Engine removal

mr_smith

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2013
Posts
150
Reaction score
9
Location
Detroit MI
I have hit a dead end with the motor currently in the truck. I am planning to buy a used 7.3. I cannot find a tech article or any kind of write up about the enginge removal process..

If someone could kindly point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it!
 

DaytonaBill

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 5, 2008
Posts
503
Reaction score
15
Location
USA
This might be helpful...
 

Attachments

  • Engine_removal_7_3.JPG
    Engine_removal_7_3.JPG
    291.3 KB · Views: 179

GOOSE

Happy IDI'er
Joined
Jun 5, 2009
Posts
3,514
Reaction score
316
Location
Galloway Twp, NJ, USA
You will come to find that they are relatively easy to remove despite their large size and heavy weight.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
 

jaluhn83

Full Access Member
Joined
May 19, 2012
Posts
1,597
Reaction score
48
Location
Upper Marlboro, MD
Get the Haynes diesel engine manual.

It's very straightforward - take off/disconnect everything hooking the engine to the truck, pull the trans, pull the motor mount bolts and start lifting. Many folks here like to remove the front sheet metal. Personally I've never done that, I pull the radiator and hood and lift out the top. *But*, you need some serious lifting power and the ability to angle the engine to really do this. I've used a forklift, front end loader or a big a-frame all the times I've done it, and I have put a few dents in the front cowl trying to get things to fit right. Mind you, that's more cause I had issues with the lifting gear/didnt have a helper then because the method was flawed.
 

FordGuy100

Registered User
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Posts
8,749
Reaction score
282
Location
Silverton, OR
That list in the picture provided above gives you a great example. One thing I didnt do was pull the fan, I actually unbolted the entire water pump as I didnt have a wrench to take the fan off.
 

Wyreth

Certifiable Noob
Joined
Aug 6, 2011
Posts
845
Reaction score
5
Location
Las Vegas, Nv
I would at least remove the grill and radiator support. They come out very easy, and that saves you ALOT of effort trying to get the engine higher that you need to.
 

Bashby

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Posts
232
Reaction score
0
Location
Charles Town WV
I recently swapped mine out, bought an engine crane from autozone rated at 2k lbs. with the boom fully extended it is only rated at 1k lbs. it had no problem lifting it over the core support and rolling with the engine up that high. I left my old engine, accessories and all hanging six inches off the ground for a couple weeks.
No need to remove transmission, especially if you have an at. Put a jack under the trans to lift it and align with lifted engine.
 

riotwarrior

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Posts
14,778
Reaction score
483
Location
Cawston BC. Canada
I can't speak for everyone, however having pulled a few engines in my time, the best method IMHO is to remove the hood and front clip, I don't wast time with rad support only.

The reason I don't do rad support only is it's actually more complex of a job in my experience and if you remove it and bolts break well guess what you still have to replace those even if you remove the clip. With fenders completely off you have so much more access around the engine, all the wiring is out of the way, Everything is gone and you have full access to your engine and it makes removal so much easier.

For a description on clip removal find my Brown Bruin build thread...just used advanced search then key word brown bruin choose title and my username it should come right up for you.

Engine removal is daunting but not all that hard.

Best advice for you LOTS of good tough ZIP LOCK bags then a box to store them all in as you add them in LABELED with what they are from, for example HOOD HINGE, bag and tag, then put away. RAD & Shroud, bag n tag n put in box. Each bag is a separate system of bolts. If you remove each system independently of others and bag and tag them placing them in a box in once central location then you have all your needed parts for installation in a nice manner. If you place each bag in order of removal, then you have an order of installation when it comes time to put it all together.

This system works for NEWBIES and us old hats alike. For specialized bolts I tag and bag but I've done enough of this I know just about everyone...

Things like mounting brackets for accessories and such, take pictures of how they are before you remove them. Nothing worse than looking at a pile of steel plates and wondering *** how does this bolt on again?

Really if you are methodical and use the advice given you should be able to do this in a day. That is get clip and hood removed and also prep engine to pull, completely!

Oh and drain the oil before you pull the engine, if you drop that engine and bust the pan...it's a smaller mess to contend with!

Hope this helps you with your project,

Oh ya, take a SHARPIE felt pen and mark hood hinges around the hinge nice and close so when you go to install it you put it back where it came from.

JM2CW

Al
 

gandalf

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Posts
3,885
Reaction score
1,075
Location
CA &/or Maine
Al has given you the best, most basic advise. His two mantras are the bylaws of engine work for most of us. Bag and tag. Take pictures.

Both suggestions utilize some of God's gifts to mankind: ZipLock bags and a digital camera. Buy an off-brand of ziplock bag. Using a digital camera you can take hundreds of pictures, without the cost of developing film.

Tagging---The best single thing I've found for tagging is airline luggage tags. They're free, available at every airline counter by the handful. :sly ;Sweet They come with a little elastic band to help tie them to most parts as you remove them.
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
Nice idea about the luggage tags Ken.. Now IF I can get an airplne to mail them to me that would be great.. I just hate driving to LAX. Its become a rod of death... Not safe anywhere these days... We should stand up and carry. Those that can show they are capable will know what i mean.
 

idi_econoline

No Bed For Me!
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Posts
928
Reaction score
32
Location
Northern California
Al has given you the best, most basic advise. His two mantras are the bylaws of engine work for most of us. Bag and tag. Take pictures.

Both suggestions utilize some of God's gifts to mankind: ZipLock bags and a digital camera. Buy an off-brand of ziplock bag. Using a digital camera you can take hundreds of pictures, without the cost of developing film.

Yupyupyupyupyup....... on both counts! Both saved my a-- several times.

And life could be worse..... will be van pull #3 for me (in three years), coming soon! :frustrate:frustrate:frustrate

You must be registered for see images attach
 

DaytonaBill

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 5, 2008
Posts
503
Reaction score
15
Location
USA
@ idi_econoline

How long did it take you to pull the engine the last time? and What's your best time putting it back?

I only ask because it took me and the guy who sold me the engine about 6 hrs to get it out of his van...

I'm about done reconfiguring the engine to a F series and will attempt to muster enough mojo to work on it today some more...

I cleaned valve covers inside and out (actually, the inside was very clean, happy about that) and put new o-rings in oil cooler bundle... Am going to finish painting engine and reinstall repaired engine wire harness (glow plug connector tips disintegrated into little crumbs when I pulled them off)...

I might even stab the engine back in later on today... I'm so glad I found a new teflon input shaft seal, I think the old one got nicked when I had to pull the old engine out with the TC hanging off it (the engine seized up before I could get the last TC nut off)... :***:;Pissed:frustrate

Mr. Smith, when ever you get down with the actual task of swapping out your engines, if at anytime you run across a problem, please ask us whatever you need to know and we will try to shine a light on it... That's the reason this place exists, it's to ask and learn.

There is no question too stupid to ask, so ask away and good luck!;Sweet
 

riotwarrior

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Posts
14,778
Reaction score
483
Location
Cawston BC. Canada
Another great place for luggage tags...bus depot! Plain and simple or at least here in Canada they are at bus depots.
 

gandalf

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Posts
3,885
Reaction score
1,075
Location
CA &/or Maine
Another great place for luggage tags...bus depot! Plain and simple or at least here in Canada they are at bus depots.

Very true. Bus depot has them. Train depot has them.

The problem, Al, is that Gary doesn't like going to the airport. I guess he doesn't feel safe there anymore. You apparently haven't visited a bus depot down around Gary's area.:eek: They make the airport look like a walk in the park.
 

idi_econoline

No Bed For Me!
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Posts
928
Reaction score
32
Location
Northern California
@ idi_econoline How long did it take you to pull the engine the last time? and What's your best time putting it back? I only ask because it took me and the guy who sold me the engine about 6 hrs to get it out of his van...

Maybe 7 or 8 coming out, DaytonaBill. Back in, probably more like 9-10. We always got stumped on getting something back together correctly. Gets easier every time ya do it, IMHO.

Of course, the first 2 times, my buddy helped me; he is a true, natural intuitive wrencher. This time, I'm soloing. No wonder I've put it off for months!!!! :rolleyes:

Mr. Smith, when ever you get down with the actual task of swapping out your engines, if at anytime you run across a problem, please ask us whatever you need to know and we will try to shine a light on it... That's the reason this place exists, it's to ask and learn.

There is no question too stupid to ask, so ask away and good luck!

I'll second that; ask away! :Thumbs Up
 
Top