have to do and want to do are different. the truck is running just fine so it's much easier for me to find motivation to rip apart a truck when it's 75 degrees compared to 95
E-fuel
- Thread starter 79jasper
- Start date
is this kit worth the 800 bucks???
seems like something i can do for a fraction of the price on my own.
seems like something i can do for a fraction of the price on my own.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
$625 when I got mine. Could've changed.
For me it was easiest going that route. The parts stores around here suck. No Habla Ingles.
But it's definitely a quality kit.
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For me it was easiest going that route. The parts stores around here suck. No Habla Ingles.
But it's definitely a quality kit.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
I'm sure you diy it, but figure the pump isn't cheap, all the little fittings add up pretty quick. the thing that sealed the deal for me was the new steel fuel lines and his custom manifold. i like that it reuses the pressure valve. other guys have used holley regulators or other different things. Sure you can machine your own manifold it's just an al block, or even just build it from fittings and tee's but this is ready to bolt in and saves me a bit of time. I like the clean, compact pump/filter bracket too.
So I guess you have to decide if you have extra time or extra money to spend on the truck. I have so many other things to do right now like fuel tanks, exhaust, headlights etc so I need to keep my extra time.
So I guess you have to decide if you have extra time or extra money to spend on the truck. I have so many other things to do right now like fuel tanks, exhaust, headlights etc so I need to keep my extra time.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Well.... replaced all the quick disconnect orings. Can provide the numbers if anyone wants them. I don't recommend it though. Lol
So still, same issue. Pulling the valve next. Guess I'll see if there's something in it. I mean it worked fine before I did the efuel.
May also ditch all the quick disconnects and run new line. Clamp and hose never failed me before.
Open to suggestions/ideas before I ditch one of the tanks. I'd rather keep the rear I guess. Lol
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So still, same issue. Pulling the valve next. Guess I'll see if there's something in it. I mean it worked fine before I did the efuel.
May also ditch all the quick disconnects and run new line. Clamp and hose never failed me before.
Open to suggestions/ideas before I ditch one of the tanks. I'd rather keep the rear I guess. Lol
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run dual pumps 
when I had mystery air leaks on my wvo conversion I tracked them down by pressurizing as much of the fuel system as possible. I would clamp off the line a the sending unit, install a temp e-pump/jerry can at the ip and push backwards. this let me pressurize everything except for the first and last hose clamp. the air leak became a fuel leak and was easy to spot. I'm not sure what psi the fsv can handle, but I doubt 7psi pump will hurt it.
maybe you can do the same with a couple psi of air and soapy water.
when I had mystery air leaks on my wvo conversion I tracked them down by pressurizing as much of the fuel system as possible. I would clamp off the line a the sending unit, install a temp e-pump/jerry can at the ip and push backwards. this let me pressurize everything except for the first and last hose clamp. the air leak became a fuel leak and was easy to spot. I'm not sure what psi the fsv can handle, but I doubt 7psi pump will hurt it.
maybe you can do the same with a couple psi of air and soapy water.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
No compressed air though. Lol
I'd have to pull the sender and plug the line there.
I'm wandering what seals the valve together. Maybe my air leak is there.
Thinking about pulling it apart to inspect it anyways.
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I'd have to pull the sender and plug the line there.
I'm wandering what seals the valve together. Maybe my air leak is there.
Thinking about pulling it apart to inspect it anyways.
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those fsv always give me problems. in my idi it's only job is switching the fuel gauges.
didn't you already bypass the fsv and still have the issue?
what fuel pick up is in your rear tank? how much fuel is in your rear tank?
If you still have this mess:
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/at...211-hutch-harpoon-success-20141025_105913.jpg
and the fuel is low enough, is it possible for the whit plastic to be cracked and for you to suck air ? I never took one apart so I'm just spitballing,
didn't you already bypass the fsv and still have the issue?
what fuel pick up is in your rear tank? how much fuel is in your rear tank?
If you still have this mess:
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/at...211-hutch-harpoon-success-20141025_105913.jpg
You must be registered for see images attach
and the fuel is low enough, is it possible for the whit plastic to be cracked and for you to suck air ? I never took one apart so I'm just spitballing,
gnathv
Full Access Member
Have you blown air (10 Lbs) back through the valve. I had a restriction and blew air from outlet of valve on both fuel and return and cleared it.
Switch the valve and blow through to each tank. I would think if your valve was pulling so much air your filter went dry that there would be fuel
dripping from it. I think maybe the e-fuel stirs up the bottom of the tank because of the increased volume of fuel moving. Just some thoughts from my experience when I installed my e-fuel.
Switch the valve and blow through to each tank. I would think if your valve was pulling so much air your filter went dry that there would be fuel
dripping from it. I think maybe the e-fuel stirs up the bottom of the tank because of the increased volume of fuel moving. Just some thoughts from my experience when I installed my e-fuel.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I don't know what that is. Lol
Mine "had" the shower head pickups. Quite awhile back they dissentagrated so I cleaned out the tanks, blew out the lines, and added hose to reach the bottom of the tank. Tanks were spotless when I was done. I literally got every piece of shower head out.
When I installed the efuel I had to end up bypassing the selector valve and ran off the front tank only.
Not a fuel level issue. Lol I can run it under empty, like to the point the gauge stops moving.
But soon as I hook back up to the selector valve with the stock lines, it sucks air.
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Mine "had" the shower head pickups. Quite awhile back they dissentagrated so I cleaned out the tanks, blew out the lines, and added hose to reach the bottom of the tank. Tanks were spotless when I was done. I literally got every piece of shower head out.
When I installed the efuel I had to end up bypassing the selector valve and ran off the front tank only.
Not a fuel level issue. Lol I can run it under empty, like to the point the gauge stops moving.
But soon as I hook back up to the selector valve with the stock lines, it sucks air.
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well, sounds like you have your answer
m-818's have something like this on the floor near the driver's feet.
https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/pro...kGyiwmsFcSWuMR0kg4VZpQ362IJ3HJB3k4aAmZG8P8HAQ
nearly bulletproof
https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/pro...kGyiwmsFcSWuMR0kg4VZpQ362IJ3HJB3k4aAmZG8P8HAQ
nearly bulletproof
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I've seen people use stuff like those.
I just really don't wanna deal with all that. Lol that would put running line's up to in front of the pump, then have to u-turn after the valves to run through the pump. I have thought about it though.
I'm just trying to figure out if it's still a line problem, or the selector valve somehow leaking air.
Like I said, everything worked fine pre-efuel. (Well maybe except the rear tank level sensor. Can't remember. Been almost a year. Lol)
I would look into the bigger rear tank, but being a C&C most won't fit.
Plus my exhaust is already on the tank shield.
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I just really don't wanna deal with all that. Lol that would put running line's up to in front of the pump, then have to u-turn after the valves to run through the pump. I have thought about it though.
I'm just trying to figure out if it's still a line problem, or the selector valve somehow leaking air.
Like I said, everything worked fine pre-efuel. (Well maybe except the rear tank level sensor. Can't remember. Been almost a year. Lol)
I would look into the bigger rear tank, but being a C&C most won't fit.
Plus my exhaust is already on the tank shield.
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
So I have a mighty Vac kit. I'm thinking that should work to tell me if it is sucking air somewhere. (Which it has to be lol)
Now I'm just trying to figure out how I can narrow down where.
I'm thinking I'll hook to the outlet of the selector valve, then plug the tank pickup with something.
I reckon I can cut the clamps off the disconnects to the line's coming from the tanks, that way I can connect into them with the mighty Vac, plus that will allow me to plug the disconnects and test them for leakage. I'll just have to buy more screw clamps to put it all back together.
Anyone see any issues doing it like that?
I figure doing vacuum should show me the problem easier than using pressure.
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Now I'm just trying to figure out how I can narrow down where.
I'm thinking I'll hook to the outlet of the selector valve, then plug the tank pickup with something.
I reckon I can cut the clamps off the disconnects to the line's coming from the tanks, that way I can connect into them with the mighty Vac, plus that will allow me to plug the disconnects and test them for leakage. I'll just have to buy more screw clamps to put it all back together.
Anyone see any issues doing it like that?
I figure doing vacuum should show me the problem easier than using pressure.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
the lines are under vac when the truck runs, just idle your truck and find the leak.
How will you find the leak? think about finding a vac leak on an old carb. it's invisible until you spray brake cleaner. that's why I use pressure.
a fuel pump will leak fuel and a couple psi of air pressure will bubble soapy water.
How will you find the leak? think about finding a vac leak on an old carb. it's invisible until you spray brake cleaner. that's why I use pressure.
a fuel pump will leak fuel and a couple psi of air pressure will bubble soapy water.
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