Changing to syn. oil and what filter u running?

[Trex]

I'am going to change my 1992 7.3 diesel to syn. oil instead of the dino. oil in her, Any thoughts on doing this? Also what oil filter you guys running and a parts number for it? The 7.3 has 150.000 miles on it if that matters.

 

[chillman88]

I and many others are running the Motorcraft FL1995. I've run a couple off brand filters in that size as well.

I personally don't think the synthetics are worth it for these engines simply because of how "dirty" these engines are. They soot up quickly and need to be drained to get that out of the oil. The primary benefit of synthetic is extended drain intervals and I don't feel that's wise in this particular application.

I would like to run gapless rings whenever I rebuild, possibly even with a centrifuge and then I'll run synthetic. In the meantime, I run the cheap stuff and change it when it's due.

 

[captain720]

In my experience synthetic is a good way to cause leaks and drastically reduce the lifespan of your engine. I run from it as fast as possible would not recommend it just doesn't have the protection or zinc that we need plus it costs more. But that is my very stubborn opinion so take with a grain of salt.

 

[hacked89]

FL1995 - whatever oils the cheapest and change 5k max.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I personally don't think the synthetics are worth it for these engines simply because of how "dirty" these engines are. They soot up quickly and need to be drained to get that out of the oil. The primary benefit of synthetic is extended drain intervals and I don't feel that's wise in this particular application.

In my experience synthetic is a good way to cause leaks and drastically reduce the lifespan of your engine. I run from it as fast as possible would not recommend it just doesn't have the protection or zinc that we need plus it costs more. But that is my very stubborn opinion so take with a grain of salt.

FL1995 - whatever oils the cheapest and change 5k max.

I'll 100% agree with all three of these answers. A lot of people like the extra oil capacity that comes from using the larger FL1995 PSD oil filters. I couldn't care less about it. I run them for the better filtration when compared to the IDI oil filters.

 

[CDX825]

Been running 5W40 synthetic in both my 6.9s without issues for years. Synthetic doesn't cause leaks unless you already have a leak. I used to switch back and forth between 5W40 and 15W40. I ran 5W40 in the winter and it made a night and day difference when it came to starting these things. 15W40 is just too thick when it gets below 20 degrees.

As far as filters go everyone loves the FL1995 motorcraft filter for the 7.3 but I no longer use any motorcraft filters. Purolator makes the filters for motorcraft and they have had a serious quality control issue going on for years now. The pleats are known for tearing and alowing unfiltered oil through. I have seen this on several motorcraft filters that I have cut open. If you google purolator tearing issue you will get tons of results as its a well known issue. Several people including myself have tried to contact purolator to let them know whats going on and they refuse to even admit there is a problem. So because of that I won't use any motorcraft or purolator filters on anything I own. There are far better filters on the market anyway. Donaldson, Fleetguard, Baldwin and even Fram makes better filters than Purolator.

 

[Cubey]

I and many others are running the Motorcraft FL1995. I've run a couple off brand filters in that size as well.

Same. On the RV, I'm currently using up Rotella branded Purolator filters that are FL1995 equivs that I got cheap years ago for the F250 before I got the RV. They only get run for ~2500 miles (the OIC for heavy load/dusty conditions, it gets both a lot) so I figure they're fine. I'll go back to Motorcraft ones after I use the last one I have left in a few months.

I run whatever cheapest 15w40 dino oil though, usually Traveller (Tractor Supply) or SuperTech (Walmart). My 4KW Onan generator calls for 15w45 too (4qts!) so it makes things easy.

 

[Brian VT]

I started using Traveller (TSC) diesel oil in my 1985 Benz M110 gas engine based on the research done by fanatics on a Benz forum. It's cheap and has just what older engines need (according to them).
And cheap oil has the added benefit of me being willing to change it more often.
So I'm buying 5 gallon jugs that go in both the Benz and the IDI.

 

[Old Goat]

I like synthetic oil. Have it in the 4-spd T-19 and Diff.
Don`t run it in the engine because it uses oil as it is.
But if it was rebuilt etc.... i would for sure use it.

In my 80 Mercedes 240D, I swapped over to Syn 15-40 at
322K and now up to 383K. it used around a Qt every 1200 miles, and the use did not change. Also did not create any
leaks. I also use the Syn Atf in the 4-spd trans and Diff.

Believe what you want and or use.


Goat

 

[Black dawg]

In my experience synthetic is a good way to cause leaks and drastically reduce the lifespan of your engine. I run from it as fast as possible would not recommend it just doesn't have the protection or zinc that we need plus it costs more. But that is my very stubborn opinion so take with a grain of salt.

Why do these engines need a high zinc level?

I have not seen a difference in oil leaks syn/non.

 

[captain720]

It preserves the camshafts, old camshafts need the zinc at least that's been my understanding as someone coming from the Datsun pickup world

 

[CDX825]

Zinc or ZDDP is only needed for flat tappet lifters and only really an issue with high valve spring pressure. These engines have roller lifters and low spring pressure so its not as crucial.

ZDDP is still a good thing to have in the oil but diesel oil still contains quite a bit. The problem is gasoline specific oil made now doesn't have the zinc in it like it used to. Again really not an issue unless your breaking in a new cam on your old hot rod.

 

[Black dawg]

The zinc is needed with flat tappet cams, as it bonds to the surfaces of the metal creating a barrier/wear layer to protect the cam/lifter surfaces. It absolutely wouldnt hurt one of these engines to use higher zinc/phos levels, but the roller camshaft wont wear prematurely without it.

 

[DrCharles]

I like synthetic oil. Have it in the 4-spd T-19 and Diff.
Don`t run it in the engine because it uses oil as it is.
But if it was rebuilt etc.... i would for sure use it.

In my 80 Mercedes 240D, I swapped over to Syn 15-40 at
322K and now up to 383K. it used around a Qt every 1200 miles, and the use did not change. Also did not create any
leaks. I also use the Syn Atf in the 4-spd trans and Diff.

Interesting, Goat. Some years ago I had a '73 220D that I bought cheap with a knocking engine (had been run out of oil). I rebuilt it myself and it performed as well as a 3000 lb car with 60 flywheel hp could.
Once broken in, I tried synthetic oil also. Immediately I noticed a "ball bearings in a can" pinging under acceleration. Nothing else changed, just the noise. At the next change I went back to dino oil and it sounded normal again. I don't know why... stayed on dino until the body cancered away.

 

[03wr250f]

5w-40 syn for me starts way easier, currently running rotella, but i dont recommend it. international motors burn it faster than other oils. im running it because it was cheap and what walmart had.
fl1995 filter because it adds a extra quart of oil. that extra quart and likely length dropped my engine oil temps 30* when cruising.