Cummins 12V in a 1986 F-250...

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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A 6BT Cummins (Dodge/Cummins) will fit in a 1980-1986 Ford like it was made to be there.

Absolutely NO engine or transmission cross-member modifications are necessary, save for cutting the rivets from the transmission member and moving it aft ONE HOLE.

Keep the HUGE Ford radiator.

A bottom hose cross-over will be needed to get the bottom coolant over to the right side.

The only store-bought thing I recommend, unless you are a good fabricator, is a set of known good engine-mounts; having a set that WILL work just saves a lot of head-scratching and working with compound angles.

The Cummins will shoe-horn into the Ford by only removing the hood; I didn't even evacuate the A/C.


I made a bracket, put the 8-rib Dodge pulley on the 1G Ford alternator, and didn't have to change any wiring; since, that is all gone in lieu of a big Leece-Neville. :backoff


I sandwiched a "B" V-belt pulley on top of the fan pulley to run my Ford A/C and trailer vacuum.

Don't even bother with the intake heater on the Cummins; it does absolutely nothing that aids starting and is totally un-necessary; it was put there in an effort to reduce cold start emissions.

I currently have four 1st Gen. Cummins trucks and not a one has the heaters connected; they start just as quick, if not quicker, without them. ;Sweet
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I forgot to add that I installed a 2-inch body-lift and, therefore, did NO firewall modifications.

If you keep the Dodge specific exhaust manifold, it will fit and work, but will lay right against the A/C evaporator box.

I switched to a standard issue Cummins manifold and now have lots more room. ;Sweet
 

Agnem

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If your swaping to the Cummins strictly for financial reasons, I think your going to be very disappointed. You need to do the KDP mod (if I'm following the lingo right) before you drop that puppy in there, and after the conversion when everything is going well and you need a new IP for THAT motor, your going to need to sit down with a banker and a jar of Rolaids. Better plan out your purchases well in advance, because getting half way through the conversion and deciding this was a bad idea, is not a place you want to be.

However, if your doing the swap because you really want a Cummins, and money is no object, then more power to you. ;Sweet That's the only reason I would do it, if I was gonna do it. The dog licks his bits because he can.
 

Rot Box

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My brother has a 86 F350 2wd with a Cummins/C6-gear vendors. They are a great fit it looks like it came that way from the factory for sure.

I was let down with the radiator in my 92 Cummins and it was almost brand new they are quite smallish compared to the later 94 and newer Dodge radiators. I would highly recommend using the Ford radiator as mentioned earlier and it would be less headache to do so anyway. Find an intake elbow (the one that sits on the grid heater) off of a 98-02 24valve as it flows a lot more than the VE pump style this will help with the PSD intercooler that I would also recommend running because the inlet on the elbow is much larger as well so the plumbing size will match :sly

I would run the grid heater. Every 12 and 24 valve Cummins I had did not start as well without the intake heater. My brothers F350 does not have the grid heater at all (it came with ether injection originally) and it is a bear to start when it is really cold out and not plugged in. This could be just me and dealing with higher mileage trucks, but that's just my .02 :angel:
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I seldom ever disagree with :angel: MEL :angel: ; but I have to say that the BOSCH VE pump and the Cummins in general are a lot simpler and cheaper to maintain than my old IDI 6.9.


That KDP "killer dowel pin" is a locating pin that in about one of every million engines manages to back out of it's bore and drop down into the timing cover, usually just knocking a hole in the cover, but sometimes taking the teeth off a few gears; many many engines wear out two or three trucks and never have any issues with it.

There is a cheap easy simple fix that eliminates the possibility of it ever moving.

Parts are everywhere, as the 6BT was and is used in a whole host of applications.


Don't expect to find many used parts, though, as they never hardly ever quit, unless some racer-punk that could tear up an anvil gets ahold of them. :eek:
 

KyleQ

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Very cool! I plan on installing a 6BT in my 86' F350 either next year or the year after. I'll be watching :)

I'm going after tire shredding power - over 650ft/tq
 

TBigLug

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Mel- I don't know if you got a chance to read the ad on the truck itself but I already did the KDP mod on this one. Also, I'm not seeing the economic disadvantage to having the Cummins. My main deciding factor was the side by side performance comparison. Both trucks are as close to identical as you could get and the Cummins just walks away with the same trailer on the back with the same horses on the inside burning less fuel while it does it. Al;ong with the OD tranny that comes with it for my 120 mile per day round trip to and from work. What's wrong with my IP? Seems IP's for EVERY diesel are outrageous. Not that a higher cost isn't warranted given their complexity and importance but it's kind of a wash across the board for me.

MR- Thanks for the insight. From looking at things I couldn't see why it would be too hard to do. Couple motor mounts then rob bits and pieces off of here and there and shorten a driveshaft and we'll be back in business.
 

TBigLug

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AT- Good lookin' swap. Just got done checking out the heater website as well. Lotsa good info, thanks.
 

Agnem

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Well all I know about Cummins is what I've been told, and that's not a whole lot, so I'll certainly bow to Damon's knowledge and your own research. However, I converted my 5 lug Bronco to 8 lug because I wanted to, and because I wanted to avoid a $300 Ford part that needed replaced. I estimated that my conversion would cost me about $600 but I ended up spending close to $2000 on the conversion. Yes, it was a cluster and it went horribly wrong because I made several very expensive mistakes. There is an inherent risk in doing any kind of swap, especially when used parts are involved. That was my downfall. I should have bought new. Just don't want you to have the same regrets, so my advice.... don't do it, unless you don't care what it's going to cost you. Beware of the risks, and leave a lot of wiggle room in your budget.
 

Rot Box

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I don't think the VE pumps are all that expensive to replace compared to later models. If I remember right a quality replacement is around $600-$800 which isn't tooooo bad considering they last twice as long as our DB2's. The injector pump was one of the things I loved most about my 92--the dynamic timing of the VE rocks!

Aside from having lots and lots of power on the best of days my 92 (5 speed and 4.10's like my IDI) would get 8-10 mpg better than my IDI unloaded. That said I have all but talked myself out of the Cummins swap. The IDI really grew on me ;Sweet
 

crashnzuk

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I converted my 5 lug Bronco to 8 lug because I wanted to, and because I wanted to avoid a $300 Ford part that needed replaced. .

I say go for it, I swapped my trans, t-case, and both axles in my Jeep because the hyd throwout bearing died. It was only a $100 part, but there comes a point when you start throwing money at something that is just going to keep requiring more money be thrown at it.
Travis..
 

TBigLug

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Mel- I do gotta say I respect your opinion and know where you're coming from. I once swapped entire bodies on a truck because I got a flat tire. But that will have to be a story for another time! ;Sweet
 

Mikey89014

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I had installed a cummins in my C30 chevy, i wasnt pleased as i thought after i did the install. The 6 cyl. cummins had alot of vibration and harmonics in the driveline. I sold it and bought another 6.9 project. To me the 6.9 is a better engine than the cummins 6BT.
cummins just has more power stock than 6.9
 

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