Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Dirtleg, Nov 19, 2017.
Ah... I am connecting the dots now. GPX I have heard of!
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So today I drove back home to the Roanoke area from Montgomery Alabama in the truck.
Houston we have a problem.
While climbing the hills on I-75 heading north from Chattanooga my torque converter slipped while locked up in OD. Then a little later it slipped some more. By the time I reached Bristol it was slipping regularly on the steeper grades.
I've known it was on the weak side since I got the truck back on the road but it's not slipped before.
I suppose the solenoid could be intermittently unlocking and need to check that before making any decisions on what's wrong but my gut tells me it's tranny time.
If I've got to pull it I intend to go through it thoroughly and upgrade any hard parts that are deemed insufficient. Also going with a triple disc converter.
And I noticed what I thought was a metallic tapping on the drivers side so thinking I'll pull the valve covers and inspect the valvetrain too.
It's hell catching up on maintenance when one of these things has been neglected as long as this one was.
ouch, it always sucks when something big like that is failing but it sounds like it was no surprise. but at least you got it home safe and can plan what to do next.
Yeah I really need to do a proper troubleshooting on it. Check the solenoid connector, pull and reset the codes and then see it it's still doing it.
Didn't have any shudder when it slipped, and yes I know what that feels like, so it may just be electrical. Hoping that's the case and the clutch was just locking and unlocking.
But knowing what I want to do in the near future building it stronger is going to happen at some point anyway.
There’s a good tech article on installing the transgo tugger (think that’s right) kit. @trackspeeder is probably your go-to for auto trans related issues/suggestions.
I can understand this one. I'm playing the same game with mine.
That makes the three of us...
Probably all of us... Unless you bought it brand new off the lot..
Feel your pain, I was having issues with mine, got lucky and just needed a flex plate and did a few minor upgrades while I was there.
As I never received the rear shocks I ordered 3 weeks ago, after much diligence on my part and being ignored by the seller I was able to get a refund on them. So today I ordered them again, from a different seller and actually saved $40 from my original purchase. Should be here next week.
Also ordered a new tach sensor. Once that is installed I'll start troubleshooting my trans issues. No sense trying to troubleshoot when one of the critical inputs to the control system is flaky.
Going to start collecting brake parts for my front upgrade here soon as well.
Wish I had the time to develop a big brake kit of my own but I do not unfortunately.
Today is transmission troubleshooting day. Found the tag on the transmisson verifying it is a Ford reman. From when I do not know but at least 12 years ago. So there's a good chance it has all the updated internals already.
Well it looks like I have a bad solenoid pack in my transmission. Pulled the harness plug and it has ATF in it. Bummer.
Also noticed I'm now leaking a small amount from the tail shaft seal on the transfer case as well. Yeah!
So now I'm starting to think about the expense of this transmission. Things I'll need to fix it.
New torque converter. ~$800
Solenoid Pack ~$200
Transgo Tugger. ~$120
Rebuild Kit. ~$400-1500 (Lots of options here) will depend on how much is bad inside.
So roughly $1500-2500 in parts alone. All of a sudden I'm wondering what a ZF5 swap would run? Would I need new driveshafts?
Probably end up staying with the Auto on this truck but curious anyhow.
In other news I did get the new tach sensor installed so at least the tach works properly now.
It’s a really pretty simple swap, cost of the transmission, flywheel, clutch, slave setup and driveshafts are the main costs to consider. I really just buy a parts truck when doing these conversions, usually comes out about the same cost as piecing it together and it makes it less of a hassle imo. The e40d can be made to perform well, but most people know where my preference lies with these trans...
Btw, I may have missed it but have you gotten the moose pump installed yet?
No not yet. Too many other things on my plate. And besides it's running well just low on power relative to the moose so not been a major need.
Did some more dinking around in my shop and actually put my hand on the moose. Stamped on the mounting flange it says CDI -110. CDI is obviously Conestoga so I'm thinking 110 would be the output.
This one was done in October-November of 2007 so who knows as the moose program was in it's infancy at the time.
Still I'm wanting to get it back on the truck. Soon I hope.
Well today is Moose day.
Background, in October/November of 2007 I had a Moose pump built (thanks @Agnem). I didn't actually install the turbo until August of 2008 at which time the Moose went on.
Truck ran well and had lots of power and it was that way in 2012 when the truck was nonlonger in my possession.
If you've followed this thread you know the history and drama and I won't repeat it here. If not go read the beginning of the thread.
About 2 years ago the ex (who had the truck) asked if I had a pump because the IP (Moose) was leaking. I did and gave her a low mileage (25k) stock International reman I had taken off when I installed the Moose. But I required that she return the Moose to me.
It was definitely leaking as it had spit the advance piston out. This was possible because the advance arm was broken just above the pivot shaft.
Here is where the advance piston is supposed to be. Notice the open hole, hence the fuel leakage.
I had gotten a replacement advance arm from Wes some time back but never installed it. Today of course I forgot to bring it with me. Figures.
But from the back of my mind it vaguely remebered I at one time had an old IP sitting around in a box. Amazingly I was able to locate it in my shop.
Here is the old spare IP. No idea if it's good or not.
So I robbed the advance arm off the old IP. But it needed some adjusting on the calibration screw to match what was on the Moose pump.
The longer threads are the Moose shorter threads the old IP.
More to come.
I adjusted the old advance arm to match the Moose and loctited it in place. Moose eas set at 4.21mm in depth.
Then I stole the advance piston from the old IP and installed it in the Moose.
Then I reinstalled the advance arm. Here it is cleaned up and ready to be swapped in.
So now it's time to remove the stock pump from the engine. A before picture.
That's where were at right now. Going to remove the pump and swap the Moose in. Wish me luck. I'll report back when I'm finished. May be a while as I'm not that quick with these things.
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