Auto C6 to Manual T-19 Swap

[Pino2234]

I have two 1986 Ford 6.9's both 4x4. The extended cab longbed is an F250 and has the T-19 manual. I want to take that set up and put it in my Crew Cab longbed F350 that has a C6.

Pepboys has an upgrade kit for the clutch to 12" wasnt sure if anyone has one.

I'm sure if the u-joints and yokes at the end of the transfer case is the same.

I'm not sure if the C6 and NP transfer case is as long as the T-19 w/ borgwarner transfer case are same length for fact of driveshaft modification.

I've been told the firewall flexes b/c of the master cylinder. Is there a fix for that or is true. So i can take notice when I swap components

I'm trying to be prepared b/c the crew cab is my everyday truck and my others are not tagged.

 

[Agnem]

The length should be the same. I'd be surprised if it were not. You can and should get the firewall reinforcement plate from Freebird01's website.

 

[bike-maker]

I just got a similar swap bolted together. Mine was a 7.3/ZF into a truck that was 460/c6. I left the BW 1345 and both driveshafts in place; just seperated it from the trans and let it hang out on the big rock guard that is directly underneath it. I used the Bw1345 because the Bw1356 out of my donor vehicle had a slip yoke instead of a bolt on.
As far as I know C6, T-19, and ZF5 4wd trannys are all the same length.
As far as the reinforcement plate, I used a small one out of the donor, big one would be nice but my ****** firewall has never had a clutch master cylinder trying to tweak it around. Mine had a block of plate that I simply unbolted.
The steering column / pedal assembly was pretty easy.
I ended up changing the fuel tanks because mine had the electric fuel pump built into the tanks. Not sure if yours has the same setup.

 

[Pino2234]

Thank Mel, I emailed him because there is an option for a small reinforcement plate but I am probably just going to buy the large one. You made it real easy for me. Like I said I just heard something about the firewall cracking.

Bike-maker, thats good that you said that they weren't too hard because the extra components were what I was concerned about, the pedals and master cylinder. So to mount the master cylinder you didnt have to drill anything?

 

[freebird01]

email replied

 

[franklin2]

I do know the c6 and the zf 4wd setups are not the same length. The zf setup is about 1 inch longer. Different rear driveshaft, different short pieces for the trannny support crossmember, although the front driveshaft was the same. This does not apply to your t19 swap, but just wanted to set the record straight.

 

[Sycostang67]

You will have to drill holes to mount the clutch master, but there are notches in the firewall to let you know where to drill. I did a C6 to ZF swap on my 85 and I used a 1.5" hole saw to make the big hole. I still had to open it up just a hair with a dremel and grinding stone, but it turned out really well.

 

[Pino2234]

Thanks firebird finally bought it. Getting closer to doing the swap.

 

[freebird01]

firebird? lol np your quite welcome. I will make sure it goes out with the mail tomorrow.

Thanks for the purchase

 

[bike-maker]

I used the ZF5 crossmember. The short, upper pieces used the existing holes. I had to drill 2 new holes on the bottom of the frame rail about 1 inch back from the existing holes. Is this the 1" difference that you were referring to Franklin2? Cause as far as I can tell, my transfer case is sitting in the same spot (or is it?). Drivelines remain unmolested.

On my truck, there was a block off plate for the clutch master cylinder bolted to the fire wall. I just unbolted the block off plate and bolted the master in place.

While you have the whole mess torn apart I would recommend doing the clutch linkage heim joint modification in the tech articles section.

 

[freebird01]

On my truck, there was a block off plate for the clutch master cylinder bolted to the fire wall. I just unbolted the block off plate and bolted the master in place.

the plate he purchased from me is not a requirement but it is a very good preventitve measure. these trucks are prone to cracking the firewall once the master cylinder or slave starts to wear out and more pressure gets exerted then normal to push in the clutch pedal. some will even do it right fromt he factory.

Ford had come out with a fix for this in the form of a reinforcement plate that ties in more of the firewall and puts a heavy plate there to stop the firewall from flexing.

if you check out my website, i posted a copy of the TSB from all-data that explains the fix.

Http://www.terrapinmfg.com

by the way Nick, your part went out in the mail today

 

[hesutton]

I'll be doing a C6 to "typ4 modified" 460 ZF5 swap one the F350 crew cab once I get some free time. I went with a SMF and 13 inch clutch kit from South Bend Clutch. I also bought a large firewall plate from Jason (freebird). I'll eventually get it done, but I'm also doing headgaskets, studs, oil cooler rebuild, and turbo at the same time.

I hope to have all this done in time for the Rally. I'd really like to have the crew cab so all my junk doesn't get rained on during the 8 hour trip up and back from Ill.

Heath

 

[franklin2]

I used the ZF5 crossmember. The short, upper pieces used the existing holes. I had to drill 2 new holes on the bottom of the frame rail about 1 inch back from the existing holes. Is this the 1" difference that you were referring to Franklin2? Cause as far as I can tell, my transfer case is sitting in the same spot (or is it?). Drivelines remain unmolested.

On my truck, there was a block off plate for the clutch master cylinder bolted to the fire wall. I just unbolted the block off plate and bolted the master in place.

While you have the whole mess torn apart I would recommend doing the clutch linkage heim joint modification in the tech articles section.

This must be typical American engineering or something. You had to drill holes in the lower part of your frame 1 inch to the rear? Mine already had the holes drilled.

The rear driveshaft was 1 inch shorter from the donor zf truck.

You where able to use the original top frame holes for the short upper crossmembers, because you used the factory zf upper crossmembers. They are offset more than the c6 upper crossmembers.

What I can't figure out is the front driveshaft. On my truck and the donor truck, they were both the same length. Maybe they can get away with this in the factory configuration, but I have a 4 inch lift, so my front driveshaft was stretched anyway, and had a little bit of vibration. Now that I have moved everything back, the front drivshaft is really short now, and it vibrates bad. I don't know if I can squeeze the double cardan joint in there, or still have to cut a little bit off the driveshaft length to make the double cardan fit.

 

[Pino2234]

haha sorry freebird. thanks, i just got the plate today. It looks like it'd be easy to figure out. I haven't taking apart my truck yet. This plate goes in the engine compartment right?

 

[bike-maker]

Front driveshafts out of both my trucks were identical. Can't compare the rear drive shaft because the trucks had different wheelbases.