8gitmusik1
1994_E350_7.3_IDI_N/A_E4OD
Hello and good day to ya'll!
Best proceedure to "FIRST START" a long sitting 94-7.3 IDI-N/A?
I'm starting this thread so myself and others can have a thread dedicated to "cold starts/first starts" of vehicles with engines that have been sitting for longer periods of time, and, how a person that is NOT a mechanic, but, who is mechanically inclined, should proceed with the STEP -BY -STEP process of safely re-starting a FORD 7.3L IDI Naturally Aspirated - DIESEL engine in this, following type of scenario.
Lets say a person finds a good deal on a 1994 One Ton (E350) CARGO VAN that had a leaking radiator. The van is all original and the odometer read 320,000. And, lets add, that, due to finances, the owner parked the van while it still ran very well, intending to save the money up to purchase the expensive OEM radiator (average price for OEM brass and copper radiator for this application is $400-500).
Then, life happened. A relationship with a woman ended, and that caused a separation of assets and property, and turned life "UPSIDE DOWN" so the owner of the van had to park the vehicle for several years, essentailly storing it under a carport till life and finances allowed him to revisit repairing the van.
So, in a nutshell, if YOU had such a vehicle or purchased a vehicle for a good deal...i.e in this condition....
With this information....
Previously known to be great running and shifting running drivetrain and good to great, (minimal rust or corrosion anywhere on body and frame)......
How would you proceed in the start up process?
NOTE-
1. The engine has had coolant in it and when recently drained showed some rusty colored water (very light slightly reddish, more than green) but ?.
2. The oil doesnt seem to have any water or coolant in it.
3. A NEW radiator and hoses has been bought. Fleet Charge precharged concentrate and distilled water has been obtained, as well as a Prestone flush kit, and Prestone flush treatment has been obtained also.
4. Has good, newer glow plugs and glow plug relay.
5. Has newer dual batteries.
6. Oil will be drained and replaced with new Motorcraft 15-40 oil and Motorcraft oil filter will be installed.
7. New FUEL filter will be installed, filled 50/50 with fresh diesel and Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil or Diesel Kleen, not sure which, what do you all suggest?
Also:
- I am not sure how to preceed with a coolant system flush if I don't, first, start the engine due to the original radiator having some visual white sediment/corrosion in the top of the fins when I visually inspect the fill cap area after removing the radiator cap.
- Should I just fill up the original radiator with really clean, filtered WELL water and run it first before flushing everything and drain it several times just to get things, i.e. moving again? IDK how exactly is the safest or best method or way to proceed from here....
- It seems like a good idea to me but, would YOU (anyone) suggest installing a new or remanufactured water pump in while the radiator is out?
- Would you put anything, i.e. LUBRICANT of ANY KIND into the cylinder walls before the pistons start to move again for the FIRST time in a long time.
- Would you change the Transmission fluid and filter as a preventitive measure after start up?
- Would you drain and replace the gear oil in the rear end as a preventitive measure?
- What other preventative first start up measures would you suggest or take to prevent any addition more costly mechanical problems later?
If this were YOU, how would YOU proceed?
Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
Best proceedure to "FIRST START" a long sitting 94-7.3 IDI-N/A?
I'm starting this thread so myself and others can have a thread dedicated to "cold starts/first starts" of vehicles with engines that have been sitting for longer periods of time, and, how a person that is NOT a mechanic, but, who is mechanically inclined, should proceed with the STEP -BY -STEP process of safely re-starting a FORD 7.3L IDI Naturally Aspirated - DIESEL engine in this, following type of scenario.
Lets say a person finds a good deal on a 1994 One Ton (E350) CARGO VAN that had a leaking radiator. The van is all original and the odometer read 320,000. And, lets add, that, due to finances, the owner parked the van while it still ran very well, intending to save the money up to purchase the expensive OEM radiator (average price for OEM brass and copper radiator for this application is $400-500).
Then, life happened. A relationship with a woman ended, and that caused a separation of assets and property, and turned life "UPSIDE DOWN" so the owner of the van had to park the vehicle for several years, essentailly storing it under a carport till life and finances allowed him to revisit repairing the van.
So, in a nutshell, if YOU had such a vehicle or purchased a vehicle for a good deal...i.e in this condition....
With this information....
Previously known to be great running and shifting running drivetrain and good to great, (minimal rust or corrosion anywhere on body and frame)......
How would you proceed in the start up process?
NOTE-
1. The engine has had coolant in it and when recently drained showed some rusty colored water (very light slightly reddish, more than green) but ?.
2. The oil doesnt seem to have any water or coolant in it.
3. A NEW radiator and hoses has been bought. Fleet Charge precharged concentrate and distilled water has been obtained, as well as a Prestone flush kit, and Prestone flush treatment has been obtained also.
4. Has good, newer glow plugs and glow plug relay.
5. Has newer dual batteries.
6. Oil will be drained and replaced with new Motorcraft 15-40 oil and Motorcraft oil filter will be installed.
7. New FUEL filter will be installed, filled 50/50 with fresh diesel and Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil or Diesel Kleen, not sure which, what do you all suggest?
Also:
- I am not sure how to preceed with a coolant system flush if I don't, first, start the engine due to the original radiator having some visual white sediment/corrosion in the top of the fins when I visually inspect the fill cap area after removing the radiator cap.
- Should I just fill up the original radiator with really clean, filtered WELL water and run it first before flushing everything and drain it several times just to get things, i.e. moving again? IDK how exactly is the safest or best method or way to proceed from here....
- It seems like a good idea to me but, would YOU (anyone) suggest installing a new or remanufactured water pump in while the radiator is out?
- Would you put anything, i.e. LUBRICANT of ANY KIND into the cylinder walls before the pistons start to move again for the FIRST time in a long time.
- Would you change the Transmission fluid and filter as a preventitive measure after start up?
- Would you drain and replace the gear oil in the rear end as a preventitive measure?
- What other preventative first start up measures would you suggest or take to prevent any addition more costly mechanical problems later?
If this were YOU, how would YOU proceed?
Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
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