Champion Radiators for the IDI

[snicklas]

Sounds electrical to me. If it sounds ok, and if the actual rpms don’t match the tach, then you likely have a ground issue.

If was actually doing what the gauges say, you would hear it. The engine would be running so slowly and rough, and the lifters would chatter. 80’s and 90’s Ford electrical wasn’t the greatest when new. You likely have a loose connection due to the work you did, or even just sitting.....

To be sure, put an aftermarket gauge in. If it stays solid when the factory goes wonky, you know it’s electrical.

 

[ABNORDY]

That is actually what I was thinking. During the repair of the truck, I did find the Engine Coolant Temp/Temperature Thermostatic Switch electrical connection blades to be crushed, and actually got one in the mail today! Don't know if that could affect this gripe electrically, but who knows.

 

[catbird7]

Well boys, I can take a lot however I'm crying UNCLE! That freakin replacement champion SOB did it again! It blew a leak between top tank & the cores on return trip home from VA hunting trip. Made one hellava mess under the hood again.........Lucky I found an auto parts store and the guy advised me to try a bottle of "Blue Devil" radiator & block seal. I have zero experience with this product (until now), and not a fan of band-aid fixing anything however given the circumstances it was my best choice. Dumped a bottle in rad along with two gallons of antifreeze and had no issues over the remaining 100 miles back home. After arriving home, I took one of my original FORD brass rads to a local shop for complete re-furbish and I'm saying good bye champion forever..... I have zero complaints with their customer service however the product simply doesn't meet my expectations. I've not contacted them yet and hoping they'll refund original price, irregardless I'm DONE, going back to original equipment!

 

[Thewespaul]

Dang. I was hoping you finally had this one gone and done, I wonder if your core support is cracked and is flexing causing the leak? Ive installed countless champions and have had only a few issues, but cant go wrong with oem!

 

[catbird7]

Core support is new (well four years old), zero rust.

 

[Thewespaul]

Well the shop truck's core was cracked when I last pulled the engine, its a south texas truck with no rust but it had cracked vertically from fatigue, I repaired it and havent had any issues but still have seen a number of rust free core supports that are cracked, just food for thought. Id flush that blue glue real good before the new rad goes in, have you got an estimate to rebuild the original? Estimates I have gotten in the past have varied dramatically between shops

 

[catbird7]

I'll know price tonight and report back. Any experience with blue devil? I'm guessing the turn-around on getting re-core done is not going to fit with my (deer hunting) schedule. I'm planning another 300 plus mile trip for this Friday and unsure if the liquid repair will hold? On-line reviews sound good, however it would be nice to hear some "real people" from this forum reply with actual user data...

 

[Thewespaul]

Ive never used it myself and never will, Id rather run the engine without water. Ive rebuilt a few engines that had some of the stuff in it and it was a nightmare to clean the water jackets and oil coolers up. Oil cooler was completely clogged, and everything had a layer of blue cement on it but you do what you gotta do... Maybe run a parts store rad for the time being?

 

[catbird7]

I was amazed it worked, the viscosity was similar to water, not thick or clumpy. Looked like blue gatorade, transparent blue. When I got home the rad was dry and sitting over night nothing leaked out.

 

[79jasper]

Might as well replace the heater core at this point....

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[tbrumm]

Sorry to hear about your radiator, Catbird, but thank you for posting up your experiences so others will know. My 3 row core champion is still working fine (knock on wood).Getting a refurbished OEM brass/copper radiator should resolve your radiator issues for a very long time.

 

[catbird7]

Radiator Shop disassembled both of the original four core FORD radiators I provided them and found one was in remarkably good condition. They cooked & cleaned radiator plus pressure tested for leaks. Price, $159.00. They also gave me prices for re-coring. New 4-core $600.00, New 5- core $750.00. Last evening I flushed the cooling system with two bottles of Blue Devil pn#00204, and new rad will go in tonight. Emailed Champion, however no report back regarding their warranty or what they're willing to do. I'll also follow-up with that information after they contact me. This has been a horrible & expensive experience and made a total mess under the hood. Hope you all have better luck.

 

[catbird7]

Champion was great on the first replacement, not so on this one! I've been emailing for nearly a month with no reply! I'll keep you all posted with out come.... FYI, factory rad has performed flawless since install.

 

[Clb]

+1 on no snake oil.
The rad shops (if ya can find a real one) get it done .
Oe rebuilds rock.
Second choice would be flow cooler built all brass, outta southern calif.

 

[robw]

In my research I've found brass to be a better metal for cooling, but aluminum much more ductile, allowing more fins (= more cooling), in the end it comes down to R&D on the manufacturers part, which almost always translates to high quality aluminum radiators performing better than brass.
YMMV.