D-60 Axle Swap

[gabbyr100rs]

I'm about ready to swap in the D60 in place of the D50. It looks like the same U bolts that are holding the D50 will work for the D60. The donor truck also used reverse arch springs--and I am going to retain my stock springs for the time being. I have talked to some mechanics that say re-use the stock u bolts if they will fit--what is your collective experience??

Thanks.

 

[Muddinkev44]

I don't see why you couldnt re-use them....when I did my swap, I got new u-bolts, make sure you have enough thread on the rear bolts cause with that swap you are going to get an extra 2" in the front and if you dont comensate in the rear its gonna look goofy, when I did mine I kept the stock 2" 250 blocks and put 4" springs in front and 6" springs in the rear....I wasnt gonna rig it by stacking blocks and stock 4" 350 blocks were almost $100 each....hope that helps...(it is a good rule of thumb to get new ones thou cause they like to stretch) unless you have grade 8 u-bolts, cause then your good...

 

[sle2115]

I used new bolts for two reasons, 1. I didn't have enough bolt to use the add a leafs 2. the nuts had grown on them!!

 

[Mr_Roboto]

I'd guess that down in Georgia rust would be minimal, which would be my main concern. Up here the threads will rust away everywhere except where the nut sits.

As long as the U-bolts are in good shape, go ahead and re-use them. If there is excessive rust that might compromise the threads, then replace.

 

[gabbyr100rs]

Thanks gents.

Since the D60 is going back onto the stock reverse arch springs--the donor 89 f350 that it came off of had the same springs, and the threads are still good, I will give them a try.

For those of you that have done the swap, will one set of big honkin' jack stands placed behind the rear spring shackles reliably hold up the front?? My truck is an extended cab long bed with a big ranch hand box in the back. I still worry about that heavy front end hanging out in space with me mucking around underneath...... A long nose jack under the cross-member may be just the ticket.

Thanks again.....will attempt pix of the install.

 

[sle2115]

You mean like this?

 

[gabbyr100rs]

Precisely.

Unless you had a skyhook attached to the roof, I take that picture as proof that enough leverage exists out behind to keep the thing in the air until I can get the new axle rolled under the springs.

Thanks!

 

[whitestroker]

Belive it or not,when i took the 44ttb out for a rehab job i used old 16 gal beer kegs. At the time i had no jack stands. grandpa used the kegs to reset the posts in the bank barn. He would stack 4 high and put a 20 ton bottle jack on top. Crude ,yes but I figured it held the barn it should hold the truck

 

[smokin_stroker00]

yes folks he is telling the truth I had the pleasure of working under it with him.


It is ashame the kegs were empty

 

[Muddinkev44]

I just stacked wooden blocks...

 

[160k87F250]

I never liked working underneath a vehicle supported by cinder blocks. Just seems too risky to me. It's well worth it to invest in some heavy duty jack stands.
John

 

[sle2115]

I never liked working underneath a vehicle supported by cinder blocks. Just seems too risky to me. It's well worth it to invest in some heavy duty jack stands.
John

Well, I don't either, but if you know how to use them, holes vertical, they will hold a bunch of weight. If you noticed I also used two per side and then bridged them with lumber. I also made sure the jack stands were on both block once I got things ready. Another thing I did was to minimize my time "under the truck" but most work can be done from reaching in. Once the axle was under it, I put supports at the front bumper as well to relieve some tension. It worked.

 

[gabbyr100rs]

Thanks all.

I have two BIG jack stands and a 5000# high lift floor jack to get the frame high enough in the air. Will set the parking brake hard, and chock the rear tires before beginning the attack with the impact wrench.

Wish I could morph the garage stall into that pole barn, though--having that much elbow room would be a great assist.

I appreciate the sharing of your experience!

 

[Mr_Roboto]

I agree with not working under cinder blocks. It's amazing how truly fragile they are.

What I like to do is throw some old tires / rims underneath as backup support. I seem to have plenty around, toooo many!

 

[ttman4]

it takes only .0000000193 seconds for it to fall on 'ya!!!

I agree with not working under cinder blocks. It's amazing how truly fragile they are.
What I like to do is throw some old tires / rims underneath as backup support. I seem to have plenty around, toooo many!

Ditto and Ditto on both!
Cinder blocks, even sturdy ones can still give way. I've had solid concrete blocks suddenly crack & explode under load....not solid cinder blocks.
I've had solid wooden blocks give & split if the grain is just right under strain.
I try to stack at least two(2) mounted dually tires & rims & slide them under. Preferablly 2 stacks of them under crossmember if possible.

Guys, we all take chances....I have & probably will in the future. I still minimize my time "under the truck" & "reaching in time", but remember, it takes only .0000000193 seconds for it to fall on 'ya!!! Thats fast in anybody's book! Even in slow motion, it's still fast!!
(that's a number I pulled outta my a**....well outta the air, but it sounded FAST!!!)

We all have stuck stuff under there & said "that'll probably work"....but I think it's like buying a loosing stock on the stock market, then "wishing"profits into it......
just my 2 cents
James