Sounds like the community would rather pay a few extra bucks and get something that works the first time, and not have to pay for lost coolant and shipping costs down the road from a leaky rad
Champion Radiators for the IDI
- Thread starter tbrumm
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Oh I agree.
Seems to depend on the price point. Many here go for the cheap factor.
About $400 seems to be the high point for a radiator that most are willing to spend.
Is it worth more to get one that's been tested? Damn right, but most aren't willing to buy once cry once. Lol
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Seems to depend on the price point. Many here go for the cheap factor.
About $400 seems to be the high point for a radiator that most are willing to spend.
Is it worth more to get one that's been tested? Damn right, but most aren't willing to buy once cry once. Lol
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HS108
Diesel Newb
true words
Im glad I saw this post, I was always planning on getting one, but Ill splurge and get a mishimoto
tbrumm
Full Access Member
The reviews on the mishimoto aren't all great either. Do we know where the Mishimoto radiators are made? I am guessing China as well.
X2 on mishimoto issues, and don’t forget Rodney red is in the hall of shame...
For those interested I started a thead on the group buy https://www.oilburners.net/threads/official-bell-radiator-group-buy.82233/unread
For those interested I started a thead on the group buy https://www.oilburners.net/threads/official-bell-radiator-group-buy.82233/unread
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Nobody likes the cost of lost coolant, lost time and lost effort. Of course, nobody really wants to pay $800 for a radiator either. I originally started this thread way back when my copper/brass oem radiator was giving up the ghost, and wanted some feedback on Champion radiators from OB members. I ended up buying a 3 row Champion radiator because it seemed quite a few people were having pretty good luck with the 3 row core radiators in the IDI. Again, my three row went 4 years before leaking. I updated this thread so that others might get some information on the longevity of the first Champion radiator I installed, and get (what I had hoped) my positive experience with the newer 4 row core radiator that Champion brought out sometime after I purchased the 3 row. While I have spent coolant, time and effort on two faulty 4 row core Champion radiators now, I would still not buy an $800 radiator - it just ain't happening. I also spent coolant, time and effort on the brass copper oem radiator before I pulled the plug on that, so I kept that oem unit going longer than I probably should have. So, when it comes time that you need a replacement radiator for the IDI(and you will eventually need one), you basically have two choices:1.)the cheaper radiators that the parts stores sell and the cheaper radiators like the Champion, and 2.) an expensive radiator like a Rodney Red or, if you can find one, an aftermarket copper brass radiator. There really isn't a choice in between the two. Of the "cheaper" radiators, the Champion certainly seemed to be better made than the parts store radiators with the plastic tanks. Now, I will have to say that the eBay seller that I purchased the 4 row core radiator (All Aluminum Radiators) has been great to work with through these two failed radiators. With the first one, they called Champion and got them to ship a new radiator out right away. With this second failed radiator, they refunded the purchase price of the radiator in full. They also called Champion, explained what was going on, and Champion is shipping me a new 3 row core radiator to me (to replace my original 3 row Champion that leaked and started this whole saga) free of charge. Why the 3 row? I think Champion has a problem with the brazing between the core and the bottom tank on the 4 row, that may not have existed on the 3 row. The tanks on both appear to be the same size - it is just that Champion has added another row to the core which brings the core almost out the edge of the tanks. This is just my amateur hypothesis. Otherwise, maybe these two radiators have failed because I don't know what the heck I am doing and I accidently mounted them in the truck backwards. So, when the new 3 row radiator arrives, I will spend a couple of hours, and a little more coolant, and hopefully get on with my life. Otherwise, the next step may be a parts store radiator. @towcat seems to be having good luck with his so far.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Likely Japan.
They claim every unit is leak checked twice.
They also say every radiator has 7.25 fins per inch.
Also have a supposed lifetime warranty with accident protection.
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They claim every unit is leak checked twice.
They also say every radiator has 7.25 fins per inch.
Also have a supposed lifetime warranty with accident protection.
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i have three of the Murray/O'riley's radiators in service. Two if fleet trucks and one in my own rig.
Longest in-service unit is three years and no negative issues to report.
Longest in-service unit is three years and no negative issues to report.
I see the situations you all have concerning radiators. I found the original radiator in my 88 F250 to be a 300 dollars to be gone through, I simply cannot afford it. So I see the comments concerning Champion Radiators, the 4 core i have found to be reasonable in price though I am still reading this Blog and researching online. my question is, if i just go ahead and purchase the champion 4 core, will i have to go with electric fans or will there be enough room to use my "new " fan clutch? Water pump is out, new one not installed yet as well as the thermostat housing and mechanical fuel pump. any advice will be appreciated.
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tbrumm
Full Access Member
The Champion 4 row core radiator is not really any "thicker" than the 3 row core radiator. I believe the tanks on both are the same thickness. The 4 row core just brings the core right out to the outside edges of the tanks, whereas the 3 row core sits "inside" the edges of the tanks a bit. If you are running a stock IDI fan clutch and fan, it will fit and you will not need electric fans.
As for myself, I solved my problems with leaking 4 row core Champion radiators by going back to a 3 row core Champion radiator, and no leaks so far! Personally, I will not buy another 4 row core Champion radiator ever again, but others have been having good luck with them.
I read your radiator adventure. The 3 core seems to be what I should do after reading through the whole blog. A friend hooked me up with an old radiator guy today and he told me 120 dollars he will do the job. I am going to try that Avenue first!
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DMerino7
Registered User
Did it include the trans cooler nipples(or whatever theyre called)?
tbrumm
Full Access Member
The Champion Radiators do come with brass hose barbs to install in the trans cooler in the lower radiator tank. On the older Champion radiators, these barbs were crappy aluminum ones, but the latest Champion radiators I purchased had nice, machined brass hose barbs.
Ok folks, It was very hot here in Yuma AZ, so I did not finish the work on my truck until a few weeks ago, the cooling is fine. Replaced radiator, water pump, thermostat, and while I was at it I replaced the mechanical fuel pump also, and warming it up after the first start up I had to replace a heater hose, I thought all was well.. New problem now!! after the initial start up the oil pressure is just fine (mind you I have only the stock dash gauge) so anyway, I drive down the road and come to an idle at stop sign, the oil pressure gauge pegs down below the "L" mark and the RPMs appear to be at around 100, the sound of the motor seems correct (no stalling or anything) it also seems to have Transmission Chatter on acceleration but the oil pressure comes back up to near normal when RPMs pass 1000 . the truck did not do this prior. I limit the drive to work and back purely because I worry about the Oil Pressure drop, adjusting the idle screw did not seem to work. what do I do?? Please advise!
