86 6.9 IDI C6 4x4 - VRV Nipple Snapped on Injection Pump

[jgroover9]

Hey all,

This is my first post but I have been reading this form for a year now. Appreciate all of your help on different topics.

I have an 86 F250 6.9 C6 Auto 4x4 stock no turbo. Injection pump went out a couple months ago, and I just removed the pump and injectors. Am going to send them to be rebuilt by Moose Diesel. A couple things I noticed when removing...

1) One of the nipples on the RVR is snapped in half - the snapped off half is stuck in the vacuum fitting.
2) The red plastic on the accelerator cable cracked to pieces when I was removing it.

My transmission was already shifting pretty rough (late shifts, and extremely hard when it does) but it was driveable with no issues. A couple questions.. Is there an easy fix for the RVR without finding a new one? I saw there is a new mechanical version sold by Accurate Diesel, but after talking to him it sounds like it won't fit without pulling the transfer case out/cutting into the crossmember. Plus at that price point, its almost worth doing a T19 swap.

Would it be worth it to just swap to a T-19? What would yall look for when inspecting a used one off Facebook Marketplace? Theres a used one of a 6.9 for sale with the flywheel, crossmember, and transfer case for ~400 near me. I've looked for diesel ZF-5s but they are hard to come by in southeast Texas. Budget is a little tight since I am already getting a new IP and redoing the fuel system (planning to add an electric lift pump, put a new water separator on it, either clean or buy new tanks, and redo the supply/return lines from the tank).

Additionally, do y'all have a good recommendation for an accelerator cable replacement? A couple pictures attached.

Goal for this truck is to be able to tow my car when I have to move around January. Look forward to hearing from yall!
Josh

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[IDIBRONCO]

1) One of the nipples on the RVR is snapped in half - the snapped off half is stuck in the vacuum fitting.

I've seen that before. Back in those days, it was easy enough to find used, working ones though.

The red plastic on the accelerator cable cracked to pieces when I was removing it.

Common.

Would it be worth it to just swap to a T-19?

My opinion is yes.

What would yall look for when inspecting a used one off Facebook Marketplace?

In your case where you'd be buying from a stranger, you can't tell the internal condition without a test drive. Be sure to look the bellhousing over really well. They have a tendency to crack after all of these years. Maybe you can pull the fill plug and check for metal flakes with your finger. The drain plug would be more accurate, buy the seller may not be willing to let you drain the fluid. Also check over the adapter at the back of the transmission where the transfer case attaches. I believe that it's aluminum like the bellhousing is and those can crack too.

Additionally, do y'all have a good recommendation for an accelerator cable replacement?

Maybe not the best way, but I just broke the red plastic into little pieces and worked them out of the spring on mine. The cable still works fine without the red plastic cover.
Finally, welcome to the cool kid's club.

 

[Jesus Freak]

You'll never go wrong with T-19 or a ZF-5 on these engines. I'm pretty sure I got one of those valves on one of my extra pumps if you can't find one. And yeah, the red plastic thingy is broken on everybodys truck except @Clb and @FrozenMerc trucks, because they drive unicorns.

 

[Black dawg]

If you can find a piece of plastic tubing that fits inside that nipple, you can repair it that way.

 

[Rocknit4x4]

I replaced my accelerator cable - wasn’t hard but it did seem to be just a little bit longer. Ended up using a piece of crushed copper tubing at the pedal to take up the extra slack in the cable. Worked great since - I just bought one at autozone I think.

 

[ihc1470]

If the valve is still working with a little luck you can probably repair what you have. Go to a parts store and get a vacuum nipple the correct od. Turn one end down in a lathe if you have access to one until it is close to the size of the inside hole stopping at a number drill size that will match the OD that you now have. Then drill the broken nipple on the valve with the same bit. With any luck and if you have the sizes correct the new nipple will push into the hole. A light coating of JB weld will seal it.

I did this repair on a 75 F250 with factory A/C when a nipple broke on the switch that controls the vents. Probably 15 years ago.

 

[david85]

I've repaired plastic ports like this using short lengths of steel brake tubing. Carefully drill out the plastic on both sides of the crack to fit the steel, then slide it back on with some epoxy. Good for another 30+ years. If brake tubing isn't the ideal size, you can go to a hobby shop (or Amazon, for that matter), and find a smaller, thin-walled tube that will fit better.

 

[FrozenMerc]

You'll never go wrong with T-19 or a ZF-5 on these engines. I'm pretty sure I got one of those valves on one of my extra pumps if you can't find one. And yeah, the red plastic thingy is broken on everybodys truck except @Clb and @FrozenMerc trucks, because they drive unicorns.

Nope, it was broken on mine too, until I replaced the cable assembly.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Nope, it was broken on mine too, until I replaced the cable assembly.

But you took the time to fix it! Lol

 

[FrozenMerc]

But you took the time to fix it! Lol

I had no choice. The cable stop at the pedal came off, and it took a vice grip to get me home....

 

[jgroover9]

Hey all, thanks for the solid advice. Just sent the pump/injectors off for rebuild yesterday - now its time to redo the whole fuel sending/return system!

I think I will try the steel brake line or plastic tubing fix for the vacuum pump just to get her on the road again... Then i will start looking at a T-19 swap.

While I have everything out for the fuel system (IP/injectors removed, bed off the truck to access tanks) - I am planning on the following: replacing all supply/return lines with braided nylon, installing the NAPA 3121 fuel water separator, cleaning out and or replacing the tanks. Is there anything else I should take a look at? Cleaning the FSV? Upgrading to an electric lift pump? Valve cover or intake gaskets?

Rear tank is looking like it is past worth trying to clean when the cost of a new one is only $150... Haven't drained the front one yet but I suspect its a little cleaner. Previous owner told me the rear tank didn't work so I never used it. About 8 months later I realized it did work! The in tank pumps were both replaced in the fall.

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[jgroover9]

All, just wanted to give an update.

Finished installing the new injection pump, injectors, rear tank, and supply/return lines yesterday. Moose Diesel rebuilt the pump/injectors and I must say, they were great to work with. I sent the pump/injectors in and had rebuilt ones back in less than two weeks. I also added a water separator from NAPA (housing #4309, filter #3123) inline before the lift pump, and resealed the valve covers. I used Gates Barricade fuel lines from NAPA and bought the new rear tank from RockAuto. Here are some pictures and videos.

Picked out the plastic in the accel cable like yall suggested. I have not fixed the VRV nipple yet, but it honestly didn't seem to effect the driveability of the truck much.

Before

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Before after removing the IP and injectors

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After replacing valve cover gaskets, repainting valve covers, and cleaning the valley pan

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After re-installing the injectors and injection pump

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After installing all supply lines, the fuel filter, and adding a new water separator (bracket is $10 from Tractor supply. Just cut to the size needed)

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And a video of it idling/running. I think she needs a tune up.. A lot of black smoke when accelerating.

Idling: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L2UtZ9oPZ-6dZ8NSbsVVs1N8ryHTy5M-/view?usp=sharing
Driving: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mSJhHg1k4xekX2vvsgVJHk_9kq_C7nmQ/view?usp=sharing