ARP stud install and engine tear down

[Jimmy Stewart]

Wow how long has water been in the cylinders?
Are the cylinder walls pitted?

It doesnt feel like theyre pitted but feels like there is some rust on the walls

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

Here is what it looks like after shop vac and wipe down.

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Definitely rust on the cylinder walls.

 

[Frstdiesel]

That looks better, but yeah still some rust.
Any ring ridge at the top of the cylinders?

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

That looks better, but yeah still some rust.
Any ring ridge at the top of the cylinders?

It doesnt feel like it. The only thing I feel on the walls is the rust but I just don’t know how they got that rusted. I just removed head bolts yesterday and the head today.

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

Is this normal?

 

[Thewespaul]

That’s just surface rust, lightly clean it up with some scotch bright and coat it with brake fluid.

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

That’s just surface rust, lightly clean it up with some scotch bright and coat it with brake fluid.

Thanks @Thewespaul. It’s just from sitting I guess...?

 

[Thewespaul]

Yep, that’s bare metal in the cylinder walls and block surface, so doesn’t take long for it to flash rust. When I’m porting heads I’ll oil each port before I start the next one, otherwise it will start rusting before I’m even done with the head.

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

Yep, that’s bare metal in the cylinder walls and block surface, so doesn’t take long for it to flash rust. When I’m porting heads I’ll oil each port before I start the next one, otherwise it will start rusting before I’m even done with the head.

Ok, I was getting worried

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

Also, is there anything else I should do or check once I have heads off? And what is the best way to clean the block surface where the heads sit?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Also, is there anything else I should do or check once I have heads off? And what is the best way to clean the block surface where the heads sit?

A wire wheel on a drill is a pretty good way.

When I’m porting heads I’ll oil each port before I start the next one, otherwise it will start rusting before I’m even done with the head.

I don't have that issue like you guys who live in Humidityville do. That doesn't happen to me here.

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

A wire wheel on a drill is a pretty good way.

I don't have that issue like you guys who live in Humidityville do. That doesn't happen to me here.

What about all the particles? Just shop vac when done?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I put clean rags or even paper towels over the lifter valley to keep as much of the crap out as possible. Then I'll either use air or a shop vac to clean out the cylinders when I'm done. Next, I'll pick up the rags/paper towels carefully to keep the crap on top of them. After removing these, I'll use another clean rag to wipe as much of the crap as I can get out of the lifter valley. After this is all done and the engine's running again, I'll change the oil after a few hundred miles. That will, hopefully, give the oil enough time to "wash" any remaining crap down into the oil pan to get caught in the filter. The last part may sound really bad, but remember that you'll clean out as much as you can by hand before you put things back together.

 

[Jimmy Stewart]

Ok guys, so it’s been quite a while since I’ve posted here and that’s because it’s been quite a while since I worked on my truck. Way too many projects. Anyways, I’ve got both heads off now. The passenger side cylinders hardly had any rust but the drivers side is now worse from sitting. Is a cylinder honing tool too much for rust removal? Will it cause any issues?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I think you should be ok as long as you don't get real carried away on the pistons. You could even try some steel wool by hand if it's just a light coating of rust.