'89 F350 Trans Cooler Install

[JPM4]

Hey guys, I posted this on another site, but wanted to post here also just in case members here are not on the other site.

Since I couldn’t find an exact mounting video or thread for my exact model, 1989 F350, I thought I would post the below. I had a small trans cooler that has been installed for years, but it was zip tied directly to the radiator. When I bought a new radiator a while back, I didn’t want to stick anything through the radiator fins again, so I hard mounted this one.

When I tried to buy Tru-Cool LPD47391, amazon had numerous off brands, and the ones that had the tru-cool part number sneakily listed the actual brand as something different. So I stuck with summit instead of amazon and picked the Mishimoto MMTC-SP-13BK. It was pretty close to the same size as the Tru-Cool LPD47391. It was more expensive, but should be good quality.

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It came with mounting hardware, hose barbs and hose. I used my own ¼-20 bolts, locknuts and hose. The included probably would have been fine, but they felt a little cheap and I like actual good locknuts. I also used several ¼-20 rivet-nuts and two ½” spacers. Rivet-nuts make install/removal much easier. If you haven’t used them, just do an internet search. You can get rivet-nut install tool from $8 to $100 depending on what you want to spend.

Below pic, I used one Rivet nut and one existing hood latch bolt to mount the included top brackets. I shifted it toward the center of the truck to allow the trans cooler to miss the AC condenser mounting bracket.

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Below is a pic of the trans cooler mounted, bolt heads to the rear to give more clearance away from the AC condenser.

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Two rivet nuts installed in the lower part of the radiator support.

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I added ½” spacers for clearance and to keep the mounting brackets off the lip of the radiator support.

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The trans cooler has slotted holes for mounting, which opened the tolerances plenty to make everything mount smoothly. Always wait until all the bolts are in before snugging up all the bolts (or else you’ll be loosening everything to shift it around to get the bolt holes to line up).

Routed the hoses around the radiator support, zip tied them to the frame and hooked everything up.



Pre-install/no trans cooler, around 40ish miles running empty, the trans temp topped out around 220F. With the new cooler installed, it topped out a little over 175F. Majority of the drive was in the 160s. I may look into getting one of the temp bypass valves later.

Below is the Auto Meter 8457 Trans Temp gauge kit. The Sending Unit: 2252 fits the test port in the driver’s side of the E4OD. Below was running 65-70mph, Pyro around 700F, boost around 2psi, engine temp about 200F.

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Now my final issue, I want to drive it more, but don’t want to roll the odometer over. Only 200 more miles for the ODO to still be correct. Bought new in 1989, passed from my dad to me a few years ago, so I know that it's original mileage and not rolled yet.

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Hope this helps anyone with this same model with the trans cooler install!

JM

 

[DirtyWood]

Did you use the included 3/8 hose or adapt down to factory 5/16th or 11/32? Nice clean install for a clean ol' truck.

 

[JPM4]

The radiator and trans cooler both have 3/8" hose barbs. I don't know the exact side of the factory metal lines from the transmission. The 3/8" seemed to fit, no leaks and feels secure.

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[DirtyWood]

Hmm. I recently redid my rubber trans cooler lines and they were 5/16th or 11/32, but if the 3/8 isn't leaking then I guess it's okay.

 

[JPM4]

You're probably correct. The 3/8" hose is pretty flexible. At least on mine, the hose clamps did tighten up enough to work.

Does anyone know the part number or source for the below hose with the yellow arrow? I can't seem to find it on any of the typical parts store websites.

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[IDIBRONCO]

Does anyone know the part number or source for the below hose with the yellow arrow? I can't seem to find it on any of the typical parts store websites.

I even tried Ford for that hose back in the late 90's. Apparently it doesn't exist because they couldn't even find it back then. Most people just plug off the radiator there and use a regular heater hose.

 

[DirtyWood]

You don't need that hose. My truck had that lower heater hose when I bought it but after installing a new radiator I ditched that hose. There is a brass fitting with a tiny hole in it that restricts flow so I don't think it serves a critical function. And it's just regular 5/8 heater hose. I like the Gates Green Stripe heater hose.

 

[JPM4]

It does make you wonder the purpose. I do see the small restriction hole (see below). I think I'll follow you guys' advice and plug the radiator hole and replace both heater hoses with straight hose (Gates Green Stripe 5/8 Inch Heater Hose - 28447). The original 5/8" hose is really showing it's age.

I'm tempted to install the ball valve in the heater hose to cut it off during the summer months. The AC struggles when sitting still trying to cool this 4 door cab. Does anyone have any positive or negative feedback from doing that?

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[IDIBRONCO]

The original 5/8" hose is really showing it's age.

I like to take some of the old hose, slit it lengthwise, and then zip tie it to the new hose anywhere it rubs. It doesn't look too pretty, but I like that better than the possibility of a hose having a hole rubbed through it. Sometimes, you can see old hoses that have been rubbed over halfway through.

 

[Greenie]

Quality fuel-injection hose clamps ended the occasional drip and re-tightening of smaller stainless worm-drive hose clamps on the transmission cooler lines.

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[DirtyWood]

Quality fuel-injection hose clamps ended the occasional drip and re-tightening of smaller stainless worm-drive hose clamps on the transmission cooler lines.

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This style of clamp is so much better than regular cheap-o ring clamps. Knock on wood I've never had a problem with one of these clamps.

 

[JPM4]

Ok, now you've got me going down the clamp type rabbit hole. The above clamps are very good. I'm also reading about constant tension clamps being recommended for heater hose and other applications that are subjected to wide temperature variations. I'll be replacing those cheap worm clamps and using better quality clamps on the transmission cooler lines and on the heater hose replacement.

Anybody used these before?
hose clamp constant tension #10,

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7051500

or

https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?q=Gates+32710+&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1

 

[miked]

I have one of the smaller tools from these guys. Have had it for years and find it works great on smaller lines.

Not as quick as a regular clamp but I don't have to drive into town to find a clamp when I need one.

Haven't had a leaky joint yet.

Clamptite Tools – Custom Clamp Making Tool

clamptitetools.com

 

[JPM4]

Thanks DirtyWood, you were correct on the 5/16" hoses. I swapped the clamps over to the spring style "constant tension" clamps, and the 3/8 hoses on the metal transmission lines leaked like crazy. I swapped the hose barbs on the radiator and the transmission cooler to 5/16" barbs and replaced the lines. Now the correct sized hoses and spring clamps seem to work will with no more leaks.

I ended up getting clamps through clipsandfasteners.com and amazon. It was hard finding clamps made in the USA. The cheap clamps at the local parts stores didn't seem that great with low quality steel, didn't seem like actual spring steel.

I also removed the extra heater hose from beside the transmission line and plugged it off when I replaced the heater hoses. I've read that it is there to heat the transmission fluid early, before the thermostat opens up. If that's correct, I'm not too worried, Alabama temps don't get that cold. And it would probably cool down going through the trans cooler anyway.

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1989 F350, 7.3L, ATS Turbo, e4OD, 4.10 gears.

 

[DirtyWood]

I suspect a lot of people are running E4ODs without that extra hose & fitting. A cold day where I live is 35F so I'm not too worried about it. I routed my aux cooler lines like you did but I added some "chafing gear". I cut two small lengths of 5/8 heater hose, slit them lengthwise, and zip-tied them around each cooler line where they might rub against metal components.