Factory Turbo Exhaust Outlet Mod

redneckaggie

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factory downpipe is flattened in one spot and very restrictive, do you really NEED 3 in directly off of the exhaust housing? prob not unless you are going to be pushing it pretty hard, but it sure cant hurt
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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so i finally welded up my outlet. came out pretty good if i do say so my self. LOL

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my temporary vice....
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snicklas

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IH #2 Trailer Vice..... nice......

Nice looking outlet.... turned out well


BTW - The hood of a Cub Cadet makes a good workbench.......
 

icanfixall

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I'm sorry to say this but thats not a very good weld. I can see some of the inside where there is no gap and no penatration. When you were welding it any burn thru penatration would have made the sound of bacon or eggs cooking and small sparks could have been seen on the inside as you worked. I'm hopeing you don't have any leaks where the welds joined what you had layed down already. Some advice for future welds like this. Makes a gap between both parts with some weld wire 1/16 thick. Bevel the weld sides. When you need to stop to get a better weld position overlap where you left off. When you reach the end of the gap tie in good by overlapping the weld. Grinding down overlap welds is better that having a pin hole because you dodn't overlap well enough. Penatration is a big thing in welding anything. Its part to the three most inportant things. Gap. Clean and heat. Try this before you install it. Carefully drip some diesel on the outside weld. Let it stay on the weld over nite. Check in the morning for any wetness inside the housing. Heres hopeing you have a dry tight weld. Once again. I'm sorry to say the weld does not look that good but I understand too that it may be fine and I'm seeing nothing that will cause a problem. I was a welder for 30+ years so I speak with some authority when I say what I say. My speciality was tig welding stainless and inconel material but I did the stick rod too. Never like mig welding...
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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i got the inside of the housing ported after school. i did not have any carbide bits, but i do have some old, crappy grinding stones, so i tried those. worked great and went really fast. i am now officially ready for the turbo.

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'94IDITurbo7.3

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Gary, i do appreciate your input.

i didn't bevel the two pieces, but i did put a piece of .030" welding wire in between the two. i also preheated with an oxy torch. you can't see it in the pics, but when holding the housing you can see that i got almost 100% penetration all the way around the hole. i know ideally you want 100% but i would say that i got ~90%. there is one spot that i did burn all the way threw, i actually blew a hole in the v-band flange, but i was able to fill it in easily.

i know i did not use the ideal welding process but i am confident that it will hold and it will seal, and as long as you get both of those things it doesn't matter how ugly the bead is.
 
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icanfixall

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I have seen ugly weld beads hold fine. What concerned me was the blueing that shows no complete penatration happening and the weld ends really needed more overlap. Your latest pics are kinda blurry but the inside appears like its going to work well. Good deal with the gap too. I sure wish I had a tif torch here at home and a positioner that would rotate the pieces. Thats the easiest way to weld around something. You get it to turn and just feed wire and heat. Do test the weld with some diesel on the outside before you onstall the piece. Its easier to repair a pin hole now then it is once carbon gets blasted into it. The only way to remove carbon from combustion is to grind it out. No amount of heat will burn it out. Soot is the same thing too. If you find a hole clean it out with something other than brake clean. Welding after cleaning with that stuff makes a deadly gas. Alcohol will be a safe cleaner.. Not the drinking kind....
 
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