ARP stud install and engine tear down

Jimmy Stewart

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And it does look very clean, under the valley pan and valve covers both. Makes me happy.
 

Jimmy Stewart

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Alright everyone, it’s been a while since my last post and since I’ve been able to work on truck. I’m an offshore fisherman and have been gone a lot. So I started the day like this.

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I removed the AC compressor and all the brackets.

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After that I got the driver’s side rocker arms and rods out. That’s as far as I got today but at least got something done. I believe once I get the exhaust manifold bolts out and head bolts, I will be ready to pull the head.

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austin92

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Also curious, does it matter if rockers and rods go back exactly the same?
Yes, they need to go back the exact way they came out. I use a small box, poke holes and label driver and passenger, front and rear. I hit the rockers with brake parts cleaner and write on them with a silver sharpie like 3E would mean cylinder 3 exhaust


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riphip

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The whole A/C - heater box only has like 4 screws holding it in. 2 at top in engine bay & 2 at bottom under the carpet
 

Jimmy Stewart

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You don’t need to keep track of the rockers because those early rockers belong in the bin not on an engine. Upgrade to the 7.3 rockers for a much more robust and reliable design.
What about the rods? Does anywhere sell new ones? Wouldn’t mind changing them since they’re out.
 

Jimmy Stewart

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Does anyone know which pattern I follow when loosening head bolts? Is it the line pattern reversed?
 

Jimmy Stewart

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Hope I didn’t just crack my driver’s side head. Loosened all bolts in reverse order, in quarter turn increments but like a ******* I totally forgot the bottom 4 on the exhaust side.
 

austin92

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You don’t need to keep track of the rockers because those early rockers belong in the bin not on an engine. Upgrade to the 7.3 rockers for a much more robust and reliable design.
Didn’t know there was a difference. What is it?


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Thewespaul

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Here’s a quote from an old thread on the topic.

“The old style use a aluminum pivot with a 'bridge' connecting the 2 sides. The later version uses steel pivots and has a flat plate at the bottom. The problem with the old style is that the aluminum wears, causing insufficient valve lift. You can also crack the pivots if you don't tighten the bolts evenly - the newer style is less susceptible to this problem since the pivots aren't rigidly connected.

I lost a new rebuilt engine at about 800 miles due to a cracked old style rocker pivot (suspect due to tightening unevenly) holding a valve open far enough that it started tapping the piston and eventually broke off. OTH, I made ~100 miles on the freeway doing 60 at 15k GCW with a 1/2" hole in a piston and the intake valve head wedged sideways into the seat....”

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/6-9-vs-7-3-rocker-arms.71939/
 

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