I like my air to air!
and if I ever do a inline engine swap, it will be a DT
Mike, that link does not work for me.
and if I ever do a inline engine swap, it will be a DT
Mike, that link does not work for me.
extra cooling.
- Thread starter IDIoit
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Black dawg
Registered User
Looks like there is room for improvement in the fan shroud to radiator fit/seal. The biggest thing I did to mine to help cooling was early fan clutch engagement, and replacing the fan blade with one from a parts truck I had. I still don't fully understand the fan blade...it was original to this truck, and I had never ever heard the fan engage...so I locked the clutch solid...still couldn't hear that fan. I compared the original blade to one from this parts truck, and it was slightly different. I put it on my locked up clutch, and it was very noisy......just like it should be.
With the noisy fan and the solid clutch I couldn't get the temps over 215 ish (vs unable to keep it under 240 loaded heavy). Now with a modded clutch, as soon as that clutch locks, I can run the **** out of it without worrying about coolant temps.
Another thing, since you have a serp belt system, is build a pulley to speed the water pump/fan up...they are WAY under driven. I knew a guy who did this (he had a machine shop) and made a solid fan clutch and a pulley to speed it up...he said it cured all his cooling issues in a
very hard worked factory turbo idi pickup.
With the noisy fan and the solid clutch I couldn't get the temps over 215 ish (vs unable to keep it under 240 loaded heavy). Now with a modded clutch, as soon as that clutch locks, I can run the **** out of it without worrying about coolant temps.
Another thing, since you have a serp belt system, is build a pulley to speed the water pump/fan up...they are WAY under driven. I knew a guy who did this (he had a machine shop) and made a solid fan clutch and a pulley to speed it up...he said it cured all his cooling issues in a
very hard worked factory turbo idi pickup.
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
Hmm, well I bet a 4 row champion would be even better in your application. Wouldnt go with an electrical fan. They are junk and don’t move enough air for these beasts.
I would say one of the best things that can be done for a 7.3 is removing those rear corner freeze plugs in cylinder heads. That’ll allow much better cooling efficiency by allowing the coolant passages to do their job.
I would say one of the best things that can be done for a 7.3 is removing those rear corner freeze plugs in cylinder heads. That’ll allow much better cooling efficiency by allowing the coolant passages to do their job.
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/electic-fan-clutch.70947/
Does this one? The old one worked for me.
Does this one? The old one worked for me.
Digging around I also found this.
Sorry. Wrong link. Fixed.
http://www.shop.perma-cool.com/40110-HD-Oil-Cooler-Kit-1983-2003-FORD-Truck-69-73L-Diesel-40110.htm
Sorry. Wrong link. Fixed.
http://www.shop.perma-cool.com/40110-HD-Oil-Cooler-Kit-1983-2003-FORD-Truck-69-73L-Diesel-40110.htm
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
That’s pretty slick. Looks like clutch is electronically activated. Far better than an actual electric fan and probably a hell of a lot better than what our rigs have stock. Most semi rigs have something similar
Not cheap though.
I wonder where the best bang for the buck is? Fan or aux cooling. I’ve got the manifold my coolant filter and turbo are tapped into so a small secondary cooler wouldn’t be hard to add if I had a place.
I wonder where the best bang for the buck is? Fan or aux cooling. I’ve got the manifold my coolant filter and turbo are tapped into so a small secondary cooler wouldn’t be hard to add if I had a place.
mike, post #19 is exactly what I want to do.
When I did my water pump I got a new motorcraft fan clutch from rock auto I think? Either way when I was idling twice with the a.c. on my water temps went up to 220 while sitting in the city. That never happened with the old dirty one I pulled off and it wasn't locked solid.
I did also put in a new thermostat so maybe my old one stayed open partially or something but if I ever have a cooling issue that's legit i might toss the old fan clutch back on because this one seems suspect after like two weeks. Haven't felt it lock once yet even sitting at 220 that day.
I did also put in a new thermostat so maybe my old one stayed open partially or something but if I ever have a cooling issue that's legit i might toss the old fan clutch back on because this one seems suspect after like two weeks. Haven't felt it lock once yet even sitting at 220 that day.
The 6.0 PSD has an electric clutch, mechanical fan setup. Problem is, the PSD's spin the other way......
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MIDNIGHT RIDER
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I would have 100% agreed with that until a few days ago; we were gathered under a shade tree, working on a silage chopper, when a friend drove up in his two-year-old Chevrolet diesel whatever-it-is truck and left it idling with the A/C running; the truck was probably a hundred feet from where we were and all of a sudden we started hearing this roar that sounded like a big silage blower spinning up and cornstalks fifty feet away were instantly sucked against the grille.
The roar was a huge electric fan that had kicked on; it was so loud that it drowned out the racket being made by the DT466 in the tractor and the whine of the chopper.
That convinced me right then and there that there are some good electric fans.
I also have a brand new motor craft fan clutch from rock auto. I also put a brand new motor craft thermostat installed. I’ve also cut out the bumper for the OBS trim piece. My rad shroud is in tact.
It looks like 300-500 minimum investment for any of these cooling upgrades. Mishimoto rad is $500+ . Rodney Red is more than that. What looks like it might be a quasi bolt on fan clutch sells for like $800-$900. It probably sis not a direct swap because the length is wrong so add on a fan to that. To run an aux oil cooler, that kit is right at $300 without the filters. Then you still have the problem of where do you put it. Same with an aux rad. Where do you put it? On a brick, if you have IC, AC and rad in a stack you don’t have any place to put pushers.
Edit: there is also the spring mod on the fan clutch which is basically free I guess.
Any other real options? Rule of thumb is that you dissipate close to 30% total energy content of the fuel directly to heat in the engine cooling system. That’s a lot of heat when you start adding fuel.
So what do you do?? What is the best bang for the buck? Loosing AC is a non-starter for me. For me, I’m so close to having a solid package, this I think is the last real piece to deal with.
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F350camper
BOOST!
I dare one of you guys to do some testing with the hood on, then repeat with the hood off.
the only problem with this is that the only viable stretch of road I can really push my truck is over an hour away at 80 mph
Do you triple dog dare me?? Come help me pull the hood and we will talk. 
So you really think it’s heat stacking?? I could see an argument for that. I’m not sure how you solve that problem. Cowl hood would have the opposite effect right?? That’s how the muscle cars had the cowl effect. It was a high pressure zone that formed at the base of the windshield. Short or louvers in the fenders, I’m not sure how you get better air flow unless you run hoodless.
So you really think it’s heat stacking?? I could see an argument for that. I’m not sure how you solve that problem. Cowl hood would have the opposite effect right?? That’s how the muscle cars had the cowl effect. It was a high pressure zone that formed at the base of the windshield. Short or louvers in the fenders, I’m not sure how you get better air flow unless you run hoodless.
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