C6 to ZF5 swap

JackJ217

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Just got started last night on pulling the c6 out of my truck. This may be a dumb question, but what do I do with the vacuum lines going from the injection pump to the trans? Can I just cap them off at the pump, or would I need to remove the VRV?
 

Nero

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Take the vrv off, it will no longer be needed
 

franklin2

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I left my VRV in place. Doesn't hurt anything. You do need to cap the vacuum supply line that runs to it. if you want to make a little money, offer the VRV in the classifieds, they are hard to find in working condition.
 

IDIBOBS

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I gotta say again. If you’re having to ask this question do you really have the skills and understanding to be swapping the trans? I’d remove the vrv and all related tuning all the way to the tree.
 

JackJ217

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I left my VRV in place. Doesn't hurt anything. You do need to cap the vacuum supply line that runs to it. if you want to make a little money, offer the VRV in the classifieds, they are hard to find in working condition.
Sounds good, thanks for the help.
 

JackJ217

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I think that you'll be just fine despite the previous negativity. I feel that you had a valid question. If you aren't sure, asking is just fine.
My thoughts exactly. That’s what forums are for, anyway. No wonder people are discouraged from trying “difficult” projects when they’re met with responses like that in a place that’s supposed to be helpful.
There’s a lot that goes into swapping a trans, and this is my first diesel :dunno Just want to make sure I don’t skip any important steps.
 

Nero

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My thoughts exactly. That’s what forums are for, anyway. No wonder people are discouraged from trying “difficult” projects when they’re met with responses like that in a place that’s supposed to be helpful.
There’s a lot that goes into swapping a trans, and this is my first diesel :dunno Just want to make sure I don’t skip any important steps.
Hey hey hey... The FIRST most IMPORTANT STEP... Is turn the engine off. Then maaayyyybe disconnect the batteries.
But the most absolute important step, and i cannot stress this enough.... crack one open of your favorite choice beverage.

Oh and take off the flex plate spacer lol, but you got this. Its a pretty straightforward swap.
 

JackJ217

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Hey hey hey... The FIRST most IMPORTANT STEP... Is turn the engine off. Then maaayyyybe disconnect the batteries.
But the most absolute important step, and i cannot stress this enough.... crack one open of your favorite choice beverage.

Oh and take off the flex plate spacer lol, but you got this. Its a pretty straightforward swap.
Shoot… forgot to shut off the engine. What now? :idiot:
 

JackJ217

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Pulled the trans out this evening :rock:
I’m not seeing a flexplate spacer on the end of the crank??? There was an 1/8” thick ring between the flexplate bolts and the flexplate itself, is that the spacer everybody speaks of? Unless I’m just not seeing the joint between the spacer and the end of the crank

Attached are pictures of the flexplate, 1/8” thick ring and the end of the crank
 

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IDIBRONCO

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No. They did use that retaining ring, but so did most of the others. I believe that the E4OD flexplates that used it were lighter and thinner than yours. My guess is that it was used to bring the ring gear teeth back to the same place as the other flywheel/flexplates had them at. This is a E4OD specific flexplate that I picked up as part of a parts buy last spring. It's not a very good picture, but it's the only one that I have. This is the only flexplate that used the spacer.
 

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JackJ217

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Gotcha. Thanks! One large step closer to getting this rig back on the road. I may need to solve the missing floor problem first though…
 

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