walk away with it for 2000-$2500 max. Give her a full tune up, replace the o-rings in the injectors (you'll definitely hear all about those on this board) and you should be good to go. Make sure all the injectors match. The last owner of my 91 changed them when they would fail so as the story goes it had BB's on one side and D's on the other (big no-no to mix injectors on an IDI). Glow plug issues haunt all IDI, just make sure you use the Motorcraft Beru's and you should be good to go.

I agree with Gary SCA's are very important in the 7.3 however I wouldn't count on the owner knowing what that is. Nobody around here has ever heard of it anyway. They are great trucks, but like any old vehicle you have to be mechanically inclined to own one. Good luck post pics when you bring her home

 

[GenLightening]

Also see what brand of glowplugs are in it. The best would be the Motorcraft/Beru. Most others can cause issues.

You beat me to it Rotbox!

 

[Agnem]

Be sure to read our forum FAQ's and gloss through the technical articles. Many things there you should be aware of when you go shopping.

 

[DavidS]

This is all good stuff guys, thanks!
Usually when I buy a used vehicle I take it a shop I trust for the final inspection, and this instance (especially) will be no exception.

Will post pictures once I have them (unless she turns out to be junk)

 

[DavidS]

Actually, speaking of this pre-purchase inspection, can anyone recommend a diesel shop in Newport News or Hampton, VA?

 

[Diesel_brad]

IMO that is a lot of money for 300k miles truck. $1500 would be more in line with the maintenance and repairs you inevitably will need to perform.

Agreed

 

[Diesel Max]

Price seems a little high to me...............

 

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Pricing

I got my truck for $1800.00, and i have no clue what the mileage is. My speedometer only has a 99,999 meter, not a 999,999 meter, and it says something like 86,000 +.

$3,000.00 is too much in my opinion. Using my truck as an example, here is why :

my sending units for my fuel tanks are bad (1,000 + listings on that issue...), Fuel lift pump/all filters replaced due to age, Faulty Fuel lines replaced due to age.....

Skipping to more important notes :
My truck needs a new ***** motor for the ***** on it which is around $350.00, ***** cable is bad, that's $200.00, truck didn't come with ***** control, so that's another $100.00. Not to mention that the guy i got it from put straight bio in it, and I had to repair that problem.

The list goes on. However, some things you might ask yourself are about the following parts :

1)injector pump upwards of $600.00 to replace
2)fuel tank sending units...
3)block oil heater (referring to o-rings)
4)starter motor
5)aforementioned glow plugs
6)aforementioned sca's in radiator
7) injectors atleast $50.00+/= to replace (each)
8)RUST
9)after market add-ons (turbo, gear vendors unit, etc etc)
10)Wiring harness (idiotic fuseable links, age of wiring, etc)


Don't get scared, just be informed!

I got my truck in the condition I did because I am a mechanic, disabled from the army, and I wanted a project to work on. Something to destress me and give me something positive to do. Some of the parts on our diesel trucks can get to be fairly expensive. So just be as informed as you can about the truck before you get it. If you smell a problem, ask one of the guys on here for advice. You will get it before you can blink.

 

[Michael Fowler]

Check for rust, not only on the body ( cab mounts especially, but rear wheel openings, too), but also the frame. Look carefully at the rear spring hangers. The repair is not difficult, but it is messy, and if needed, should be a bargaining chip in your favor.

 

[DavidS]

So I looked at the truck this morning.
Some notes:

Body was largely rust free, as was the frame. Doors open and shut normally. Tailgate latch broken.

Bed has a fifth wheel mount in it. (heavy towing somewhere in its history?)

Interior well worn, driver's seat ripped.

Started easily, little smoke. Idled smoothly, with no rattles.

Noticed that the steering column shifts L-R when clutch or break is depressed.

Owner's neighbor was showing the truck, as owner was at work, so questions such as age of injectors/pump, use of SCA, etc. he was not able to answer.

Was about to take a test drive, and go up to the nearby Ford dealership for an inspection, but decided to feel out negotiability on price before dropping $100 on the inspection.

Discovered that owner is firm on $3k, and has another interested party who is trying to get the funds in that amount.

So decided to hold off on the inspection based on the situation. I let him know that pending a good report card from the dealership I could go up to $2500.We'll see what happens.

Sorry for the stream of consciousness style of this post. Part this was just to get my own thoughts in order.

-David