Good luck friend!
Big Ugly goes to rehab
- Thread starter Dirtleg
- Start date
If the advance piston popped out make sure the spring is still there that goes behind the piston. There are two different advance pistons so hopefully the one from the spare pump is the correct one for you... I believe the width is the same so it should seal, but the height is different. I’ll see if I can find two different ones in the parts pile to show the differences
Dirtleg
Full Access Member
Well we are now Moosed. Pump went in without issue and truck fired right up after bleeding the lines out. 4, 10 seconds cranks and the lines were bled. Tightened the lines at the injectors and fired right up. No leaks that I"m aware of yet. Checked the area of the advance piston and no fuel dripping there.
And as far as the Advance piston goes I actually found the Moose one and saved it when cleaning my valley pan when I redid the AC. I didn't know what it was at the time but do now. And yes the spring was still there.
Good thing I saved my IP wrench that I made years ago.
It's an IP party. Now what to do with the others. Hmmm.
Ready for a Moose.
And finally all back together.
Got an hours drive home from my shop so will report back on how it's running. Thinking I may need more turbo soon.
And as far as the Advance piston goes I actually found the Moose one and saved it when cleaning my valley pan when I redid the AC. I didn't know what it was at the time but do now. And yes the spring was still there.
Good thing I saved my IP wrench that I made years ago.
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It's an IP party. Now what to do with the others. Hmmm.
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Ready for a Moose.
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And finally all back together.
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Got an hours drive home from my shop so will report back on how it's running. Thinking I may need more turbo soon.
Sweet!
Dirtleg
Full Access Member
Okay update. Aside from the dragging brake issue I asked for help with earlier the Moose is a success. I need to time it as it seemed a little retarded. Boost came in earlier but EGT's are much easier to get too high. In fact with the other pump I couldn't get them over 1000 ever. Now if I give it too much pedal they climb to 1100 real quick. Would go higher but I backed out since I'm not feeling that lucky. (See brakes thread)
I need to re-calibrate the FIPL as transmission is shifting to too high a gear too early in the rev range.
Overall there's definitely more power. Much more.
Next I think I need to wrap my crossover pipe to help the little turbo spool better.
Anyone have insight on how to squeeze more boost out of the factory turbo? Right now I need timing corrected. Definitely need to install my Intercooler now. And what else?
I need to re-calibrate the FIPL as transmission is shifting to too high a gear too early in the rev range.
Overall there's definitely more power. Much more.
Next I think I need to wrap my crossover pipe to help the little turbo spool better.
Anyone have insight on how to squeeze more boost out of the factory turbo? Right now I need timing corrected. Definitely need to install my Intercooler now. And what else?
How much boost are you seeing right now? What rpm do you see boost start to build? Have you adjusted or disconnected the wastegate?
130cc is a lot for that turbo even with the intercooler I think you will still have egt problems.
130cc is a lot for that turbo even with the intercooler I think you will still have egt problems.
Dirtleg
Full Access Member
I saw 5 lbs in OD at 1800 rpms. With my FIPL improperly adjusted line pressures were too low and I could hear/feel the transmission struggling so I didn't try to go higher for fear of damage to the tranny.
In 3rd on a hill I saw 7 (not near full throttle) at about 1000f on the EGT gauge. Before the pump swap those numbers would be 3 and 5 rather than 5 and 7. EGT's about 100-150 less before the moose.
I know I need more air so what next?
FYI I put a new Garret center section in when I added the turbo so it's only got about 12,000 miles on it.
Moose only has about 5k on it right now.
What injectors do you have and how many miles do they have? Your timing is either way off or you have some boost leaks. It could be your wastegate is too loose too, so either try tightening it up or plugging the hose to see if that affects your boost level.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
NEVER, NEVER, EVER get rid of one of those! If you do, it will bite you in the backside some day.
I hope you put your line clamps back on. I noticed they were missing in the before picture.
It makes sense your egts were up. You increased your fueling significantly. The question is what’s your smoke situation? I can tell you that I need close to 20 psi to fully digest my moose pump and that’s not with a factory turbo.
Do get it timed. You know the program. Congrats on your truck getting back some of its testicular fortitude.
It makes sense your egts were up. You increased your fueling significantly. The question is what’s your smoke situation? I can tell you that I need close to 20 psi to fully digest my moose pump and that’s not with a factory turbo.
Do get it timed. You know the program. Congrats on your truck getting back some of its testicular fortitude.
Dirtleg
Full Access Member
Injectors are B codes I believe. Got them pressure matched from typ4. They probably have about 12k on them.
Yeah timing is definitely off. I'll adjust that before I go driving too much more.
I'll play with the wastegate settings. It's not currently plugged. I'd eventually like to switch to an external wastegate when I do upgrade the turbo.
I never get rid of any tools. That daid they do seem to walk away often. Was just glad I still had it and could put my hands on it.
Yeah about those line clamps....
When the Ex's boyfriend had the pump swapped out those were not put back on. I have the rear one on the passenger side installed but not the others. One more thing I need to find.
As to the EGT's when I ran this setup with the Moose before I did not have such high egt's as I do now. I'm sure it's mainly timing and the fact the truck was staying in too high a gear due to an improperly adjusted FIPL. If I'd had more time available today I'd have timed it and adjusted the FIPL before coming home.
I'm thinking about getting a T67 for this thing. I wants mo' air. Map looks just about right for this too.
But first need to get what I've got running properly.
Next installment.
FordGuy100
Registered User
T67's and the like are old school. I'd try to fit a BW S300 based turbo imo.
It’s a step above the t04e h3 turbo, but a base model s300 will be much better. The sxe line is the cats meow right now
Dirtleg
Full Access Member
You make a valid point. I default to the Garrett line because I'm very familiar with what's what. I've looked at the BW stuff but not invested the time to learn the maps, airflow, sizing etc.
Guess I've got some research to do before making a decision.
Thanks for mentioning that.
Dirtleg
Full Access Member
One last update before I go on my trip this weekend and effectively forget I own a truck for 4 days. (Barber Vintagefest)
I adjusted the FIPL this morning. It was at .65V at idle prior to. I set it at 1.22V at idle. At max throttle it reads 4.25V.
Ran an errand and it's way better. EGT's are still higher than before at heavy throttle but not near as bad as yesterday since the transmission was in the proper gear.
And related to the EGT temps, at normal cruising speeds they are no higher than with the stock calibration pump. But it's very hilly here and 6-7% grades are common. They're usually only a 1/4 to 1/2 mile long but you know pretty quick if you're going to have to back out of it before reaching the top. Downshifting is also a reasonable fix to that problem as well.
I adjusted the FIPL this morning. It was at .65V at idle prior to. I set it at 1.22V at idle. At max throttle it reads 4.25V.
Ran an errand and it's way better. EGT's are still higher than before at heavy throttle but not near as bad as yesterday since the transmission was in the proper gear.
And related to the EGT temps, at normal cruising speeds they are no higher than with the stock calibration pump. But it's very hilly here and 6-7% grades are common. They're usually only a 1/4 to 1/2 mile long but you know pretty quick if you're going to have to back out of it before reaching the top. Downshifting is also a reasonable fix to that problem as well.
