extra cooling.

junk

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The 6.0 fan clutch heats up the fluid in the clutch to perform lockup if I understand it right. Ford would actually throttle lockup. Vs a Horton style clutch uses an electro magnet like an ac compressor.

I don't think the clutch probably cares left or right. What was your thoughts to get the threads adapted?

Horton number is a 996127 if anyone's looking.
 

Hydro-idi

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You can always shorten up that spring doohickey on the front of the fan clutch so it’ll kick on sooner. Haven’t done it myself but people swear by it
 

laserjock

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Been thinking seriously about trying this. ^^

I have a spare clutch or two. May get the heat gun out and mess with one and see if I can characterize the lockup difference.
 

asmith

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Funny this was brought up. I have quite a drive to the worksite currently so it gives me lots of time to think. I was just thinking about this last week.
For those who tow heavy a lot and have a hard time keeping it cool wouldn't a secondary/auxiliary radiator make sense. I was thinking if you use your truck mostly for towing you could put another radiator in the bed with some e-fans on it. If you don't need a huge one you may be able to tuck one up underneath the truck as well. I would think plumbing it in as a bypass unit would work just fine, like a bypass oil filter. You may need an electric water pump to go with it as well, it don't know how much water the stock water pump can move.
It would cost some money, but probably not as much a Rodney red. What do you guys think? WOuld it be better to be in line with the main radiator, or bypass? would it be worth it or not?
just a random thought I had going down the road.
 

no mufflers

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I just like the idea of the electric clutch fan because you have more control of it. if your idling with a/c on or about to hit a big hill you can lock it up.
 

Dieselcrawler

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for a quick test, have any of you that are having the heat issues tried anything like water wetter or the like? or even a cup of downy fabric softener. i see big changes when i run water wetter in my derby cars(normally 15-20 degrees with straight water). once you learn what the water wetter does, you stop buying it an use fabric softener. both of them reduce the surface tension of the water, allowing it to flow better. EVERY derby car i run gets a cup of downy in the rad. plus another advantage to downy is the fresh laundry scent when it boils over, which sorta acts as a second warning to you. smell laundry when driving? pull over now! lol

yall may laugh but it works. i ran water wetter in my 94.
 

BioFarmer93

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Towing heavy in Florida (93-96F) summer heat with a 3 row aluminum radiator and the rear head & block cooling passage plugs center punched open to 3/8", I never have seen anything higher than about 217F.. I will say though, that a custom zero air gap shroud and 3 e-fans help with the cooling chores also.
 

laserjock

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I think water wetter is a good first low regret decision. I know guys that swear by it.
 

Thatoneguy

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for a quick test, have any of you that are having the heat issues tried anything like water wetter or the like? or even a cup of downy fabric softener. i see big changes when i run water wetter in my derby cars(normally 15-20 degrees with straight water). once you learn what the water wetter does, you stop buying it an use fabric softener. both of them reduce the surface tension of the water, allowing it to flow better. EVERY derby car i run gets a cup of downy in the rad. plus another advantage to downy is the fresh laundry scent when it boils over, which sorta acts as a second warning to you. smell laundry when driving? pull over now! lol

yall may laugh but it works. i ran water wetter in my 94.

Is there a specific fabric softener that is most ideal? And do you mean literally at measuring cup or how much do you put in for our big cooling systems?
 

reklund

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Water Wetter is usually good for about 10º F. We use it our desert race car in the heat of Nevada and Mexico, and it helps. Our class demands a STOCK cooling system, with no modifications, and we push 37" Tires through the silt at wide open throttle on a 2012 Toyota Landcruiser. It'll hit 235º when we're working it, but it holds together.

My $.02 on cooling in these old IDI's is that it usually comes down to the radiator. I've been leery of the chineseium aluminum radiators for a while now. They're cheap and shiny, but I'm not sure they flow at the correct rate. If they flow too fast, the coolant isn't in them long enough to cool off, and if they flow too slow, it backs up the flow and the engine can't shed the heat. I'm still running my original Ford radiator, and tow heavy in the summer moving race cars and parts round Vegas in 115ºF ambient temps. Mine stays in the normal range of the gauge, and I can hear the fan clutch lock up and unlock depending on load. Far as I can tell, my cooling system is working fine, and I've got an ATS intercooler and the AC condenser in front of the radiator, with the AC blasting in the summer. (I've noticed the AC isn't as great as it used to be- I think next summer will be time for some AC work...)

I've begun to plan on a radiator replacement, as mine has a small pinhole forming in the top tank. Given that it's 25 years old, a replacement is probably in order. I've contacted Griffin radiators about producing a proper aluminum replacement, which they swear they can do, but it won't be cheap. It'll likely be in the $700-$1000 department, similar to a Rodney Red. I'll also look into Ron Davis and other custom radiator manufacturers that we use in the desert racing/ultra 4 community. I'd encourage you guys with cooling problems to do the same. I don't think an auxiliary radiator is the solution, as it adds unnecessary complexity to the system. I've never seen electric fans that are sufficient for heavy towing, so I think the mechanical fan is the way to go. I will say there is some room for improvement on the shroud- sealing it properly against the radiator. Also, sealing the sides and the top of the condenser and IC with foam will direct the flow THROUGH these components, rather than around them.

Lastly, a proper ratio of distilled water to coolant is imperative for efficient heat exchanging. Nothing moves heat as efficiently as pure distilled water, but we must have antifreeze and SCA additive in the systems obviously. Those of you in a hotter climate, where it rarely freezes, can probably get away with a little less antifreeze and a little more water than those guys up North. My truck sees a variety of temps, from Northern Nevada in the winter to Mexico in July, so I run my mix protected to about 20ºF, and use the block heater when I go north, just in case. I realize this may not be feasible for everyone, but it helps for sure when practical. I like distilled water to keep the crud out of the cooling system, and I use a bottle of water wetter along with SCA additive in my truck.

All this reminds me I'm due for a coolant change. Perhaps I should get to ordering that new radiator and do it all at once...


Ryan
 

Clb

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Yea popping out the freeze plugs I get, drilling said block, now is this done useing a 6.9 gasket as a template?
 

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