E-fuel

79jasper

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Only other thing I could do is reverse the flow of my fuel pump. I just don't wanna burn it up.
Would still have to dead head it so it'll create pressure though.
I'm thinking about dropping the front tank to give me more room. Before the 4 inch exhaust, I could sit up between the exhaust and drive shaft. Lol

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nj_m715

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i'm not sure if the fsv will be happy under 70psi. I used a 5-7psi pump in the past.
I would hook it right before your epump, plug as close to your fuel pick up and push fuel backwards, or put the pump at your pick up and push forward. either way you'll need to deadhead it to build pressure and search for the drip
 

nj_m715

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imo, the "best" way would be to pull your sender and attach a temp rubber line to your pick up. that way you can check every possible connection.

maybe you can put 2 or 3 psi into your rear tank. we used to prime cucv's that way when knuckleheads ran them empty. it saved a lot of starter cranking.
we used a rag over the filler and an air line to puff some pressure, but I've seen fuel caps with schrader valves, just be careful with the psi or use a bike pump to be safe.
 

79jasper

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Hmm. Don't really wanna buy another pump. Maybe I'll hit a junkyard and grab one.
I guess I could grab a cheap bicycle pump. Lol oh wait, I have a pump up garden type sprayer. I'm sure I could make that work.

And just to be certain, the 3/8 is feed, 5/16 is return correct?
That's how I've had it hooked up.

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79jasper

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Well didn't find anything that stuck out at me.
Did go ahead and take apart the selector valve. Basically a waste of time. Lol Can't get it all the way down to the actual valves themselves. Must be different than the idi ones. But I did seal it up with some rtv just in case.
It's a weird creature. These actually have a motor in it.

I did pull fuel from the tank with the line's and selector valve hooked up, by using my vacuum pump. Decided to try it anyways, and it has clear line. Once fuel started flowing, no air bubbles.

Let it run for a bit and revved it some. Seems fine so far. But only a actual road test will probably tell. See the other day after replacing the orings, it ran like crap by the time I hit the first stop sign. Maybe 100 meters, if that.

By having the valve apart, it gives good insight on how it works. You learn a few things. Lol
It's not possible for it to pull from both tanks at once, nor return to both at once.
Now it can pull from one and return to the other.

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79jasper

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Well I'm not sure which, but whatever I did fixed it.
Looks like I didn't mention it. But there was also a section where I used a stub of the 5/16 steel line for a barb to connect the 3/8 rubber feed line. This was between the pump and selector valve. Likely could have been the problem also. I just used a piece of 5/16 rubber line. Better fit.
I would've swapped our the metal line, but I didn't have new compression fittings on hand.

Do still have a leak from my rear tank though. Must be the sending unit oring.
Or it has a hole in it.
I'll have to drop my exhaust to pull the tank though.

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79jasper

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Looks like I never updated the oring part numbers.
I found this photo. Here's one of them.
dcc41db2c7eda0eb29f24c8f81b2caed.jpg


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