Coffee can replacement and work done

[Desertfireguy]

So today, I tackled something I've been lazy on, but it brought forth questions. I replaced my fuel pump (lift pump), changed the front brakes, and replaced the vacuum line going to the coffee can reservoir. On the can, there are 2 rubber nipples where the plastic elbow connects to the line from the manifold. There was only one connected, so I didn't do anything but swap the hose. The question is, should there be something else connected to the other nipple? It looks like something is stuck in there, but I cant tell if it's a plug or just a broken elbow. If I need a new can, are they pretty universal. Any brands to avoid?

Hopefully the new fuel pump takes care of the air intrusion I've been getting. Oh on that, I've seen some folks use a section of clear hose. Diameter and type? Thanks in advance!

 

[icanfixall]

That "can" found on the drivers side fender well is the vacuum resivour for the cruise control. Both lines suck. One is from the vacuum header manifold on the passenger side of the firewall and the other goes to the cruise control. Find the large vacuum hose running across the top of the firewall and follow it to the manifold if you can't easily see it. The vacuum pump has one line from it to this manifold too.

 

[Desertfireguy]

The can has two nipples though, and for some reason my manifold is on the driver's side as well. Should something else be plugged in to the can? The way it's set up now is the can is plugged into the manifold. Line from the pump to the manifold. Line from manifold to cruise (and it works). Line from manifold to the opposite side to power the blend doors for the HVAC.

 

[Desertfireguy]

Got it figured out. bought a new air reservoir and popped it in. One nipple said "man" and the other "amp". Hooked the man to the manifold and ran a new line from amp to the cruise. Much more responsive on the brakes and hardly any lag on setting the cruise.

Also sorted out my air intrusion problem. Tracked it to the damn filter of all things. Had a small leak on the water drain port. New filter fixed it right up.

Tomorrow on to the dreaded oil cooler repair. Anyone have an arm or a leg I can have to offset the cost of the 8000 gallons of coolant and 3000 gallons of oil?

 

[franklin2]

I don't envy you on the oil cooler job. That is one of the worst jobs I have done on any vehicle. Opening the block drains on either side to get rid of the coolant helps, but it still leaks all over.

 

[Desertfireguy]

Well I have to say you took a little wind out of my sails with that post! I've definitely been putting it off and just feeding in some oil occasionally.

Were you able to work it out to the rear of the vehicle without removing anything? I know it'll be a tight squeeze.

 

[jwsfarrier]

I used a port-a- power and jigged it up to push off the end caps on the cooler. Did this on the vehicle without doing anything to the motor mounts. removed the inner fender cover(goes behind the shock) for better access and light. Got off the oil cooler and reinstalled the front cap with new o-ring. Make sure to lube the hell out of everything, you cant use enough. Bolt the front of the oil cooler in to the block with new gaskets and then use the port-a-power again to squeeze it all together. Again, lubrication is crucial. The rear cap should slide on without alot of resistance. It takes some patience to find the best spot for leverage to bring it all together. I ended up doing this on the vehicle because the first time i did it while the engine was out ,I forced the caps together and cut one of the new o-rings. I found that out after I dropped the motor in and fired it up. It really sucks to have have to drain all the coolant and oil you just put in. Lesson learned! I will say,if you are patient, you can get it off and re-installed without messing with motor mounts.

 

[Desertfireguy]

I'll definitely be careful. Don't care to buy that much oil, coolant, and distilled water again until it's actually time to do so. I will post how it goes when I'm done. Unfortunately, a port-a-power is not in my tool collection yet, but I do have a press. Praying to the Ford gods that I can get it out in one piece without taking a bunch of stuff off!

 

[Desertfireguy]

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So I got it off, but had to pull the steering column to take it off in one piece. Went to put it back together, and a gremlin must have eaten my other 2 O-rings. So parts on order. Also, had 2 completely blocked tubes and the others had a fair amount of gunk in them (see picture). Air hose cleaned them out and a 5/32 welding rod (flux removed) cleared the blocked ones. More to come.

 

[Desertfireguy]

Went back together today. Much easier than tear down. Tried to tighten my steering box up a bit, but couldn't get the daggum screw to turn independent of the lock nut. Oh well, guess I'm stuck with my steering play for now.

 

[franklin2]

I took the bolt out of the driver's side motor mount and lifted the engine a little bit to get the cooler out in one piece.

Tightening that adjustment on the steering box rarely gets rid of any play, it just makes it stiff and vague. The large nut on the end gives the best results but you are not supposed to adjust any of this with it installed in the truck, it's all done on the bench.

I have found a rebuilt one from the store is the best bet, your bottom pitman shaft seal is probably getting ready to cut loose anyway.